roxmonket
off to a rocking start
Member since March 2010
Posts: 6
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Post by roxmonket on Oct 6, 2010 8:31:05 GMT -5
I've heard good things about Tripoli prepolish, so I picked up a pound with my last order. Should I use it after the 500 grit stage or in place of the 500? Any tips? I seem to remember reading 1Tbs per 1.5lbs of rock, does that sound about right?
Thanks.
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 6, 2010 8:38:05 GMT -5
Yes, after the 500. 500 is mistakenly labeled as "prepolish" but really is fine sanding. one tablespoon per 1.5 lbs. should work. You could even try a little less. Sorry, I don't measure anything.
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docharber
has rocks in the head
Member since October 2008
Posts: 693
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Post by docharber on Oct 12, 2010 14:53:30 GMT -5
Per Wikipedia, tripoli is limestone (woodworkers call it rottenstone). i don't know if that's right, but it makes you wonder how such a soft material could be an effective abrasive. let us know how it works. Cerium oxide is also a relatively soft material, but works great on a wide variety of much harder stones as a polish. Back to the old debate about how polishing occurs- progressively smaller scratches, surfgace remodeling, elasticity/plasticity, and all that stuff.
Mark H.
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Post by Jack ( Yorkshire) on Oct 15, 2010 2:05:59 GMT -5
I Use Tripoly after 1000 grit and it realy get a great shine on the rocks
Jack Yorkshire uk
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Post by llana2go on Oct 15, 2010 8:10:44 GMT -5
I also use Tripoli after 1000 and get a good shine on the rocks with it. I bet if I let them roll in the tripoli another two weeks or so, I might not even need to polish, except I like to get as close to one of the "James" shines as I can.
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,466
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Post by Sabre52 on Oct 15, 2010 10:13:39 GMT -5
I use a four step process and use tripoli after the 110/220 ( for step 3). Works fine for me.....Mel
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Oct 15, 2010 10:55:29 GMT -5
For all rocks?
Dr Joe
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 15, 2010 12:49:59 GMT -5
I'm guessing you run the 120/220 until it breaks down instead of using 500F, Mel?
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,466
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Post by Sabre52 on Oct 15, 2010 16:28:56 GMT -5
Dr. Joe: For quartz family gems like agate and jasper. I throw in an extra 500F step sometimes with softer stones or things like tiger eye but usually I only do the harder stuff so the four step system works dandy.
John: I run the fine grind 110/220 five to six days in the vibe or two weeks in the rotary so it does break down well......Mel
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Post by Jack ( Yorkshire) on Oct 17, 2010 1:57:18 GMT -5
Hi Mel
Thanks for adding the PS that makes sense and will help the Newbies a lot .
Jack Yorkshire uk
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roxmonket
off to a rocking start
Member since March 2010
Posts: 6
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Post by roxmonket on Oct 22, 2010 15:48:27 GMT -5
Hmm, interesting. Good discussion. Skipping the 500F is an interesting idea. I've heard people on this board discuss omitting the 120/220 and going right from (a probably somewhat extended) coarse to something around 500. I've also heard others say they feel the 120/220 is the most important grind, setting up a good base for the final steps.
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quartz
Cave Dweller
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,341
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Post by quartz on Oct 23, 2010 9:37:50 GMT -5
A huge advantage to us all, is that on this forum, we can "observe" all kinds of polishing procedures that work. This gives a better-than-guessing method of getting that great shine on a problem load. Here, we normally run each stage 2 weeks, polish w/tripoli after 220, and then burnish with a heavy soap/water mix; polish and burnish well padded. We use rotary tumblers.
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