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Post by rockrookie on Sept 2, 2011 19:54:36 GMT -5
here is the picture of saw that i just bought .... ![](http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq285/rockrookie_2008/037-9.jpg) ![](http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq285/rockrookie_2008/040-9.jpg) ![](http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq285/rockrookie_2008/039-10.jpg) ![](http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq285/rockrookie_2008/038-10.jpg) my main question is the blade ....it is flexible ... also it is dull . i could not fell any grit on it ... i filled tank with water not saw oil .. it did not cut at all . i don't think oil would have helped . if anyone has experience with this saw . i would be thankful for advice . or what would be a proper replacement blade . and should i use oil or water . i use water on my workforce saw . Thanks !!! --paul
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Post by jakesrocks on Sept 2, 2011 20:29:53 GMT -5
Looks like one of the very thin blades used for cutting precious materials. Looks to be about a 6". That or you have awfully big hands. Try cutting an old piece of cinder block, or a piece of obsidian. If there's any diamond left on that blade, this will "sharpen" it by exposing fresh diamond. John should be able to fix you up with the proper blade for slabbing, and advise weather to use oil or water with an additive. Maybe someone on here will have a vice for an old HP saw that you can get for a decent price. That old HP saw will probably outlive you. Unlike the saws they build now.
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Post by beefjello on Sept 2, 2011 20:36:58 GMT -5
Nice find Paul!
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Post by johnjsgems on Sept 2, 2011 21:00:40 GMT -5
Looks like a Pro Slicer plated blade. The only diamond would be a thin layer around edge. If you don't see any rim it is worn down to the core. Any good 6" blade with 5/8" arbor would work just fine. If you are new to cutting I would recommend something fairly stiff like a BD303C in .032". Once you master cutting I would use a .020" thickness. .020" is thick enough to cut straight but thin enough to avoid a lot of kerf loss. If you cut really expensive rough .014" is thinnest sintered blade but easily ruined and I can't cut a straight line with one with my dainty hands and gentle disposition.
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Sept 2, 2011 23:27:03 GMT -5
Nice saw Paul! Is a cabbing unit next?! ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png) Nate Wait a second! Is that a vertical lap on the tailgate next to the saw?!!
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Post by Roller on Sept 2, 2011 23:40:57 GMT -5
finally !!!!!!! glad u got a hp ... i love my hp unit !!!!
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TByrd
fully equipped rock polisher
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Have you performed your random act of kindness?
Member since December 2010
Posts: 1,350
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Post by TByrd on Sept 3, 2011 1:43:48 GMT -5
I think that I have the same Model in the basement which has been awesome, I have had it for a little over a year now and it still has the same blade that I put on it. I use water in both of my saws and my husband uses oil in his.
Nate it is a vertical lap, that would be nice, is it for sale? I have a horizontal lap, want to trade?
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Post by FrogAndBearCreations on Sept 3, 2011 10:22:35 GMT -5
I have the 10" saw of the same make and am using it as an oil saw for the harder stuff - the pro slicer blade cannot take excessive force in pushing stone your cutting into it or you will dish it quickly. When nice and sharp it will cut quickly so yours is either very dull or at the end of it life.
They do heat up also if you cut the harder stones that are thick. I have this blade and use it for cutting my turquoise and veriscite and gem facet grade stones.
When cutting you have to let the blade determine the speed it cuts through whatever your cutting up and resist the temptation to push into it
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Post by Rockoonz on Sept 3, 2011 23:25:31 GMT -5
You don't need oil for a 6 inch saw, but a cutting additive to the water will make the blades last longer and prevent rust.
Lee
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