cerebrus1986
off to a rocking start
Member since March 2010
Posts: 16
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Post by cerebrus1986 on Apr 15, 2010 0:47:06 GMT -5
I have been tumbling for about 3 months now and i have pretty much thrown out my first batch due to pits and cracks forming that were not there when i started. I bought 10 dollars in agate and petrified wood from Erockshop.com and i have been using a 46-70 grit due to the extreme hardness of the agate rocks and i just checked them a week later and the grit is still intact and the rocks are just as sharp as ever. I am getting really depressed over this, i LOVE rocks soo much and it ticks me off that i cannot accomplish such a simple feat, i am about ready to smash my tumbler to pieces and scatter the parts in my shed. Why on gods green earth is it so hard for a lone person such as myself just to tumble some dain rocks. My moms boyfriend is getting awesome rocks and for some reason when i ask him how he does it he gives me a mind game or tells me to read the lortone professional tumbling book, I did and it got me nowwhere. I told him you can use dawn soap as a burnishing agent cause the people at lortone told me that and i read that on here as well but he just flashes that stupid lortone professional tumbling book under my nose and tells me i am FOS!! Should i just give it all up? ? WHY IS THIS SO DIFFICULT, I CAN GET THE SAME RESULTS FROM A WALMART TUMBLER, WHY IS THIS ANY DIFFERENT???
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Post by connrock on Apr 15, 2010 6:07:42 GMT -5
The Lortone instruction book is a pretty good way to start out and if you DO follow those instructions for the most part,you should at least make it through the 1st stage.
If your grit remains after a week or so the problem is how you're loading the barrel.
One of the main problems with a "newbie" is that they try to load the barrel with as many rocks as possible and don't have a mixture of different size rocks.
You MUST have AT LEAST 1/3 of the load being small pea size rocks.
The entire load CAN NOT be more then 1/2-1/3 of the barrels capacity.
I think the reason your moms friend is waving that Lortone book in your face is that you have NOT followed the "basics" of what it is telling you to do.
I will say that the instructions can be a little vague to a newbie but the basics ARE there!!
The only real fault in the instructions is that they lead one to think that 7-10 days of tumbling in the 1st stage is sufficient to continue to the next stages. The 1st stage (rough stage) can take as long as several months with grit changes every 7-10 days!!!
I suggest that the first thing you do is to start all over again with a load that has the correct mixture of different size rocks,grit and water.
It would be VERY helpful for us to help you if you can tell us what size you tumbler is too.
A small 1-1/2 lb barrel is much more critical to load properly then lets say a 6-15lb barrel would be.
The reason for this is that one tries to load a small barrel(1-1/2lb) with as much "good" rock as possible and only load the barrel with bigger rocks which can and WILL lead to mega frustrations.
Pump the brakes and start all over again and I am POSITIVE we here WILL get you on your way to the best polished rocks on the planet!
You mentioned how easy tumbling is,,,,,,,,,
Well MANY of us here started out LONG before the "computer age" and only had instruction books like the Lortone tumbler came with or some small book (more like a 20 page magazine) to try to get started at it.
Myself,,,,,,,,,,,,,Well after many years and tumbling between 1-2 tons of rocks (literally) I get some pretty good lookin ones but my very 1st load took me over 2 years before I could even get a shine on them that I would call a "polished rock"!
No computer,,,no Rocktumbling web site,,,,no nothin,,,just determination and a little patience,,,,
connrock
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Apr 15, 2010 6:37:52 GMT -5
Wow, first answer and you get one of the most experienced here, how cool is that! If you've done nothing else, you've come to the best place for help! Obviously, read the stickies and the previous posts for extra ideas too. Perhaps your Mother's friend either doesn't know how to explain what he does or he's been lucky and doesn't want to admit to it (adults like to wield power over the uninitiated ). To quote a phrase from a much wiser being "Patience my young Padawan" ;D Good Luck and NEVER give up, Never say die! Dr Joe .
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gemhunter
starting to spend too much on rocks
"Rock On"
Member since November 2009
Posts: 243
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Post by gemhunter on Apr 15, 2010 9:42:08 GMT -5
Don't give up it's too much FUN to do. Get frustrated, take a deep breath and climb back in the saddle. You will never improve if you just quit. Ed
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,503
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Post by Sabre52 on Apr 15, 2010 10:03:00 GMT -5
Wow, tumbling should not be causing you so much difficulty. First off, I'm assuming you're using a rotary tumbler. Vibes really don't do much to change rock shape and coarse grit like you're using won't work worth spit in a vibe. It mostly settles to the bottom and chews up your tub. With a rotary, as Connrock has stated, patience is everything. For hard stuff like agate and pet wood, it usually takes me a minimum of four to six weeks in 60/90 gri with weekly recharges, for good rounded shapes to move on to the next stage. Even much longer for heavily pitted stuff and sometimes, it's wise to just chuck out the heavily fractured or pitted stuff as it can be that way throughout the specimen and just not worth the grit and time. I find 60/90 works best because it sticks to the stones better than the 46/70 so it grinds more effectively. The coarse stage is really the secret. If you move only the nicely rounded and smoothed rocks to the next stages and make sure not to contaminate the successive stages with grit from the previous stage, you've won the battle. Just takes a lot of patience to run coarse that long.....Mel
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cerebrus1986
off to a rocking start
Member since March 2010
Posts: 16
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Post by cerebrus1986 on Apr 15, 2010 11:07:32 GMT -5
i am using a 3 lb barrel, and my rock pieces i bought from erockshop.com already processed and ready for tumbling, The rocks weighs about 2 pounds, The rock pieces vary from size down to a pee up to a pink eraser.
Thanks everyone, i will keep going, i was just so depressed over this whole thing and now after the words of encouragement, i feel re-energized.
THX
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carloscinco
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since July 2008
Posts: 1,639
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Post by carloscinco on Apr 15, 2010 11:16:33 GMT -5
Checklist: 1. Fill barrel to no more than 70%. Too full and the rocks can become locked up and the only thing circulating is the water and grit. No grinding action. 2. Add water to about 1/4" below the top of the rocks. 3. I add about 3 tablespoons of grit in a 3# barrel for the coarse stage. 4. Have a good mix of sizes and shapes. The large sizes must be small enough to tumble 360deg in the barrel or this will dampen the tumbling action. 5. Add marble sized gravel composed of flint and jaspers if you don't have enough small pieces of the rock you are most interested in. You really need the small stuff. Think of them as bearings to help keep things tumbling instead of sliding. 6. Burnishing is over-rated. I wouldn't worry about it till you get to the last step. 7. Listen to the good advice available from these folks. 8. Post a picture of your woes and you'll get even more specific advice. Good luck.
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Post by FrogAndBearCreations on Apr 15, 2010 11:22:31 GMT -5
it really takes a bit of practice to get the system down pat and the only way to get it is to just do it! My first attempts were not great, so I just took them back to rough grind and went back through the stages. One problem is that impatience hits and the stages don't get their full time for the best effect on the tumbled stones. I found out early on that I needed a individule barrel for each stage to prevent cross contamination and some sort of cushion so the stones did not spald and chip each other during the tumbling process. I also keep the cushions for each stage for that stage and do not use them for any other. Keeping the same hardness of stones in a batch is very important as you will find that the harder stones will kill anything softer that is tumbling with them. for the stones I tumble I run the first tumble untill there are no blemishes on any of the stones before I move to the next level. So at the end of a two week run in first stage I take them out and save the slurry, hose off my stone and look each one over, if I see any blemishes I put them all back in for another week and repeat this process untill I get blemish free results. I will then sort through the batch pulling any ones out that are still not blemish free and put them in a container for placing in another first stage tumble. I do this for every stage with any stones that do not have the same finish. Doing this I rarely get any bad eggs at the pre and polish level
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blessed
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2010
Posts: 329
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Post by blessed on Apr 15, 2010 11:32:48 GMT -5
Glad you are re-energized. I go along with the other 4 gentlemen on tumbling instructions. I would recomend Borax or Tide for burnishing. Welcome abord. Have a blessed day.
BLESSED
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Post by Toad on Apr 15, 2010 11:43:46 GMT -5
You've gotten a lot of good advice above.
Even after things are running correctly, tumbling is an operation in patience. My rocks take at least a month in 60/90 grit and often longer. But once they pass that stage, it is usually no longer than a week in each subsequent stage.
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 15, 2010 11:59:52 GMT -5
Pick up some small non-abrasive ceramic cylinders. Mix in to about 20% of load with 3 tablespoons 60/90 and water to near top with top layer sticking out of water. Overall about 3/4 the barrel. Run it 5 days and see if you have a pancake batter like slurry. If really thick add a little water. If really thin dump a tiny bit of water and add a teaspoon or so more grit. Check again in another 5 days. Grit carrying media (or lots of tiny rock chips which most beginners don't have) i really important for speeding up tumbling. Wash out the ceramic with the rocks and move on throughout the process through polish. I only burnish before and after polish and have never had dedicated drums for each step.
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Post by Hard Rock Cafe on Apr 15, 2010 12:03:08 GMT -5
Just a couple of thoughts: 1. As Mel mentioned, there is no substitute for good rough. If you're getting good tumbling action and you're still seeing pits and fractures after 2 weeks of tumbling, it may never get better. For your first load it's best to start with rock that is known to be easy to tumble, like Lake Superior Agates. Many members here shop at The Rock Shed because they have consistently good rough and low prices. I have no affiliation with The Rock Shed, other than being a satisfied customer.
2. We had a poll some time back on the most popular water level and the result was up to the bottom of the top layer of stones. Different people get good results with other levels, so it's not critical.
3. Getting the right mix of sizes is critical, as others have mentioned. Use plenty of small stuff.
4. It's also possible to use too much grit (it slows down the action), so follow the guidelines.
5. For burnishing, the most important thing is that the soap is non-foaming, like Borax, Dreft, or Tide.
6. I would continue to use the 46/70 until it's gone, but in the future with a 3 lb. barrel I would switch to 60/90.
BTW, I think Connrock meant no more than 1/2 - 2/3s of the barrel's capacity. 1/3 full would be very under loaded.
Hope this helps, Chuck
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,503
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Post by Sabre52 on Apr 15, 2010 12:59:19 GMT -5
Regarding the burnish issue: Someone here told me to try Dreft as it's safe for the barrels ( some detergents damage the rubber) and safe for the environment. Your borax water is deadly for plants and will kill the heck out of your lawn or trees if you dump it in the yard. I've been using Dreft for a couple of years now and it's a good burnish material....Mel
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Post by FrogAndBearCreations on Apr 15, 2010 13:40:38 GMT -5
what is the ingrediants of dreft?
is it like ivory soap?
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,503
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Post by Sabre52 on Apr 15, 2010 17:13:04 GMT -5
Yeah, I think Dreft is just one of those real mild, eco -friendly soap powders similar to Ivory. It's formulated for washing baby clothes and is in the baby dept..Mel
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Post by connrock on Apr 16, 2010 6:59:55 GMT -5
Chuck, Thanks for the correction!For some odd reason the key board doesn't always agree with what's in my mind! l!!
When Ivory Flakes was discontinued about the only similar product on the market was Dreft. Dreft is the only product I use for washing and burnishing my rocks.
Ahhh yes,,,the good old days of diaper pails and their sweet aroma,,,,,,,,and diaper pins!! Oh yeah,,,,and then there was that chore of boiling the baby bottles and nipples too!
Then came the "Diaper Services" where they took the dirty diapers,washed and dried them and delivered them back to your home!
Then came the disposables!!!
Hence,,,,No Ivory Flakes!
connrock
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