bgast1
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since July 2010
Posts: 1,076
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Post by bgast1 on Nov 2, 2010 15:58:02 GMT -5
While on the 325 grit disc, does that mean that I should not move to the 600 grit disc? Is there a such thing as removing every single scratch? If so, what is the determining factor on an really good cab?
I've been at this cab for over an hour on the 325 grit disc and not all of the scratches are coming out but surprisingly the cab is starting to shine.
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 2, 2010 16:06:59 GMT -5
If it is a scratch it will sand out. If it is a "healed fracture" it won't. If it is a scratch it will be more noticeable as you progress.
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bgast1
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since July 2010
Posts: 1,076
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Post by bgast1 on Nov 2, 2010 16:09:41 GMT -5
Then it may be time to move on to the 600 grit wheel?
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 2, 2010 16:18:37 GMT -5
Try it. When I have stubborn scratches I color them in with magic marker or grease pencil. Makesit easier to see the scratch when wet.
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Post by Hard Rock Cafe on Nov 2, 2010 16:52:06 GMT -5
You might also take a step back to the 220. If it's a scratch left from a hard disk or wheel, the 220 will take it out.
Chuck
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 2, 2010 17:10:47 GMT -5
He is using a new Ameritool unit. 180 hard lap, 325, 600, 1200 diamond sanding discs, 14,000 diamond compound. If it is a deep scratch caused by the tile saw maybe the 180 would take it out. Anything the 180 leaves should be removable with the 325.
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rallyrocks
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since November 2005
Posts: 1,507
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Post by rallyrocks on Nov 2, 2010 18:24:32 GMT -5
Try it. When I have stubborn scratches I color them in with magic marker or grease pencil. Makesit easier to see the scratch when wet. Careful with that technique, as fractures can wick marker ink deep in to where it never comes out, then again if you have a fracture in your rock it isn't going to make a good cab anyway. My advise would be to get a 10X loupe and look closely- you should be able to tell if what you're seeing is scratches that are consistent with the stage you are working (in my experience back when I could still see with my naked eye- 325 will often leave some that are visible to the naked eye) or if they are deeper and leftover from a previous stage- if the latter- you need to back it up one disk, remove the offending scratch and then proceed...
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Post by bobby1 on Nov 2, 2010 18:37:50 GMT -5
If I have scratches that are too deep for the current sanding disc/wheel to remove I always go back a step. More time on the same wheel will continue to have the same results - the scratch still remains. I always dry the cab frequently and look for scratches under a bright, clear bulb. They show up very effectively that way. Bob
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elementary
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since February 2006
Posts: 1,077
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Post by elementary on Nov 2, 2010 20:33:10 GMT -5
In addition to the light, I use a gigantic lens while holding the stone at an angle to check for marks. (I used to have better eyesight but the combination of reading these posts everyday added to staring down at a shiny rock for scratches under a bright lamp has rendered my eyes a tired mass of wrinkles...it has nothing to do with age or too much TV)
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bgast1
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since July 2010
Posts: 1,076
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Post by bgast1 on Nov 2, 2010 21:09:35 GMT -5
The scratches that I am seeing are very light like I was polishing with a grit like scouring powder. The same type scratches you sometimes see on stainless steel in appearance. Nothing appearing too deep. The stone still shines well.
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