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Post by stoner on Nov 18, 2011 2:53:35 GMT -5
Back in 2005 or so, I purchased an 18" saw, and the guy threw in a couple milk crates of rocks and an 8" Star Diamond/Barranca Diamond cabbing unite with Silicon Carbide wheels. The saw is still running, and, after changing the cabber over to diamond, the old gal has been an excellent machine. I've probably cut over 3,000 cabs, so now, it's my turn to give back to the machine. It's time I gave it new bearings and a thorough cleaning. It's a good thing they made this machine out of heavy duty steel(1/8"), cuz the rust has eaten halfway through in places. Here's a few pictures of the Rust bucket, half way through the rebuild. The rust was so bad, the last time I went to lift the top to replace a wheel, the rivets on the hinge broke off! So, the top has been stripped, sanded, wire brushed, and 2 coats of Rust Destroyer primer, and 3 coats of Rust-o-lium top coat. Next, the bottom part! But when I'm done, it will be good for another 7 years or more!
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rockhound97058
freely admits to licking rocks
Thundereggs - Oregons Official State Rock!
Member since January 2006
Posts: 760
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Post by rockhound97058 on Nov 18, 2011 3:16:28 GMT -5
Looks great - I love to rebuild old machines and bring them back to life. I often times use rustoleum "Hammered" paint. You can coat right over rust with this stuff.
An old 18" lortone I had one, I stripped it down, primed it with automotive epoxy primer inside and out and sprayed the hammered paint on it. You can use a thinner to thin out the paint an use a gun to spray it.
Happy Sanding!
Jason
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keystonecops
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since October 2010
Posts: 957
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Post by keystonecops on Nov 18, 2011 8:26:59 GMT -5
Lookn good so far, cant wait fer finishd pics. Later Clyde
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 18, 2011 13:38:54 GMT -5
That steel pan was the weak point of the old GP8. After only 20-30 years they would rust out. Fabricating costs were very high which is one reason the current GP-8 has a cast aluminum pan. Yours looks to be salvageable though. I've seen some used until big holes rusted through. The replacement pans were $300 or more. I'm a big fan of the hammered finish paints. It gives you a real professional looking job and goes over rust without a primer.
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robbiejohn
starting to shine!
Member since July 2010
Posts: 36
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Post by robbiejohn on Nov 18, 2011 19:22:25 GMT -5
Hey Stoner, your restoration work is stunning! I have two grinding/polishing machines to re-do and also an old slab saw. Being inexperienced, these jobs aren't at the top of my list, but I am gathering information. Couple of questions: You mention the top section had been "Stripped, sanded, wire-brushed" Were the actions in that order? Was the sanding done just with paper---or was it sand blasted? What does 'stripped' refer to---do you mean chemically stripped as in refinishing wooden furniture? My intuition would have said to do the wire brushing first. Anyway, sorry if these questions seem dumb. I'm sure your answers will help prevent lots of grief. Thanks in advance. Cheers! Robbiejohn
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Don
Cave Dweller
He wants you too, Malachi.
Member since December 2009
Posts: 2,616
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Post by Don on Nov 18, 2011 19:37:57 GMT -5
I recently refinished my GP8 as well, but it could use new bearings. where'd you get yours?
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Post by rocklicker on Nov 18, 2011 19:42:44 GMT -5
Wow Ed, that thing is amazing. It's seen many miles and countless cabs. It's like an old truck. It's great to see you bringing it back to its youthful days. The top half looks great. Thanks for the order of rust removal and paint. Great advise. I'll be doing that soon on my Lortone as well.
Nice to see you were able to get a close match on the blue also. Looking forward to seeing the bottom half done. Steve
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shermlock
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2011
Posts: 612
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Post by shermlock on Nov 19, 2011 22:31:49 GMT -5
I too have that machine. I've been looking for gaskets for the water gang valve for about a week now with no luck. I'd buy a new gang valve but I can't find those either. If you have sourced one or a place I can get 3/8 od x 3/16 id gaskets, let me know please! I've exhausted the big box stores and local hardwares looking for those gaskets...can't find them on the internet either. I'm thinking I am going to have to buy punches and try to make them myself. Scott
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Post by jakesrocks on Nov 19, 2011 22:42:58 GMT -5
Scott, have you tried neoprene O rings ? Any good hardware store should have them.
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shermlock
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2011
Posts: 612
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Post by shermlock on Nov 20, 2011 8:28:24 GMT -5
I did try the neoprene o rings but their internal diameter is not "tight" enough to seal against the outside diameter of the needle valve. Scott
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quartz
Cave Dweller
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,341
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Post by quartz on Nov 20, 2011 10:11:04 GMT -5
I see no response yet to "where to get the bearings"; got my replacements from Applied Industrial Technologies, used to be Bearings Inc. or King bearings, depending on the location.
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Post by stoner on Nov 21, 2011 16:32:30 GMT -5
Sorry not to answer your questions, been busy scraping the bottom pan! I got the bearings at Graingers, I think they were about the same price as ordering them from John.
robbiejohn: Yes, I first washed the unit, then with a wire brush on a drill, cleaned as much of the rust off as I could, then used a chemical stripper(for stripping furniture) on it to get it down to bare metal, then sanded and wire brushed it again. I used sand paper and only places I couldn't get to with the wire brush. There were some areas the rust wouldn't come off, that's why I used the primer I used. The bottom pan is now done, so I'll post pics in a while.
Scott: Three gaskets in my unit are still working, so I just cleaned them and put them back. But I had to replace one of them about 4 years ago and I used a small o-ring I had in my o-ring stash. It's been working fine for me.
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Post by jakesrocks on Nov 21, 2011 16:49:24 GMT -5
Don't know if they still make it, but you used to be able to buy cold galvanize in a spray can. It was great for painting parts that are prone to rust. I still have an old army shovel that I sprayed with the stuff about 17 years ago. The great part about this stuff is that it's " self healing ". If you scratch through to bare metal, the cold galvanize fills itself back in. Don't ask me how it does it. It just does.
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 21, 2011 20:19:10 GMT -5
Don, we used to call that "FM" and the M stands for magic.
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 21, 2011 20:21:59 GMT -5
The original brass valves were referred to as "aquarium valves". Regular compression fitting needle valves should be easy to use. Barranca switched to stainless steel valves which cost more but are supposed to be mo bettah.
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Post by stoner on Nov 26, 2011 4:24:35 GMT -5
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Post by NatureNut on Nov 26, 2011 7:51:24 GMT -5
Now THAT'S a shop! Love seeing pics of a busy shop like that. Everything you could possibly need, including a grinder that is looking brand spanking new! Jo
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 26, 2011 9:56:16 GMT -5
Nice job!
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sampson
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since April 2011
Posts: 222
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Post by sampson on Nov 26, 2011 13:56:24 GMT -5
Wow, very nice. Thanks for the updated pics. I like the bolt cover flap and the stacked saw blade super grinder. Now we just need you to use it then post some pics of it all covered in rock snot.
Sampson
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stefan
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2005
Posts: 14,095
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Post by stefan on Dec 14, 2011 9:31:02 GMT -5
Looks good enough to send to some guy in Buffalo LOL Nice job on that Ed.! I was just thinking of a new paint job for my grinder- maybe this summer
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