slapdasherie
starting to shine!
Member since February 2011
Posts: 25
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Post by slapdasherie on Jul 12, 2011 14:24:46 GMT -5
I getting better at realizing when a rock is done with the first tumble. I was impatient at first, and advanced a lot of rocks to the second tumble, and then I kicked them back to the rough grit again after I realized just how many cracks and pits still needed to be ground out. So I think I'm figuring that part out.
How do you know if a rock is done with the second, third, or fourth tumble? Is there anything in particular that I need to see/look for, or is it just a certain amount of time for each tumble and then advance it along?
Also, if a pit/crack is too deep to grind out, what's the best way to make sure grains of grit aren't still stuck inside? I was using a toothpick and paintbrush to clean some of the rocks.
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Post by FrogAndBearCreations on Jul 12, 2011 14:46:21 GMT -5
What I look for is uniformity in appearance, all looking the same both wet and dry before I move them up in stage of grit.
they will have the worst look in the rough grind stage, thats where you sort the ones that are ready to move from the ones that need to go back through stage 1 again. I wait till I get enough to fill the stage 2 from the ones out of the stage 1 and do the same for each stage. I like there to be no pits or big cracks before moving up to stage 2 and most of the time pre grind out the defects that are the worst when loading up stage 1 tumble.
On a deep pit or crack I usually cut the stone there to make two if it is big enough or just keep it with that grit as filler
just look for uniformity in the appearance
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88pathoffroad
spending too much on rocks
Oregon ROCKS!
Member since August 2008
Posts: 305
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Post by 88pathoffroad on Jul 12, 2011 16:43:22 GMT -5
I'd say to go with your personal preference. Some people like to turn agate chunks with 90-degree corners into jellybeans before polishing while others like their rocks rounded off but still showing bumps, and so on.
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Post by Jack ( Yorkshire) on Jul 15, 2011 1:07:12 GMT -5
I give the 220 G (2nd) stage an good run as I think this is the foundation of your polish and to get all the rough scratches off
But as the above thread says "Its go with your personal preference) feel the smoothness ??
Some Like a natural look Like Pet wood its great to have the relief of a rough polish on end grain
Cut if you have a deep seam , then grind edges a bit to help take the "cut " look away
I run a lot"O" and dont add some pre cuts till 600G to get a desired effect but thats on sawn and ground rocks
Ask this question to a 100 RTH members and you will get a lot of different answers , - - - Personal preference .
a Tip--- just keep a record , then you will be able to get the same result again,
have a good day
Jack
Yorkshire uk
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 15, 2011 7:37:20 GMT -5
If you do remove all flaws before step 2 then 7-10 days in a good tumbler should work for each subsequent step. Like Jack said, keep a log of what works for you.
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slapdasherie
starting to shine!
Member since February 2011
Posts: 25
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Post by slapdasherie on Jul 21, 2011 5:59:39 GMT -5
Assuming that I don't have any tools, other than my tumbler, what would be your recommendation? If I need to cut/grind out deep imperfections or pits, what should I get? My husband has a variety of tools, so it's possible that he may have something I could use. I'm definitely still in the amateur/hobbyist camp, so I don't need anything really expensive or big.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 21, 2011 7:39:02 GMT -5
A cheap tile saw seems to be tool of choice. A bench grinder would work for grinding out flaws if he can rig up a way to safely keep the rock wet/rock dust down (or wears a respirator mask).
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jspencer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 929
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Post by jspencer on Jul 21, 2011 23:36:20 GMT -5
What I have done is to watch craigslist for a tool I can pick up cheap. I recently got a 10" professional tile saw for $50. With a few additions and modifications I can make good use of it for rocks. I also bought a radial arm saw for the same price to add to my woodworking tools. I was too late for the 40 lb. rock tumbler that went for $65. Dangit!!
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Post by connrock on Jul 22, 2011 6:48:31 GMT -5
I've read this post a few times and decided to add my 2 cents worth here,,,,,,
From what I've seen here over the years a polished rock can be a lot of things and I guess it all goes back to that old saying,,,,"Beauty is in the eye of the beholder".
I sometimes cringe when I see photos of some polished rocks and yet they get raves form other members but other times I see polished rocks that are true gems!
"What do I look for"
Well,,,,,,,,I don't take a rock out of rough unless I can picture that rock all polished up with NO flaws of any kind,,,,,,,
Someone has knocked a hole in your living room wall and it must be patched.You cut back the sheet rock to find the studs,,,,buy sheet rock to fill the hole,,,,sheet rock nails,,,,taping compound,,,,taping trowel,,,,etc,etc,etc,,,,,, Now you finally get that piece of sheet rock in and have to tape it.You have a choice here,,,, You can either slop the taping compound on and smear it around a little and say "That's good enough for me",,,or you can do a professional job where NO ONE will ever know that wall was patched!
In tumbling you buy a tumbler,,,grit,,,polish,,,,plastic pellets,,,,ceramic media,powdered laundry soap,,,,borax and finally some rough rocks to tumble!
The decision it TOTALLY up to you as to when to take a rock out of rough!
connrock
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slapdasherie
starting to shine!
Member since February 2011
Posts: 25
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Post by slapdasherie on Jul 24, 2011 19:31:23 GMT -5
Connrock, that makes a lot of sense. I think it will likely take me a while to figure out precisely what I like best in my tumbles, but everyone has given me some good pointers to better understand what to look for. Thank you!
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Post by paulshiroma on Jul 24, 2011 23:04:36 GMT -5
I also suffer from being impatient so, to connrock's point, I dug up an old tool I used to use when I was into HO modeling - it's one of those large magnifying glasses on the pivot/swing arm that has a fluorescent light around it. It's helped me inspect the rocks between stages so I can see what to send back and what to move along. The first few batches came out nicely - to the naked eye - then I photographed them and you could see the imperfections. Really irritating.
None the less, I'm still pretty impatient. The folks here on the forum have been encouraging and considerate in their help as well.
Thanks Paul
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