goldfinger1
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since November 2008
Posts: 154
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Post by goldfinger1 on May 5, 2010 8:20:21 GMT -5
HI Everyone-
For those who cut their own cabochons, what do you use for dop sticks and the adhesive? I think the traditionally way is to use wooden dowels and some type of wax. Are their any another ways to do this perhaps easier,faster,cleaner? Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
Steve
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gemhunter
starting to spend too much on rocks
"Rock On"
Member since November 2009
Posts: 243
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Post by gemhunter on May 5, 2010 9:43:03 GMT -5
You think my sticks are dirty? :cheesy:
Sorry, just being stupid. I am so new at this I order green wax and put on anything round. I use nails, and cut dowels. I have never had a problem with the wax. I have an electric dop pot, about $30 and I melt the wax and warm the stone on the pot. When I want to remove stone and wax from the stick I just place it in the freezer for a few minutes. It always comes off clean.
Hope this helps (by the way I learned this from the board) Ed
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Post by Tonyterner on May 5, 2010 10:20:08 GMT -5
I've tried a couple of different things but usually freehand everything so I might not be the best one to advise you. The green wax works well as long as you cab it soon after dopping, haven't tried the black yet. I find that over time it looses its grip. Some stones have fallen off just sitting in the tray. I've tried thick superglue. That holds fairly well but it can be a bugger to get off at times. I do like that on nails for tiny cabs. Some here use hot glue with good success but I haven't tried that one. This probably wasn't much help but its all I could offer.
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Post by fishenman on May 5, 2010 10:58:04 GMT -5
I use wooden dowels and green wax. I have found that heating the stones enough to be the key. If you lick your finger and touch the stone, the moisture should flash off immediately. If not, the stone is not hot enough. My stones get so hot I cannot even touch them. Of course the wax has been warmed for at least 20 mins.
I roll a bit of wax, plop it onto the stone then i remove it to my bench, wet my fingers and smooth the wax. After that I dunk it into my Genie pan of cool water, swish around and the wax hardens right away. Our rock club has a large block of metal that we put our stones on to cool them off. Nothing worse than to look over at freshly dopped stones where the stick is at an angle.
Stones that were not hot enough yet do come off but, I have never lost a stone that was properly heated before dopping. I have stones on the dops from last year (found a crack or something and put aside).
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Post by Bejewelme on May 5, 2010 19:20:54 GMT -5
My advice, don't use them, I am a dopping disaster!LOL
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Post by NatureNut on May 5, 2010 19:32:15 GMT -5
I use superglue on large nailheads, but have just gotten some dowels to try. I heat up the nail and pop the stone off. I have heard of some people doing well with dop sticks and wax. You just have to try for yourself. Jo
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jcinpc
has rocks in the head
Member since April 2009
Posts: 722
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Post by jcinpc on May 5, 2010 19:50:49 GMT -5
I too like the freehand freeform best. Just be prepared to have no fingernails on the thumbs and forefingers, your finger will bleed at times too.lol. Dop sticks are good to use and I keep some handy for a lighter touch. I use the green dop wax for that
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on May 5, 2010 19:51:55 GMT -5
Dop sticks and wax are what the big boys have used since forever, so I think it must have possibilities It's all about getting all the details right. Right wax. Green for cabbing stones, black for faceting gems (that are indexed and can't be moved). And fresh. Right amount of wax for the dop (basically as much as you can apply without it hitting the grinding wheel/disk). Pressing the wax to the stone and molding it to shape with your fingers while it's still hot (this is usually a failing point as it can be a little painful if done wrong). Right temp of wax and stone and air. If at first you don't succeed, try, try again. You will. Dr Joe .
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Post by kap on May 5, 2010 20:27:29 GMT -5
I use 5 min. epoxy and the long golf tee's. Never had a problem.(Dont use the painted ones just the natural wood) Keith
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on May 5, 2010 20:47:04 GMT -5
I use wood dowels cut to about 3", and superglue them to the stone. If you want the superglue to dry almost instantaneously, dust it with baking soda. I read that tip here and it works wonderfully! The only reservation I have with the superglue is it can pull tiny pits out of the cab. Just gotta be careful removing it. A few minutes in the freezer seems to help.
I have also used hot glue a few times and it worked good too. I heated the stone a bit, then glued just like you'd dop with wax. This seems less invasive than the superglue.
Experiment and see what you like best I guess.
Nate
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chromenut
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since December 2009
Posts: 1,971
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Post by chromenut on May 5, 2010 23:03:15 GMT -5
I like the shape of those carpenter's pencils you find at Lowes Home Improvements...not quite round, not exactly oval. I find I have way more control using them than a round dowel. I'm a beginner and control is key right now for me to get my cabs just right. I use superglue type of adhesive that I get at my hobby store for my RC airplanes along with a spray on drying chemical that makes the glue dry immediately. So far it works great, just sometimes a bugger to get them off the cab if you use too much glue. Here's a picture of the ends and why I like them so much... I'm a big guy so small things I tend to not be able to control as well, these are a very nice size for medium to larger hands. Also I found out if my pencil is stuck too well, if I put the cab in the freezer for a bit, they pop right off.
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Post by Tony W on May 6, 2010 0:21:12 GMT -5
Roofing nails with a big dollop of gel super glue. When I want to pop it off I put pressure down where the stone meets the head with one hand and at the point of the nail with the other. Pop 99 % of them off that way. The others I use a utility knife to work in behind the nail head. T
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free4rms
freely admits to licking rocks
My little pet walrus
Member since January 2007
Posts: 839
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Post by free4rms on May 6, 2010 6:18:33 GMT -5
Acetone will also remove dowels that have been glued to stones using super glue.
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Post by frane on May 6, 2010 17:39:15 GMT -5
I have used dowels (3"-5"), nail heads and golf tee's, depending on the size of the stone. I have noticed that the longer dowels do not work great on the cabbing machine. I always bump the trays with it and that can really bug you. Longer dowels are fine with a flat lap. I really like the golf tee's. I tried the green wax but would loose cabs often. I switched to the black wax and it doesn't happen nearly as much anymore. Just heat the wax a good long time and have the stone hot enough. I have noticed if I start using the wax before it is good and loose, I will almost always have the cab come off the stick. I also freehand but sometimes I start that way and then dop to really get the control I need to get any scratches out. Fran
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waltonr
off to a rocking start
Member since April 2010
Posts: 11
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Post by waltonr on May 6, 2010 18:08:11 GMT -5
I have heard of folks using Elmer's white glue although I have not tried it myself (I use 5 minute Epoxy). Let the Elmer's set for 24 hours after gluing stick to rock then coat with clear fingernail polish to waterproof. Remove polish with acetone and soak in water 24 hours to remove stone. Slow but they say it works.
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Post by stonesthatrock on May 6, 2010 20:11:11 GMT -5
ralph use the green wax and dop pot. he heats the stone on the side of the pot before putting the stick on. Works great for him. Infact i bought him the new inland dot pot and he has no trouble at all. When hes done, into the freezer they go......... 20-30 mins later. Poof !!!! they fall right off.
mary ann
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