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Post by Roller on Feb 3, 2011 20:54:55 GMT -5
So first I wanna Thank everyone who helped guide me with information they provided in my threads ... Everything was analyzed way too much ...lol but in the end I bought a brandy new Raytech alp-10s .. 10"saw w/ auto feed ... comes with a green blazer blade .. Since it is still like 30 degrees outside ..Iam not really sure when I will get a chance to use it ...So I have time to talk sawblades if anyone wants to join ... lol Well basically from what I gather so far is that I am being supplied with a pretty basic sawblade ... I read all about the yellow and the black blades they make ... Any reviews on those ? Also the MK blades ???are they the best which one ?? Any other saw info you have or experience is greatly welcomed and Thanks again ... Greg (roller)
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firewalker45
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since August 2006
Posts: 929
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Post by firewalker45 on Feb 3, 2011 21:04:46 GMT -5
I love the MK 301's. Have fun and I hope it warms up soon for all of us. Daniel
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Post by deb193redux on Feb 4, 2011 0:01:22 GMT -5
the 303 is good too
check out Kingsly's sale prices on 301 or 303.
maybe you can sell the blazer if you do not use it, and get some of the cost back
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spokanetim
has rocks in the head
Member since October 2009
Posts: 656
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Post by spokanetim on Feb 4, 2011 0:14:46 GMT -5
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Post by Rockoonz on Feb 4, 2011 0:48:39 GMT -5
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Post by catmandewe on Feb 4, 2011 1:07:55 GMT -5
I would keep 2 blades on hand, one good sintered blade and one cheap chinese blade for learning how to cut stuff with and for cutting stuff you don't wanna run the good blade through. I happen to have both on hand if you need some let me know.
Have a great day.................Tony
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Post by johnjsgems on Feb 4, 2011 10:01:35 GMT -5
Greg, with the power feed you really should use a .040" blade (either the 303C or 301 would be very good). If you will hand cut valuable rough maybe a .032" or something like a Proslicer.
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Post by Roller on Feb 4, 2011 10:48:42 GMT -5
What is the difference between a notched blade and a continuos ? my 7 inch hot dog is notched and that thing kicks but ..
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Post by frane on Feb 4, 2011 12:03:27 GMT -5
Greg, I am so glad to hear you will be a slabbing king soon! I can't help you with the blade since I have not bought a replacement for mine yet and hope to avoid that for awhile. Fran
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Post by deb193redux on Feb 4, 2011 13:15:01 GMT -5
this listing is confusing. it appears to be for 10 pcs (pieces) which would be only $5.60/blade Also the 250mm x 7mm is about 10" diameter and presumably 7mm rim height, but what is the kerf and core thickness?
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Post by deb193redux on Feb 4, 2011 13:19:34 GMT -5
this is a good price ($48). The comparable 303C 10-x-032 is $70 at Kingsly's sale prices. But, the .032 thickness may not perform well. For a new saw owner/operator, who will be cutting a variety of hardnesses, I would recommend a thicker .040 or .050 blade to help avoid bending and dishing as you get used tothe saw's capabilities. You might ask Ron (rle) if he has the thicker blades at these kinds of low prices, becasue the .040 is $72 and the .050 is $95 at Kingsly. IF he had a 303C 10x040 for $50 or even a 10x050 for $60, ti would be a good deal.
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Post by johnjsgems on Feb 4, 2011 13:26:52 GMT -5
Ron stocked up last Winter when BD had blades at higher discount. He doesn't always have every size at the super discount.
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Post by deb193redux on Feb 4, 2011 13:28:03 GMT -5
What is the difference between a notched blade and a continuous ? my 7 inch hot dog is notched and that thing kicks but .. there is a lot of confusion about notched because some folks use that term for "segmented" or slits in the continuous rim, and other people use notched to mean the "crimped" method of bonding diamonds. Whenever you see the term notched, you need to do a little work to see if it is crimped or not. The slits or segments help with cooling and cleaning of the cut. BUt the present some oportunity for the blade to bend in just one segment and the result can cut flesh. the crimped type are often cheaper (but the MK 301 is not cheaper than the MK 303), they are medium in the #mm of diamonds before the blade wears down. The kerf is generally thicker then the core, which can keep down friction in the cut. The braised-bond type (like ProSlicer) has the fewest mm of diamonds. The sintered type often has 7mm or 10mm of diamonds and may last the longest. The kerf and core are often closer in size, which may not help as much with friction in the cut.
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Post by deb193redux on Feb 4, 2011 13:43:03 GMT -5
Ron stocked up last Winter when BD had blades at higher discount. He doesn't always have every size at the super discount. John is generally too well behaved to hawk his prices here, so I will point out that his price on the 303C 10-x-032 is only $5 more than rle's ($53) and he does have the more practical 10-x-040 for only $55, which is $17 lower than Kingsley's sale price. I have gotten many items from John and enjoyed good service, and, when he could, RTH discounts on some items. I also generally avoid rle because I dislike Ron's caustic personality. He generally offers great discounts, but can be a real jerk. The 303C 10-x-040 blade from John may be your best bet. Can't beat the price in a continuous rim. I gather you plan to do vise fed slabbing only, because in an earlier post you mentioned a high priority for perfectly parallel slabs. I use a .050 blade because I set aside the vise and do a lot of hand feeding, and I need a blade that is thick enough to take the greater abuse. But, .040 should be good for your setup. At this price, you might just keep the Green Blazer blade and use it when the rough looks fracture prone or in some other way likely to be hard on the blade.
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spokanetim
has rocks in the head
Member since October 2009
Posts: 656
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Post by spokanetim on Feb 4, 2011 13:51:45 GMT -5
Hi Deb, yes they are 10 pcs for $5.60 per blade but once you add shipping they will probably be closer to $10 per blade. Yes 250 mm is 7 mm smaller than 10" but that's hardly a factor. It's .7 mm kerf and the core's only slightly thinner. They have different thicknesses and I'm not saying they are as long lasting as MK but my experience with the 200 mm .6 mm is they are 3/4's as good and I totally abuse them because they are cheap. They also have 250 mm .6 mm at only $3.03 per blade plus shipping.
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Post by tkrueger3 on Feb 4, 2011 14:28:59 GMT -5
Greg, if you decide to offload the Blazer blade, please let me know - I would buy it from you to keep as my alternate blade.
Tom
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juzwuz
has rocks in the head
Member since April 2010
Posts: 526
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Post by juzwuz on Feb 4, 2011 15:45:54 GMT -5
this is a good price ($48). The comparable 303C 10-x-032 is $70 at Kingsly's sale prices. But, the .032 thickness may not perform well. For a new saw owner/operator, who will be cutting a variety of hardnesses, I would recommend a thicker .040 or .050 blade to help avoid bending and dishing as you get used tothe saw's capabilities. You might ask Ron (rle) if he has the thicker blades at these kinds of low prices, becasue the .040 is $72 and the .050 is $95 at Kingsly. IF he had a 303C 10x040 for $50 or even a 10x050 for $60, ti would be a good deal. cgi.ebay.com/rle-10-x-040-PROFESSIONAL-Continuous-Rim-DIAMOND-BLADE-/400190053703?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d2d2f9d47I got the .040 thick blade from Ron along with some expando drums (6 inch and 8 inch). Didn't have any problems.
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Post by deb193redux on Feb 4, 2011 23:29:21 GMT -5
Hi Deb, yes they are 10 pcs for $5.60 per blade but once you add shipping they will probably be closer to $10 per blade. Yes 250 mm is 7 mm smaller than 10" but that's hardly a factor. It's .7 mm kerf and the core's only slightly thinner. They have different thicknesses and I'm not saying they are as long lasting as MK but my experience with the 200 mm .6 mm is they are 3/4's as good and I totally abuse them because they are cheap. They also have 250 mm .6 mm at only $3.03 per blade plus shipping. but .7mm is like .027, which is IMHO way too thin. mayne in a 6" trim saw blade for precious material, but less than .032 on a 10" saw is just not advisable
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Post by Roller on Feb 5, 2011 0:15:13 GMT -5
Okay yes you are right I was confused my 7" hot dog tile saw blade is segmented not notched ... I get it now but I still dont copmpletely understand the difference between what they do .. the notched and the continuos that is ... The green blazer I get I think is .32 by the way... Iam thinking getting a .40 mk 303 or 301 down the line ..sometime .. and maybe even a yellow blazer since there so thin and so cheap for stuff i really dont wanna lose much from ..... down the line of course ... to start ill use the supplied blade unless i hear i shouldnt ...
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Post by deb193redux on Feb 5, 2011 10:11:14 GMT -5
don't go thinner than .040 in 10"
the thinner blades are for careful trimming - not slabbing. The autofeed can put enough pressure on a .025 or .020 10" blade to bend it in half.
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