Post by fossilbrain on Mar 24, 2010 0:01:40 GMT -5
DO NOT DO THIS unless you're willing to get weird with blade stability etc.; it's not meant for this (then again the WF isn't meant for what you're already doing, either ) -- new slab pics and additional "bewares" throughout thread, please read all before attempting and think twice!
Maybe the motor wasn't exactly rated for this, but like Scotty once said, "Evrr'rey grr'reat enginee'rr leaves a bit of wiggle rr'rooom on paper'rr..." (RIP James Doohan)
The old 7" blade on my WF came to about where the black circle is on the new, 10" blade (maybe a tad more at best). Rigid makes a 10" like the knotched HotDog I had that's no thicker than the WF's stock 7" (look for it vs. even Rigid's cheaper blade that is undoubtedly thicker, still) :
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I had to break the spot welds on the formed sheet metal feet/seat deal and bend them outward so it would sit higher so the blade won't hit bottom. Just high enough. The same water tray goes in and works fine:
You can see above where the circular, black rubber "feet" now face outward instead of being sat on... "unforming" or straightening these former bends on both sides make the saw sit higher; nothing else required -- slip ye olde, same water tray back in!
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Had to cut room on the table in front and back of the blade slot:
...somehow I measured, like, 5/8 too far in front yeah I know
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Also had to remove the blade safety/splash guard cage underneath by unscrewing it and then bending its spot welded supports back and forth until they snapped off. Had to cut room out of the steel sheet metal supporting the table (as well as the aluminum table). Shortened (sawed off and ground down) one table angle adjustment wing nut so it wouldn't hit the blade when screwed down tight (the one toward the back). Had to permanently remove top splash guard to fit new blade. Hit newly bared steel with cold galvanize zinc spray to inhibit rust.
I think that's about it. The table height still seems great, as it's still way above center and, after all, the idea was to get a taller cut.
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Cons --
1) do not attempt this at home unless you are the only person using it and/or all professional stunt persons using it are familiar with the fact it's no longer compliant with OSHA safety standards.
2) it flings water all over the bloody place until new splash guards are worked out, top and bottom. Esp. noticing flings excess water out immediately that's higher, now, than it needs to be, now that the level requirement is technically lower. A bottom, water-conserving guard is in order, but it does, at least, start "using" water at a more reasonable rate as soon as it's only contacting the most important, diamond-studed, outermost part of the blade, still carrying it throughout the cutting process for some time.
3) being 100% manual (vs. gravity fed or even nice stops of any kind) it's even more susceptible to "Catching" if your angle of a tall cut gets kitty-wumpous (not perfectly aligned with the blade) and can break the blade, machine, or even hurt you.
-----------------------------
Pros --
1) Slabs lots of pieces great that I've been saving because they were a bit too thick and I got sick of trying to "roll" much or cut from two or more sides.
-----------------------------
Hope this helps somebody who likes the end outcome as much as me
If you're unsure, just don't do it. I don't want you to ruin a perfectly good WF if you're happy with it.
(please see addition posts below)
Maybe the motor wasn't exactly rated for this, but like Scotty once said, "Evrr'rey grr'reat enginee'rr leaves a bit of wiggle rr'rooom on paper'rr..." (RIP James Doohan)
The old 7" blade on my WF came to about where the black circle is on the new, 10" blade (maybe a tad more at best). Rigid makes a 10" like the knotched HotDog I had that's no thicker than the WF's stock 7" (look for it vs. even Rigid's cheaper blade that is undoubtedly thicker, still) :
-----------------------------
I had to break the spot welds on the formed sheet metal feet/seat deal and bend them outward so it would sit higher so the blade won't hit bottom. Just high enough. The same water tray goes in and works fine:
You can see above where the circular, black rubber "feet" now face outward instead of being sat on... "unforming" or straightening these former bends on both sides make the saw sit higher; nothing else required -- slip ye olde, same water tray back in!
-----------------------------
Had to cut room on the table in front and back of the blade slot:
...somehow I measured, like, 5/8 too far in front yeah I know
-----------------------------
Also had to remove the blade safety/splash guard cage underneath by unscrewing it and then bending its spot welded supports back and forth until they snapped off. Had to cut room out of the steel sheet metal supporting the table (as well as the aluminum table). Shortened (sawed off and ground down) one table angle adjustment wing nut so it wouldn't hit the blade when screwed down tight (the one toward the back). Had to permanently remove top splash guard to fit new blade. Hit newly bared steel with cold galvanize zinc spray to inhibit rust.
I think that's about it. The table height still seems great, as it's still way above center and, after all, the idea was to get a taller cut.
-----------------------------
Cons --
1) do not attempt this at home unless you are the only person using it and/or all professional stunt persons using it are familiar with the fact it's no longer compliant with OSHA safety standards.
2) it flings water all over the bloody place until new splash guards are worked out, top and bottom. Esp. noticing flings excess water out immediately that's higher, now, than it needs to be, now that the level requirement is technically lower. A bottom, water-conserving guard is in order, but it does, at least, start "using" water at a more reasonable rate as soon as it's only contacting the most important, diamond-studed, outermost part of the blade, still carrying it throughout the cutting process for some time.
3) being 100% manual (vs. gravity fed or even nice stops of any kind) it's even more susceptible to "Catching" if your angle of a tall cut gets kitty-wumpous (not perfectly aligned with the blade) and can break the blade, machine, or even hurt you.
-----------------------------
Pros --
1) Slabs lots of pieces great that I've been saving because they were a bit too thick and I got sick of trying to "roll" much or cut from two or more sides.
-----------------------------
Hope this helps somebody who likes the end outcome as much as me
If you're unsure, just don't do it. I don't want you to ruin a perfectly good WF if you're happy with it.
(please see addition posts below)