wi54880
starting to shine!
Member since March 2009
Posts: 33
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Post by wi54880 on May 12, 2010 22:10:44 GMT -5
On some of your advice, I bought 2 model B's and a UV12 last year because "bigger was better."
I won't be able to get out to pick many rocks this year, we'll be having a baby boy on Monday, so I really want to make sure I'm getting the most out of what I've found and what I've purchased locally and online. I can maybe do 2 batches this year so I really want to get the most out of it.
So, I've read that I should/could be cutting into imperfections and grinding out rough spots. I bought a tile saw and ordered some diamond Dremel attachments. I think I'm going to avoid investing in a grinder because there is a lot I can do with the Dremel.
Is there any way to know what agates I should cut into and where to cut them? Or is it all just trial and error?
If I grind out a spot or cut something off or in half, if I leave it in the tumblers for a few weeks (with a recharge), will the grind and saw marks disappear?
I'm primarily using Lake Superior Agates.
Any advice would be fantastic, thanks all for your help and advice.
jess
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Post by jakesrocks on May 12, 2010 22:19:11 GMT -5
First of all, if you're going to use diamond bits to grind out and smooth imperfections, the bits should be used in water. I'd suggest that you buy a stand for that Dremel , and the flex shaft attachment. Water and electricity don't go together very well. Also, you'll get much longer life out of your diamond bits if you run them wet.
If you leave your rocks in course tumble long enough, it will remove all saw and grinding marks.
Don
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wi54880
starting to shine!
Member since March 2009
Posts: 33
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Post by wi54880 on May 12, 2010 22:23:48 GMT -5
Thanks Don,
There was an e-how video that showed a guy using his Dremel. He kept dipping the rock in water to cool it off.
I think you are referring to the vertical stand they make for the Dremel? They have that at a local hardware store, I just haven't picked it up, was hoping to get a little feedback on it...
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Post by jakesrocks on May 12, 2010 22:40:08 GMT -5
That's the one. They make a flex shaft for the Dremel too. It's about 2-1/2 feet long, and will get you and the water a safe distance away from the motor. Work your stones in a plastic bowl of water, and keep your diamond bit wet too. The bits can be destroyed by overheating.
Don
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Post by 150FromFundy on May 13, 2010 11:06:09 GMT -5
The Dremel tool stand is great. It converts your Dremel to a drill press which I use to drill pendannt mounts, or you can swing the Dremel 90 degrees in the stand and use it like a bench grinder, or fixed cut-off disc. Best attachment Dremel has to offer.
Do ALL your drilling and grinding wet. It not only preserves diamind bit life, but it will also preserve your life, or the quality of it. Google search "silicosis" and you will understand the concern. Or accept that silicosis sounds like asbestosis and that may be enough.
Darryl.
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Post by Hard Rock Cafe on May 13, 2010 13:09:01 GMT -5
Hi Jess,
Others have given their opinions on the Dremel, I'll try to help out with the agate and cutting questions since I have a lot of experience with Lakers.
You can use your tile saw as a grinder or as a saw. The tile blades are thick enough to do both.
You'll want to look for fractures in the rocks and cut along those. Lakers with big quartz centers will not tumble well unless you only run them in a vibe, which you don't have. The quartz crystals tend to break and chip. Save those rocks for another day.
Assuming you want rounded rocks, you'll want to cut off projections to get the basic shape you want.
Some people either grind out or tumble out all the pits. I leave them in for 2 reasons:
1. if you tumble them out, you'll end up with a _much_ smaller rock;
2. I like the indications of their origins
Lakers are very hard and will take a long time to tumble, 4-6 wks in coarse is common. Don't run eye agates that long because you'll tumble off the eyes. Be sure to use filler, like plastic pellets, in the later stages because they are prone to chipping.
After that, it really depends on the shapes you like. And yes, the coarse stage will remove all marks and sharp edges.
Hope this helps,
Chuck
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wi54880
starting to shine!
Member since March 2009
Posts: 33
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Post by wi54880 on May 13, 2010 14:06:50 GMT -5
Thanks Chuck,
I do have a UV12, but wasn't sure if I'd use it this year. Sounds like the tile saw has a few more uses than I thought, but I have trouble getting a smooth cut. It usually gets just about to the end, and then it snaps off. I've only cut a few though, so maybe with practice and slowing down it'll work better. Solid advice for the agates with the big crystals, I have a three inch crystal that looks like a barber pole with the red agate running through in stripes. On your advice, that one will just go in the vibe.
Thanks everyone for letting me know about saw and grind marks disappearing. Downside is, a month is a terribly long time for one stage!!! I'll survive!!
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Post by deb193redux on May 13, 2010 18:01:27 GMT -5
... a month or TWO - lakers can be very hard.
when you get a nub at the end of a saw cit, which happens most times, just lightly press the nub against the side of the blade to grind it away. Or place the flat of the cut along the blade and sort of cut the nub off.
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