CallMeShane
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since August 2010
Posts: 112
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Post by CallMeShane on Aug 4, 2010 21:35:05 GMT -5
Hello all, I've been lurking in the shadows of the boards for awhile and gathering info on what I might need to build this thing. Now I've come to a point where I think I know what all is needed but want to make sure I'm making the right choices. So what I'm wondering is if the choices I have are right for a 6 wheel arbor for less than $600 total(all parts,wheels and motor) or if I need to change some things. I know about the motor requirements from asking the old guys at my local club,so I think I'm safe there. As far as parts I was thinking a 3/4" or 1" rod and the blocks,pulleys and what not I can find to fit into budget. I also want a rod that is long enough for at least an inch and a half of space between wheels or maybe a full 2 inches. My hands all ready have too many scars from my clumsiness lol. The rods I am considering are as follows... www.grainger.com/Item # 2DLW9 That one is aluminium and I'm not sure if that's the right choice for metal or if it is strong enough. So is it okay? Then this one which is a little shorter and has internal threads. Item # 2DLZ6 Next it's on to McMaster-Carr... Part Number: 6516K81 Part Number: 90281A906 I also found this place www.truckspring.com/suspension-parts/threaded-rod.aspx are these alright for this? And would a black oxide finish wear off or cause problems? Really any shaft that's suitable will work for me,but these are one's I like based on size,length and price. If you have better suggestions feel free to tell me them as I've never made anything like this before and would appreciate the experience that you would have in this area. As for the blocks I was thinking of these... www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-9/1%22-Pillow-Block-Bearing/Detail for a 1 inch shaft. Or the 3/4" ones of the same type. Also is there any real advantage to going with a 1 inch shaft over a slightly cheaper 3/4 inch one? The wheels I'm thinking of are the 6 inch Kingsley North brand belt wheels and the 80/220 grit package from them also. Also how much room is needed between the center pulley and the 2 pillow blocks? Can they be too close to each other? Thanks for any advice,tips,suggestions or knowledge you all can provide me. I'm sure I'll have more questions.
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Post by jakesrocks on Aug 4, 2010 22:18:51 GMT -5
I would shy away from that aluminum shaft. Stainless steel would be your best bet, as it won't rust or corrode. 3/4" should be thick enough for a 6 wheel setup. The pillow block bearings will do the trick, but get the shaft collars to go on the outside of each bearing. As for pulley space, I'd leave at least 1/8 " of clearance on both sides of the pulley. Make sure the shaft you buy has right hand threads on one end, and left hand threads on the other end, and comes with the correct nuts. You can make your own wheel spacers out of 3/4" ID plastic pipe. Heavy walled pipe is best. Just make sure that they're cut square on the ends. The wheels you plan to use are made to run at motor speed, (1725 RPM), so make sure your motor and shaft pulleys are the same size. Don
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Aug 4, 2010 22:51:58 GMT -5
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Aug 4, 2010 22:54:11 GMT -5
I got sniped again Oh well atleast we agree ;D Dr Joe .
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spicer m
spending too much on rocks
Member since October 2008
Posts: 337
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Post by spicer m on Aug 4, 2010 23:05:49 GMT -5
I prefer 1" shafts, all wheels are 1" inside. You should have Right hand threads on the right and Left hand threads threads on the left. I think this is a better choice for a bearing (thank to cooknet) www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-Pillow-Block-Bearings-cln-UCPH200/CategoriesBefore You think about how long a shaft You need know more information. Are You going to mount bearings Vertical (takes a shorter shaft) or bolted down Horizontal (takes a longer shaft for wheel clearance at bearing mount) . Are You going to have Nuts with the OD of shaft threaded (takes longer shaft)? or shaft drilled and tap for bolts (shorter shaft)? How wide is bearing Mount? How wide is pulley gaurd? What size wheels are You going to use 4" 6" 8" Do You want to use a flat lap on the end of shaft? with 1/2" hole or Magnetic type? Do You want to use 1/4" stud type spin on buff on end of shaft? I mounted my bearing in vertical postion; Used 2" wide for bearing mount and 2" wide for pulley gaurd. Used 1/2" Wheel clearance between bearing mount and pulley gaurd. Think I used 1-1/2" between 6" wheels but wish I had went 2". 4" nova wheels are 1-1/4" wide Most 6" wheels are 1-1/2" wide Most 8" wheels are 1-1/2" or 2" wide There a exceptions to the above expandable drums ect. Good luck Mike
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CallMeShane
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since August 2010
Posts: 112
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Post by CallMeShane on Aug 5, 2010 14:15:12 GMT -5
Eh...that's a lot of new info for me to ponder. I was actually thinking of something like the EZ-Kutter,my Aunt bought one and after She got rid of the crap wheels that came on it She loves it. I was looking at it and thought I could cobble one together maybe.
As for the motor,I was told 1/3 or 1/4 HP single phase and it would help if it had the same size shaft as the arbor rod. And I'm really not sure if I would want flat laps on the ends since I rarely go beyond a final polish with the 3k wheel.
I've never had much luck with cerium or aluminium oxide,I see no noticeable difference when I use them. Maybe on one side for a diamond disc might be alright,but I hate dopping stones so I wouldn't want my fingers that close to a larger surface area a disc has.
I typically only catch My knuckles on a wheel beside the one I'm using and never my fingertips. The knuckle bumps are why I want large spacing.
So it sounds like an aluminum shaft is out,that's just fine with me.
Really what I was looking at is something like the EZ-Kutter with some changes here and there such as more spacing between wheels and maybe mounting the motor beneath the unit so I could have a rolling cart that everything sits on.
I like those taller bearings that Spicerm posted and think they would be better for clearance than the short one's and give me the option of running 8 inch wheels without needing to do too much but raise the splash hoods.
I still have a touch of a sinus headache from yesterday so I need to end this for now,it seems to be making my eyes hurt more.
Thanks for everything so far and if You all want to suggest more or point out any better deals then feel free to.
I bow before you expertise and wisdom Gods of the Equipment Board!
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 5, 2010 22:21:12 GMT -5
You will want 1/3 HP as a minimum, 1/4 HP will not be enough. 1/2 would be better, 6 wheels is a lot of rolling load, especially if you go with the lower priced solid steel hard wheels instead of the steel rings with plastic cores. Shaft size of the motor is unimportant, simply get a pulley to fit the shaft. Putting the motor under the unit is a good choice, you only need a small belt guard to be safe. Also do yourself a favor and a use fresh water system, not those yucky cross contaminating spritzers.
Lee
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2009
Posts: 169
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Post by cooknet on Aug 7, 2010 23:53:51 GMT -5
Well you've certainly come to the right place for advice! If you've been reading all the threads, you already know that these guys are absolutely the BEST in terms of giving the right advice, and for directing you to the right produces, I just cannot give them enough praise! I personally could not have done it without them!! One of the 1st things they advised was why not purchase from Lortone an already built 6 wheel 6" arbor for only $430 for the all stainless models, and even cheaper, $310 for their non-stainless classic arbors, you can view then here: www.lortone.com/arbors.htmlYou can also buy them from Kingsley North IF your in the US, I had problems because I'm in Canada. (that's what finally made me decide to just build my own!) You can see them here: www.kingsleynorth.com/skshop/search_results2.php?catID=94&keys=&start=5&count=13If your in Canada, these 2 places will treat you like crap, but you'll be just fine if your in the USA. I am sure you wanted to build your own setup by hand, but just in case you wanted equipment and it didn't matter how you got it, as long as it came in under $600 bucks, then I thought I'd suggest that fast option, as that was what was suggested to me when I first contemplated building my own, as I was having trouble getting all the parts, that is until these super kind people helped me out with that, thanks again guys!! Didn't mean to interrupt here, just thought I'd make a suggestion to try to help out, as I'm currently building a 4 wheel 6" machine, and it is very time consuming, just waiting for tall the parts to arrive under one roof before you even start making it! I, also went with those higher UCPH200 bearings because they have the ability to lock onto the shaft via locking screws. I'm still waiting for them to arrive in the mail currently. If you have your heart set on making your own equipment, because you want the challenge and the satisfaction of building your own gear, then please disregard my suggestion, I'm just trying to help as always! Take care! Chris
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