travlinrose
off to a rocking start
Member since April 2010
Posts: 14
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Post by travlinrose on Dec 13, 2010 19:20:53 GMT -5
:help: I do not really understand the world of saw blades... As I said in a previous thread, I am getting a refurbished HP 8" saw. When I need to replace the saw blade, which would be soon, I don't want to get the 'wrong" blade.
What does sintered mean? Why get continuous instead of notched?
B-D says the warranty is voided if you use water instead of oil. Are there blades that are better to use in water for some reason?
If used in water, is "tool cool" the additive to prevent rust?
I should also clarify I am using it primarily for trimming, but I may have some small agates or rocks to cut small slabs... not over 2"- I understand that.
So how do you know which size is best? .025. or .032 or .060?? I will be cutting mostly agate and jasper- some pretty hard stuff.
I think that is everything I wanted to ask...
Where is the saw wizard?
Thanks!!!
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Post by deb193redux on Dec 13, 2010 19:42:32 GMT -5
I think .032, but I favor thicker so I can abuse the blade a bit. I have to wonder if that warranty disclaimer applies to the 8" - I only heard it for larger blades. sintered is the best method of bonding diamonds to metal. www.ukam.com/metal_bond.htmdraining the water is the best way to prevent rust. high carbon, typically crimped, blades rust a lot. stainless steel not so much
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Dec 13, 2010 19:44:40 GMT -5
What does sintered mean? It's a process to bond the diamond to the core. they are usually the more expensive ones, but last longer if you don't jam the blade. Why get continuous instead of notched?Continuous causes less chipping, notched spaces (gullets) cool better and remove the rock slurry, but causes more chipping. B-D says the warranty is voided if you use water instead of oil. Are there blades that are better to use in water for some reason?The blade will rust and possibly not get cooled sufficiently. If used in water, is "tool cool" the additive to prevent rust?The tool cool fluid I know is used by itself. So how do you know which size is best? .025. or .032 or .060?? How much material do you want to waste? If the material is cheap, the thick blade will be less trouble. Dr Joe .
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,487
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Post by Sabre52 on Dec 13, 2010 19:52:02 GMT -5
Yeah, I like thicker blades for agate and jasper. They last longer before dishing and take much more abuse and the material you're cutting is cheaper so the waste is not that important. I always cool with oil. It's effective and prevents rust plus gives longer blade life. I find sintered, continuous rim blades cut fast and smooth but in the 8 inch size, a good notched rim like MK or Barranca are also real good. Notched rims are easier to repair if damaged or dished. I use both and really don't have a preference as both are good in smaller sizes. For big blades ( 18-24") I prefer the sintered continuous rim blades.....Mel
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jcinpc
has rocks in the head
Member since April 2009
Posts: 722
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Post by jcinpc on Dec 13, 2010 20:31:31 GMT -5
8 and 10 inch blades for trimming are fine with water, I use water for my 16 too. Use a drop of dish soap in it and drain after use. For the bigger blade I use rust inhibitor, thats the name got it from a machine shop, around $35 for a gallon
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Post by johnjsgems on Dec 13, 2010 20:43:58 GMT -5
All blades cool better with oil. I think BD/MK wants oil used in their equipment due to the corrosion of metal parts with water. If I forget to dump the water in my 4" rim saw I have a rusty blade bottom in the morning. On a metal bodied saw you are saturating all parts with water which eventually wipes out the bearing on the tank side. A good water soluble coolant (Covington green coolant, Lube Cool or Roc-Cut) works well and slows down the corrosion but I would still not leave it in the saw when done. Blade thickness has been covered pretty well but I second the .032" 303C continuous rim. The notched rims Mel mentioned are no longer being made and closest thing is the crimped edge Chinese blades. If you have a power feed I wouldn't use anything thinner. If you are hand trimming thinner blades would be good to save valuable rock.
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,487
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Post by Sabre52 on Dec 14, 2010 20:42:02 GMT -5
Shoot! I really liked the MK 301 Gem King notched rim model. It still shows in my catalogs. Sorry to hear they've discontinued it as it was one of the best blades I've ever used, even better on agate that the MK 303 continuous rim.....Mel
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Post by lonetreestudios on Dec 14, 2010 21:16:45 GMT -5
Not to hijack, but anybody had any experience with the BD 303S in the larger sizes? Lucked out and scored a 24" saw that will need a new blade in a while. Mostly gonna just be splitting up the big ones to go on my 16" Covi, so mostly interested in durability, but looks like a tough blade.
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Post by johnjsgems on Dec 14, 2010 21:25:35 GMT -5
Mel, the replacement blade kept the same name/model/prices. It is made in Korea by same factory that makes the 303C. Instead of a smooth continuous rim like the 303C, the rim has tapered "segments" like edges around the rim. Everyone says it is even better than the 303C. Because of the tough tool steel core they are far superior to the old red Gem Kings. I have the red blades on two of my saws and like them. They had to use mild steel to enable the notches being rolled into the core so they could dish easily. No more blade furnace so no more cheap blade retempering either. You can still find them by shopping dealers that had them in stock a long time or like me bought them during the close out sale they had 2-3 years ago. I bought all they had left and sold them at 50% off list. Now I wish I had saved at least one of the 24" blades for my saw. You know what they say about hindsight.
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