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Post by jakesrocks on Aug 19, 2010 9:33:30 GMT -5
Hey Chris, thanks for the link to the round belts. I've bookmarked it, and will contact them later today. I want to get my little sphere machine back up and running before winter sets in. That's a toy I can play with indoors, when the temps are sub zero out in the shop. Don
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
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Post by cooknet on Aug 19, 2010 9:51:49 GMT -5
I don't mind you asking at all Dr Joe! Just as everyone here has been VERY helpful with me building this cabbing machine, the people on gemologyonline.com/ have been very helpful in directing me in the proper method of building a faceting machine. There are alot of do's and don't's that I learned from other people's experiences, mostly in the actual "design" of the machine itself. Most of what makes a faceting machine a faceting machine is it's ability to cut angles, and in order to do so, everything MUST be aligned in a certain way, and unless you already KNOW how things should be aligned, there's no way your gonna build the thing correctly! So being forewarned about things is great, because it's what you don't even know that you don't even know that gets you every time when your designing something! How about you Dr Joe, do YOU know what kind of grease/lubricant I SHOULD be injecting into my pillow block bearings?
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
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Post by cooknet on Aug 19, 2010 10:45:27 GMT -5
Hey Chris, thanks for the link to the round belts. I've bookmarked it, and will contact them later today. I want to get my little sphere machine back up and running before winter sets in. That's a toy I can play with indoors, when the temps are sub zero out in the shop. Don No problem! I just hope it works out with them, as I've never dealt with them, and am still awaiting a reply from them regarding their belting material in bulk by the foot. I hate to do this, because I'm mad at these guys for not dealing with me since I'm in Canada, but I'm more professional than that, and am more interested in helping my fellow man than holding a grudge against someone because of their policies. The company that was "originally" recommended to me by the people on the gemology page is here: This is for the solid core belting material, in 3/8" size: www.mcmaster.com/#59725k806/=8h1m2ythis is for the hollow core material also in 3/8" size: www.mcmaster.com/#6567k4/=8h1mihThis is the general page that has it all on there, including the aluminum connectors for the hollow core to connect the belt ends together (they also come in plastic if desired): www.mcmaster.com/#6567k24/=8h1mvmI "attempted" to order 5 feet of the hollow, 5 feet of the solid, 2 feet of the solid 1/2" belting, and one package of the connectors (qty 20), and that all came to only $32.86 before shipping, so that should give you something to compare to when shopping around at other companies, such as the one I just previously referred you to. Since the cost of these kinds of items vary drastically depending on the target market of the supplier, it's good to be able to gauge the prices on something and be able to do comparisons. I'm sure you will have NO problem dealing with McMaster, as your in the US. Hope this helps! Chris Oh....by the way, does ANYONE know what lubricant to recommend that I use on my pillow block bearings? LOL Chris
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drjo
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Post by drjo on Aug 19, 2010 22:29:01 GMT -5
Thanks.
Automotive wheel bearing grease will be just fine, it's high temp and high load. It come in small cartridges for a grease gun.
Dr Joe
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2009
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Post by cooknet on Aug 19, 2010 22:41:13 GMT -5
Thanks Dr Joe!! The slight "thumping" and vibration issue I'm having MUST be the crappy "V" belts! I changed the motor, changed the V-belt to another one, and the same thing, I even changed both pulleys to a few different ones that were slightly different, same thing. Since the bearings don't seem to be vibrating in the least little bit, nor is the shaft, it's just got to be the belt! I'm ordering about 20 feet of the 3/8" solid Urethane belting so I never have to worry about needing the belts again ever! I actually have another supplier who responded to me offering me these belts at a very good price, it is beltcorp.com/Their pricing is as follows: Part #0011120, 3/8” diameter 85A round orange urethane belting - $1.25/ft. Part #HY.375, 3/8” diameter 85A round yellow hollow urethane belting - $2.09/ft.
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spicer m
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Post by spicer m on Aug 19, 2010 23:56:09 GMT -5
Chris By looking at you pics, looks like small Alum cast pulleys, The V-grove not machined??. I have found that some times they do not run true. Thus causing the same type of problem You are describing. If You can get a hold of Machined V-grove pulleys cast iron or steel it should solve the high vibs (if thats the problem??) Big Brg store has them cheap. I recomend 2-1/2" to 3" for both motor and shaft. Mike
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cooknet
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Post by cooknet on Aug 20, 2010 0:50:41 GMT -5
Thanks Mike, maybe that's the issue, I did try a multitude of different pulleys, but maybe they are all the same only slightly different sizes, I'll take a pic and post it later so you can see some of the pulleys I tried. Thanks! Chris
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2009
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Post by cooknet on Aug 20, 2010 9:55:07 GMT -5
Chris By looking at you pics, looks like small Alum cast pulleys, The V-grove not machined??. I have found that some times they do not run true. Thus causing the same type of problem You are describing. If You can get a hold of Machined V-grove pulleys cast iron or steel it should solve the high vibs (if thats the problem??) Big Brg store has them cheap. I recomend 2-1/2" to 3" for both motor and shaft. Mike Hi Mike, here are a few pics of some of the pulleys that I have, and have tried, some are new, some are old beaters, and I have larger ones as well that I've tried too. They all seem to have different channel sizes and shapes, and are constructed of different materials, such as aluminum or steel. I'm not sure exactly which ones you are saying are more desirable than others, so maybe, if i have any of the better ones here, you could explain which ones they are, and why they are better than the others. They all seem to fit the belt in the channel of the pulley properly, none of them seem to hang out or anything, it just seems like some seem to be seated better than others, namely the more "square" shaped channels. What do you think?? Chris
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Post by johnjsgems on Aug 20, 2010 10:32:48 GMT -5
You may have vibration from the motor mounting to the hood being not rigid enough. Every belt driven cab unit I've seen has a v-belt with no issues. Any automotive grease will work fine.
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Post by jakesrocks on Aug 20, 2010 11:06:47 GMT -5
On that center pulley in the first pic, and any others that look like that, very carefully file away the chewed up edge on the inside of the pulley. Those rough spots will wear away your belt. As John said, I've never seen a cab unit that didn't use a v-belt. The v-belts are much easier to replace. No waiting on an order. Just go to your local auto or tractor parts store and buy a replacement. Something I do is to keep a notebook on each machine. I save the paper sleeve that comes with the belt. If I have to replace a belt, I take the sleeve with me. The guy behind the counter reads the info on the sleeve and can pick the right replacement belt with no hassle. Don
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cooknet
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Post by cooknet on Aug 20, 2010 16:26:44 GMT -5
Hi Don, thanks for that info!
I actually questioned myself if I was even getting the right belt to begin with, as they all have different numbers on them that mean a certain thing, and I am not sure what all those numbers designate, other than the length of the belt, and the "A" or "B" type of belt.
I am not sure even now if those numbers designate widths and heights as the numbers on your car tires do for example.
I "assumed" that if you had an "A" belt and an "A" pulley, then the rest was simply a mater of getting the correct length, based on the clearances and the distance from pulley to pulley.
Are there any other factors that I am not aware of when choosing a belt?
I didn't even notice those dings on the side of that pulley until you pointed it out to me. Maybe it just happened by it falling or something falling on it and I didn't notice it, so thanks for pointing that out.
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drjo
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Post by drjo on Aug 20, 2010 19:59:07 GMT -5
Here's a pretty comprehensive "everything you always wanted to know about belts that Dad didn't tell you" article for your amusement. www.gizmology.net/pulleysbelts.htmDr Joe .
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cooknet
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Post by cooknet on Aug 20, 2010 22:41:00 GMT -5
Hey thanks Dr Joe!! Chris
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Post by jakesrocks on Aug 20, 2010 22:45:39 GMT -5
Ditto. I sent that link on to a friend in Rapid City who has been asking about pulleys. Don
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cooknet
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Member since February 2009
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Post by cooknet on Aug 21, 2010 11:10:41 GMT -5
Ditto. I sent that link on to a friend in Rapid City who has been asking about pulleys. Don Since we are now talking pulleys, here is a much less in depth reference chart that's easy to just reference at a glance in case anyone is interested in knowing the speed ratio. It's nowhere as informative as the online calculator, but good to have also, in case you need to print it off or something if your not around a PC to have internet access or something. That online reference you supplied really is GREAT, thanks again for that!!
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Post by jakesrocks on Aug 21, 2010 11:34:07 GMT -5
Chris, these charts are great for lapidary wheel speeds. But when used for saws, especially larger saws, the speed has to be in surface feet per minute. There's another chart for saw blades. I'll see if I can find it for you. Don
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cooknet
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Post by cooknet on Aug 21, 2010 12:11:33 GMT -5
You may have vibration from the motor mounting to the hood being not rigid enough. Every belt driven cab unit I've seen has a v-belt with no issues. Any automotive grease will work fine. Funny you mentioned that, I actually ripped off that wooden mount with the hinge on it, and replaced it with a thick metal mount, which will be "bolted" onto the unit, and the distance for belt tensioning will be adjusted by moving the nuts on the long threaded bolts to fine tune it, and it can be locked in place that way as well. I don't know what I can do about the actual motor mount itself, the one that the motor ends clamp into, as the actual metal it is made of is a bit thin. I replaced not only the motor mount, but the actual whole motor with a heavier duty motor and mount, it's still only a 1/4hp motor, but its alot more solid of a motor, as it is an older one, and made of what looks like cast iron. It runs nice and quiet. I hope it is more solid and doesn't allow any of that nasty vibrations, these are all things you just cannot foresee, and just don't know will happen until you put it all together! Chris
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cooknet
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Post by cooknet on Aug 21, 2010 12:12:57 GMT -5
oops, sorry about that Don, I didn't mean to mislead anyone! I just figured that since I'm making a cabbing machine, that that was good info to post. I "do" plan on building a new saw eventually though too! Chris
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cooknet
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Post by cooknet on Aug 22, 2010 23:16:45 GMT -5
Well, This worked Still gotta cut off those long threaded pieces though, and repaint all the scratches ect It's not thumping all around now, this seemed to fix all of that somehow! Chris
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drjo
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Post by drjo on Aug 23, 2010 16:48:16 GMT -5
I see real problem with that setup!
It's way too purty!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Good work. Glad you got the 'bumps' out.
Dr Joe
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