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Post by christopherl1234 on Mar 29, 2010 23:56:55 GMT -5
So I am hoping one or some of you all can help me with this problem. While cleaning up my 10" Raytech trim saw I managed to pull a wire loose from the coil deal that is part of my automatic feed mechanism. I removed the black papery wrapper on the coil and soldered the hair like loose wire onto the wire from my motor, like the one that was still attached. Seemed to work fine and I was proud of myself for fixing what I broke Now here is the problem. The coil now gets extremely hot and starts to smoke. This is not normal and indicates to me that I have not repaired this back to its original state. The thin wire I soldered back to the motor wire was the only loose end I was able to find and was in the general vicinity and I made it look just like the other one. In the photos it look like the repaired wire is touching the coil but this really isn't the case and I also have since moved it just in case but got the same results. Here are a few Photos The area I repaired is the newer solder joint at the bottom Close up The motor still runs it just get too hot and like I said starts to smoke. I am afraid if I let it run to cut some small slabs I will end up burning up the motor. I hope someone can help me with some suggestions.
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drjo
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Post by drjo on Mar 30, 2010 6:08:52 GMT -5
A+ for trying!
There should only be two wires on the coil, one for each end. Is it possible that some of the coil wires may have gotten the coating scratched/melted off and are shorting together?, (get out your 10x loop) this would cause the symptoms you describe. If so, it may be possible to carefully separate the damaged wires and re-coat with clear acrylic nail polish.
Dr Joe
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Post by johnjsgems on Mar 30, 2010 15:16:24 GMT -5
You might try using a nonflammable contact cleaner and spray the coil. You might have flux in the windings or oils from your hands. They sometimes have a very small end wire that acts as a fuse in case motor overloads. You might have a motor problem.
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Post by christopherl1234 on Mar 31, 2010 11:44:48 GMT -5
Both of you alls suggestions make sense. I imagine that when I pulled the wire loose I could have broken some of the original coating and exposed coil wires and I am sure there is oil and flux all over the coils now. Thanks for all your help.
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Post by johnjsgems on Mar 31, 2010 19:21:53 GMT -5
By the way, that is a barbeque motor. Most companies use them on their smaller saws.
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drjo
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Post by drjo on Apr 1, 2010 20:04:24 GMT -5
By the way, that is a barbeque motor. Only if he leaves it on for a long time! Good sense of humor johnjsgems, We call' em rotisserie motors here ;D Dr Joe .
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drjo
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Post by drjo on Apr 1, 2010 20:09:56 GMT -5
But seriously johnjsgems, what are the rpm's of these drives?
I have rotisserie motors from 2.5 -10 rpm's
Dr Joe
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 1, 2010 20:31:20 GMT -5
Dr. Joe, I'll see if I can find out. They call them rotisserie motors here too but I couldn't come up with a spell check approved spelling. Of course it didn't like "barbeque" either. That's what I get for being pretty rather than smart.
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Post by christopherl1234 on Apr 1, 2010 22:23:42 GMT -5
I bet if I buy a replacement motor that is a rotisserie motor it would be a lot cheaper then if I tried to buy the exact same motor from a lapidary supply shop. Whatta you all think??
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drjo
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Post by drjo on Apr 2, 2010 7:31:39 GMT -5
That's called a sucker's bet!
Farberware has a heavy duty motor assembly and they show up at thrift stores frequently.
Dr Joe
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 2, 2010 21:09:47 GMT -5
Dr. Joe, Barranca uses a 4 rpm motor (3M098 Dayton). This may be secret, insider information so keep it between the two of us.
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drjo
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Post by drjo on Apr 2, 2010 22:36:05 GMT -5
Mums the work...they'll never get it out of me!
Dr Joe
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Post by christopherl1234 on Apr 7, 2010 23:48:27 GMT -5
Thank you everyone for your help. I found a rotisserie at a yard sale. I opened up the motor case and low and behold, what do I find? A motor that looks just like mine. Even is made by the same maker. Actually there were a few differences. The first was that the new motor had a couple more plates on it. Seemed to run the same speed though. The other thing was that it ran the opposite way. So I just had to flip the screw on my saw around and mount the motor on the opposite end of my saw. Had to run a little wire, but that was no big deal. Cut all day today. To say the least I am very pleased....thanks everyone for the tips
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drjo
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Post by drjo on Apr 8, 2010 4:27:59 GMT -5
Yea!!!
Good work, didn't think you'd find one so fast!
The extra "plates" will just give it a little more torque.
Dr Joe
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 8, 2010 6:56:38 GMT -5
I've never had one of those apart but if you can, flipping the coil the other way would reverse motor direction. I did it all the time on skeleton frame motors. It looks like that unit is riveted together rather than screws so maybe not field serviceable easily.
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drjo
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Post by drjo on Apr 8, 2010 11:11:48 GMT -5
Now that I think about it, all the "BBQ" motors I've had were shaded pole motors...every time you turn them on they turn what ever way they feel like. Hope it not in your case . Dr Joe .
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Post by christopherl1234 on Apr 8, 2010 22:28:11 GMT -5
you know my first thought was to take the motor apart and put the drive on the other side like my original motor but as you said ir is riveted and I did not have rivets long enough so I just mounted it on the opposite end and it works fine.
Yeah it only spins in one direction. It looks just like the original motor only thicker because of the plates and the square drive is on the flip side.
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