dhomen
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2010
Posts: 16
|
Post by dhomen on Jul 30, 2010 18:53:21 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Jul 30, 2010 19:54:31 GMT -5
I have the flat lap without all of the other pieces. It works good on flat surfaces. Haven't tried to cab on it. It does have a weak point. The valve that controls the water is garbage. If you get this machine, replace the valve with a small brass valve from a tropical fish store. Don
|
|
|
Post by johnjsgems on Jul 30, 2010 19:56:09 GMT -5
You should find many posts on the Inland equipment. I would save up a little more and buy either the Ameritool or High Tech Diamond unit.
|
|
dhomen
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2010
Posts: 16
|
Post by dhomen on Jul 30, 2010 20:46:25 GMT -5
Thanks. I looked at the Ameritool and seems to come in 4" for glass? The High Tech Diamond unit, I just couldn't find much about. I can be dense at times. The Inland equipment says that it has a DC Motor. Dense Part - does it run on a battery or plugs in for AC. Go ahead and Chuckle ....... I have more stupid questions! LOL!
|
|
zip
having dreams about rocks
Member since May 2009
Posts: 65
|
Post by zip on Jul 30, 2010 21:15:57 GMT -5
Based on John's advice I bought the Ameritool instead of the Inland. I decided to get the 8" flat lap and I have never been happier. I understand that the Inland can give you fits. Oh, all AC, by the way...zip
|
|
|
Post by bobby1 on Jul 30, 2010 23:29:42 GMT -5
Generally, machines that have a variable speed option run with what is called a universal motor. That means that it can run on AC or DC. Usually, to have a speed controlled motor it needs to have brushes on the armature. Universal motors have brushes and run on 110v. AC and can have a speed control. They don't need DC to run, but they will run on DC. Bob
|
|
drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
|
Post by drjo on Jul 31, 2010 8:51:06 GMT -5
Welcome. Ok, now that I got back in my chair after falling out laughing sooo hard (JK), (I had a visual of you changing out 100 D cells every 2 minutes ) DC motors are cheaper to make and are isolated from the AC line so use around water is a little safer and speed controls are easier to design for them. If your handy check out our DIY section for some really cheap flat laps too, it doesn't take much to make one. Dr Joe .
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Jul 31, 2010 9:15:55 GMT -5
The Inland flat lap plugs in to a regular 110 volt outlet. The AC power is converted to DC internally. I won't go into how this is done, but the motor for it's size has plenty of power. As I've said, the only problem I've found with mine is the water control valve. Don
|
|
dhomen
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2010
Posts: 16
|
Post by dhomen on Jul 31, 2010 12:51:19 GMT -5
Chuckle ....... I figured the AC or DC with Batteries would get a chuckle. I was envisioning using jumper cables to a 12 volt battery. Hope you didn't hurt yourself Dr. Joe when you fell out of your chair! I definitely have the AC DC thing now. LOL! Thanks a bunch for the responses. Analysis Paralysis is setting in, looking at all the gizmos and reading posts. All I wanted to do was cut a small rock or twenty up and polish them. Hahahahahahahaha Dave
|
|
|
Post by rockmanken on Jul 31, 2010 14:01:44 GMT -5
To cut a rock, most of us have a QEP from Lowe's or a Work Force from Home Depot. They are 7" tile saws. Run less than $100. As for the flat lap, DON'T get the Inland. Add $100 and get the 6" Ameritool. John at jsgems is on here and sells them. Comes complete with everything except dop sticks and wax and dop pot. The quick change saw and grinder leaves a lot to be desired from Inland. My two cents worth, Ken
|
|
|
Post by johnjsgems on Jul 31, 2010 15:27:19 GMT -5
Ameritool flat laps come in 6" and 8". The only 4" unit is their trim saw which can handle a 5" blade as well. High Tech flat laps are very similar and I think their saw is 6".
|
|
dhomen
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2010
Posts: 16
|
Post by dhomen on Aug 1, 2010 9:16:27 GMT -5
Well Heck! Good Morning to all. Unfortunately, I ordered the Inland SwapTop BEFORE reading all of this. Is OK, one of my three grandsons will enjoy tinkering. Ironically enough, in my professional life, one of the functions I supervise is a full up metallurgical analysis lab and we have three 8" Buehler flat laps. I think I can con my Lab Supervisor into letting me use one if I supply the paper. Since I run the budgets and her, shouldn't be to big of a problem as long as it is after hours and we ain't chopping up metal specimens. Should be good enough to at least get the rough grind done. The band sander will come in handy too. I spent my formative years cutting, grinding and polishing metal samples for evaluation and analysis. This should be a snap. Chuckle. We also have a 10" chop saw, but ain't going there. The blades are expensive and I don't need to be doing the maintenance to clean the sump out. LOL! I am going to head down to Home Depot. Never in my wildest thoughts did I ever think of a Tile Saw. Thanks!!!!! I do appreciate all the information. Dave
|
|
|
Post by frane on Aug 1, 2010 16:58:07 GMT -5
OK, I have to add my two cents. Since you have already ordered it, just think of it as a beginning tool... One thing I learned the hard way, Always make sure your flat lap arbor is tightened well on the motor shaft! I would always think mine was tight enough and then while cabbing, it would slip down before I noticed it and grind away the plastic lip of the drip pan. That allows water to run down the shaft, into the motor...3 motors later, I realized that was happening and we had to get a new drip pan also. Sometimes it is hard to get rid of flat spots. When I would really get frustrated, I would throw the cabs in a rotary tumbler for a week to get them smoothed to continue on to the final laps. Keep breathing masks on while you work. Even though the rock is being wetted by the drip system, you really need to protect your lungs because that rock snot really fly's! The tile saw is the best way to go when you are just starting out. Make sure you get some extra continuous rim diamond blades and just go to town! If you see sparks, you are pushing the rock through too hard. Lighten up on your touch and the blade will last a good while. Don't forget the pictures! We love to see how you are doing! Fran
|
|
dhomen
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2010
Posts: 16
|
Post by dhomen on Aug 1, 2010 18:35:36 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips. Yep - I saw sparks. Slowed way down, I have masks and will be sure to wear it. I cleaned the machine twice. Nasty!!!! Most, if not all of what I whacked up this PM is destined for a new tumbler load (all Obsidian) as soon as my shipment of grit gets here. I have already made enough mistakes to fill a book. Do you have a clue how high water flies off the wheel without the blade guard on? LOL!!!!!! Will definitley do the tightening thing with the flat lap. That is priceless information.
Dave
|
|
dhomen
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2010
Posts: 16
|
Post by dhomen on Aug 8, 2010 8:59:12 GMT -5
Sorry it took so long to Repost. Wife broke some bones in her elbow so had to do the surgery thing. Post Op has had me pretty busy. All is well now and recupertating nicely. I got the Lortone Swaptop in and in between making sure my wife was comfortable and well medicated, I unpacked and set up the machine. The PDF file on the hot link has Photo's and some Likes and Dislikes. Thanks a ton for all the tips, and help. I have been skulking around the tumbling and Cab rooms as well. I pretty well suck at lapping and polishing at the moment. I was able to get the Lortone 45C Tumbler working well. No more leaks and the pesky bearings seem to be working well. Here is the link. It is located on my website for a working group I run. www.dwgndt.org/Lortone%20SwapTop%20Experience.pdfThanks again!! Dave
|
|
|
Post by FrogAndBearCreations on Aug 8, 2010 9:28:40 GMT -5
I have an Inland swap top too that I traded some casting equip for.
I purchased a dozen or so master laps and arbor nuts to set up all my discs and polishing pads plus my saw blade. The swaping out of that part made me crazy!
I modified the base of the unit by mounting it to a sturdy board that I screwed to my bench top to reduce the vibration and movement during use. I modified the drain pans for the flat lap and grinding tops so that the hose would stay put ( found a nylon right angle and straignt coupler that fit the tops drain tube). The little drain hole for the flat lap needed some groves leading to and the edge indented to drain better. I bought more tubing so my tops ar set without all that part swapping.
I also modified the base unit where the saw runs as part of the well wall caused the tubing to crimp and not drain well on the flat lap and grinding top.
I had to modify the grinding top to keep that little plastic part that holds the sponge in place to not keep popping out - two small bolts, nuts and retainer clips.
the other thing I did was to use isolation pads and split tubing to keep the motor from vibrating against the mount for it.
I found a plastic tub that works slick to keep the rock snot contained and made a shield to keep the stuff from me. The base unit is mounted through the tub to the board. I cut holes in the tub to allow the tubings to run out to a bucket.
So now I am happy with how it all works and have done lots with the flat lap and grinder but have yet to use the saw.
|
|
|
Post by deb193redux on Aug 8, 2010 13:58:39 GMT -5
I still have the motor and parts of two units. I plan to set up for edge grooving.
I am reading all of the modifications you made and understand each was small, but there were many. Also you are modifying a plastic frame that could crack or split or chip with each modification. One of mine broke right where the side clips hold on the top.
Plus, you have not yet used the saw, which IMHO is the biggest piece of junk in the whole system.
I am glad you are happy and it is performing for you, but taken as a whole, your modification list is the biggest condemnation of the system I have read yet.
|
|
|
Post by FrogAndBearCreations on Aug 8, 2010 18:49:49 GMT -5
it did not cost me anything as the stuff I traded for it was given to me so I am not out anything.
I know how to work with plastic so did not get into any problems there.
All my modifications are working as I intended them to and I will deal with the wimpy way the tops fit the base unit. I have a plan if they ever break at that point which I saw right off as being a weak spot.
If I were to spend my money it would not be for one of the inland swap top units!
In all its a great idea with very poor engineering and wimpy plastic parts
|
|
|
Post by deb193redux on Aug 8, 2010 20:32:03 GMT -5
Yes. I agree good for you and your skills, and so a good deal for you.
For anybody trying to save money, keep looking unless you want to do similar modifications.
|
|
dhomen
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2010
Posts: 16
|
Post by dhomen on Oct 3, 2010 6:46:09 GMT -5
Gosh - it has been awhile. The QEP saw works. I can't whine cause I do the laundry round here, but I have T-shirts with a line of rock snot on them. Chuckle. The blades wear out fast. I have slowed WAY down on the pressure as I pass the stone through it. At twenty four bucks a crack for the blades it isn't bad but I am getting picky about what I saw through. I have found that worn out blades make great shapers. The side of the blade works well.
The Inland thing is another story. After a few hours in front of that thing, mostly using the shaper and rough flat lap, I have some complaints but nothing horrible. I can now say that I would not endorse the Inland and agree that I should have ponied up the extra $$ for a different machine. Live and Learn.
Everything I have cut and shaped are currently in the tumblers. Based on some good advice here about the correct angle to cut Silver Sheen Obsidian, I got a couple of really nice pieces. Looking forward to seeing them once they come out of the tumblers. There is some really pretty Rainbow and Mahogany/black mix as well.
Thanks a Ton for the advice. Pictures will be coming. I figured out the Photobucket thing so posting Pic's is pretty easy.
Dave
|
|