chromenut
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since December 2009
Posts: 1,971
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Post by chromenut on Feb 16, 2011 13:30:32 GMT -5
I know this is set up to be used with water, but does using a very light oil help extend the life of the blade any? Just curious since I plan on doing a complete disassembly and rebuild thought it would be a good time to shift to oil, if it makes sense to. Also, I've seen that several of you have repainted your saws. What kind of paint would you suggest to hold up in this kind of environment? Marine paint? Enamel vs. Acriylic? etc. Thanks in advance, I'm just getting all hyped about my new saw....
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stefan
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,113
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Post by stefan on Feb 16, 2011 20:10:56 GMT -5
Oil is great if the water pump will handle it (most won't). I'm not sure what paint people are usiing.
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Post by deb193redux on Feb 16, 2011 20:56:25 GMT -5
oil without an enclosure makes no sense
you have to stand in front of that thing
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Post by johnjsgems on Feb 16, 2011 21:10:14 GMT -5
It wasn't pretty, but I covered the metal pan on my home built drop saw with aluminum cooler coating. It seals it as well. I used Covington water soluble coolant in that saw but mostly cut soft stones. My MK 101 doesn't throw water forward but leaves a large splash on either side. No problem hosing away rock residue/water from my driveway. Oil would be a different story. Yes, oil is better for the blade but I would sacrifice a little blade life for the convenience of water.
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Post by sandsman1 on Feb 16, 2011 21:58:05 GMT -5
yea id say without a hood you and everything in a few feet will be coated with oil haha -- even my panther lortone lets anything close to it get a light coat of oil i can see the mist seeping out from under the hood and if i open right after a cut i get a cloud of oil mist like steam -- id do like john said and use the water soluble coolant its makes the water slick and does help with blade life and rust-- i use it in my 8 inch trim saw and unless i abuse the blade they last pretty long --i don't think the oil is worth the mess butt hats just me -- i hate cleaning the saw so i don't wanna have to clean everything around it too haha
Ive herd people say they had the tank and parts powder coated wile they had them apart but thats costly if i had to repaint mine id go for something strong like maybe the garage floor paint they say it last and resist allot of stuff like oil so it should be strong-- a couple weeks after i got my new lortone it started to bubble and peel you could see they pissed on one thin coat and prob didn't prep the metal, so id clean it very good cant remember the name of the stuff but its for cleaning metal before you paint, it gets off all oil and finger prints we used it on cars right before they got there first coat, it evaporates really fast, and spray a few light coats and let each one dry, not just one thick one what ever you use
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Feb 17, 2011 9:10:33 GMT -5
Yea, but nothing in the whole shop ever rusts if you use oil ;D
sandsman1, One I used in my shop was called Metal Prep, check out the POR-15 product line of rust proof paints, rock hard and non-porous.
You can add an oil mist recover system to a saw with a cover rather easy to.
Dr Joe
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Post by deb193redux on Feb 17, 2011 10:08:49 GMT -5
yes, enclosures are possible. but the whole point was to accept the limitations (and there are serious limitations) of a construction/tile saw to avoid the high cost of used lapidary saws.
once you spend money and time on a gravity feed, clamp, cross feed, enclosure, paint job, and whatever else, this $200 saw becomes a $450 saw, not to mention the delay in getting its full use. what is possible can never dictate what is advisable, only constrain it.
I suggest using it with water, outside on warm days. Run plenty of fresh water into the system so that what the pump is circulating is relatively clear, and the table is kept washed of crumbs.
accept that fact that you are going to go through 10" construction blades with water much faster than people go through 10" lapidary blades with oi. Keep this in mind when purchasing blades.
initially select rough that has a good flat spot on the bottom - especially if you have not yet rigged a clamp. this design is very prone to grabbing the work and binding it against the table or throwing it out the back. I used saws like this for several years cutting hard rock seabed cores on a research drillship. Our storekeeper had a hard time stocking enough blades because we were always dishing and dinging them when rocks slipped. we used .032 blades because the scientific material was precious, you should go for thicker blades that are more forgivign of the abusive way you will use the say. - and anythingother than the large flat tiles it was designed for is technically abusive.
I am not even sure I would paint it because it is going to be covered in rock snot and powdery residue soon enough. the focus should be on getting use out of it and learning the features you want in your next/other saw. that and enjoying it of course.
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Post by johnjsgems on Feb 23, 2011 14:27:58 GMT -5
One tip I learned when cutting is to lay the rock on a piece of 1/2" styrofoam packing. Keeps the rock from rocking while cutting. Good way to recycle as well.
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charles kuchar
spending too much on rocks
getting ready for the second coming
Member since November 2010
Posts: 300
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Post by charles kuchar on Feb 23, 2011 17:55:41 GMT -5
that tip of the styrofoam is and excellent suggestion for me. i know i will be able to clamp the rock in the vice a lot better. at least i think it will. thank you john. charlie
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