incult
off to a rocking start
Member since October 2010
Posts: 24
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Post by incult on Jan 24, 2011 12:30:38 GMT -5
So, it looks like I have to learn the hard way about my little tumbler maintenance. This is how it looked this morning. Still running though... The problem seems to be a big perforation in the centre of the lid. And here's the dumb question...is this supposed to happen? You guys have more experience with this. Can you please tell me if this is normal and if yes, how can I prevent it? Do I have to change the lids after a certain period of time? Is there any chance that the barrel itself is going to perforate one day? I'm probably going to order some parts now. Any suggestions? Like number of barrels, number of lids, number of belts? anything else that I'm not thinking about? Attachments:
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incult
off to a rocking start
Member since October 2010
Posts: 24
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Post by incult on Jan 24, 2011 12:31:39 GMT -5
I forgot...any suggestions how to clean it. I really want to use it again.
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Post by jakesrocks on Jan 24, 2011 12:54:15 GMT -5
To begin with, wash your tumbler real good with soap and water. You may have to use a bunch of Q-Tips to clean the roller bearings. Those smaller Thumlers tumblers are notorious for wearing out the center of the lid. Order a couple of spares. The belts are some of the best, but it doesn't hurt to have a spare. Check the center of the lid between loads. If it starts to feel soft in the middle, replace it right away. Been there, done that with my 9 pound Thumlers. Had to learn the hard way. Oh, and make sure the motor is clean and dry before you plug it back in. Don
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incult
off to a rocking start
Member since October 2010
Posts: 24
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Post by incult on Jan 24, 2011 12:57:40 GMT -5
thanks don!
can I open the motor case, doesn't look like... and how about the barrel? is it gonna wear down? when do I replace it?
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snuffy
Cave Dweller
Member since May 2009
Posts: 4,319
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Post by snuffy on Jan 24, 2011 13:00:19 GMT -5
Thats exactly what happened to mine,except it was on the side away from the motor. I put a couple strips of duct tape over the hole, and applied plastidip over almost center half of the lid,the side that is inside the barrel, about 1/16 to 1/8 thick,and let it cure.I had to take a shaft off and take it apart as it was cemented solid.Need to get all the grit off everything.From now on,if I buy any more lids, I'll apply the plastidip before I use them.
snuffy
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Post by jakesrocks on Jan 24, 2011 13:04:59 GMT -5
Those Thumlers motors are hard to open up. They use some sort of spring clips on them. I've been lucky so far, and haven't had to open my motor yet. The barrels will outlive dozens of the lids. Thumlers rubber barrels are some of the best. Another thing you might want to buy a spare or 2 of is the elastic ring that holds the lid on. They stretch out after a while, and will allow the lid to pop off. Don
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incult
off to a rocking start
Member since October 2010
Posts: 24
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Post by incult on Jan 24, 2011 13:09:29 GMT -5
thank you guys!
if anybody asks...I'm in the basement cleaning the mess...
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Post by MyNewHobby on Jan 24, 2011 13:10:46 GMT -5
Do not feel bad. I think everyone of us have had our barrel blow their top. Mine happened only after 24 hours.
I have a Lortone 33B. In my case, I had not seated the rubber rimmed lid properly and the lid popped open. Black water everywhere and into my washing machine. I had my tumbler directly on top of the washer instead of on something in between the washer and tumbler.
Now I make sure the lid is seated/sealed with the edge of the barrel itself. I have not had another blow out.
Welcome to the wonderful world of rock tumbling!
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incult
off to a rocking start
Member since October 2010
Posts: 24
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Post by incult on Jan 24, 2011 14:18:52 GMT -5
snuffy...
that plastidip does it work? how resistant is to abrasion? or is just something temporary to get a new lid? saying you want to apply it on a new lid makes me think it should be quite resistant right?
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snuffy
Cave Dweller
Member since May 2009
Posts: 4,319
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Post by snuffy on Jan 24, 2011 14:25:58 GMT -5
I keep a can on hand, use it to repair barrels that are worn thin or have worn holes in them.I cant see any wear on it at the bottoms,been holding up good for me. Just let it cure good.Others on here can tell you,thats where I got the info.
snuffy
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Post by 150FromFundy on Jan 25, 2011 8:59:25 GMT -5
Weclome to the club! In my first year, I `popped` two lids and cut through another. Clean the grit, dry the tumbler, and get things running again. As long as grit didn`t get into the motor bearings, you should be OK. I beleive the motor bearings are sealed to prevent grit from getting in them, so there you go.
If you run your tumbler 24/7 you should be able to cut through a barrel lid every year. The lid is a $3 replacement part from most suppliers. I put a number decal on my barrel lids. When the lid cuts through, the decal prevents the spill. The numbers ID the barrel so I can keep things straight.
To reduce lid `pop-off`, I fill the barrels with hot tap water, then close normally. As the water cools, the air pressure inside the barrel drops a little compaired to the air pressure outside the barrel. This small differential tends to suck the lid closed, rather than pop it open.
Darryl.
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charles kuchar
spending too much on rocks
getting ready for the second coming
Member since November 2010
Posts: 300
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Post by charles kuchar on Jan 25, 2011 10:16:35 GMT -5
i have learned to put the lid opposite to where the motor is located. i have had a hole in one of the white lids that came with the ar12 tumbler. then i ordert the black lids from therockshed. they are better than the white ones but i finally had a hole in one after a couple of years of tumbling. i got a 12# thumbler tumbler from the rockshed last fall. it had a white lid and punctured that on the third batch of rough. shawn said he only had the white ones to replace it with so my mind got in gear and i made a couple of plexiglas lids because i think they are strong. so far i have been running 4 months with the plexiglass 24/7 and i have no wear on the lid so far. a benefit is you can see the water level in the barrel. hope that helps? charlie
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TumbleMeCrazy
starting to shine!
You CRACK me up....
Member since January 2011
Posts: 44
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Post by TumbleMeCrazy on Jan 25, 2011 17:08:29 GMT -5
Wow thanks for the tips I will start inspecting mine more closely. Bummer Incult hope it turns out okay for you.
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Post by tkrueger3 on Jan 25, 2011 17:55:13 GMT -5
Yep, like most everybody here who has run Thumler's small barrels, "been there, done that!" I've had the lid leak, come off, and the same hole as yours. Shawn at The Rock Shed keeps spares on hand, and he's real good about shipping them fast. I say this from plenty of experience! By the way - I have the one with 2 of the 3-lb barrels, but it's an older one. The motor isn't inside a housing like yours - it is held onto a bracket with 2 machine screws and nuts. I took it off, then cleaned everything else, put a drop of oil into the oiling hole on the motor bearings, and put it all back together. It's still running. Good luck with it! Tom
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Post by rocklicker on Jan 28, 2011 20:14:01 GMT -5
I've had that happen with older Lortone barrels. I don't buy anything new, so I'm used to it. Keeping an eye on the lids has helped me. Steve
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carloscinco
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since July 2008
Posts: 1,639
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Post by carloscinco on Jan 29, 2011 18:15:28 GMT -5
The white lids for my AR6 barrel holed through a couple of times. I bought a sheet of quarter inch thick rubber gasket material at a gasket supplier and I glue a circle of rubber on the white lid of my AR6 barrel. I used gorilla glue. I cut the rubber so it's about 5/16ths smaller in diameter than the lid so it does not interfere with the sealing edge. The lid goes on with the rubber side in. It's been on for more than a year of 24/7coarse grinding. No more splooge on my work table except for when the rubber o-ring gets weak.
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Rockdogger
starting to shine!
Member since October 2010
Posts: 28
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Post by Rockdogger on Jan 29, 2011 21:06:54 GMT -5
I feel sorry for you with the lid failure and the mess. Your model Thumler's Model T also uses a sleeve type bearing. It is just bare metal mated to bare metal. And there is a lot of slurry on that bearing surface. If that had happened to me I think I would drill the rivets out that hold the motor housing on the frame, remove the motor, and disassemble the motor and clean the bearing surfaces very well. and then replace the rivets with screws when assembling again. If that sounds to overwhelming to do, I would spray the heck out of that front bearing surface with some WD40 while spinning the shaft with your fingers, hoping that all the debri is cleaned out of it. If you don't get it clean, the motor well start squeeling after the bearing surfaces are worn. I hope you the best of luck with it.--Rich
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stefan
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,095
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Post by stefan on Feb 2, 2011 21:16:56 GMT -5
Been there done that. Never fun. Make sure to point the lid away from the motor. Seems obvious now doesn't it? Also I will super glue plexi lid liners over the hole. Holds up very well and allows me to not have to measure and cut a perfect circle. I have worn out a far number of the black lids and once they get thin I just clean them up and glue a plexi patch in place. Blow outs are a mess but mymachines have handled them just fine and other than a lengthy clean up. No real damage was done
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