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Post by phil on Mar 13, 2012 15:19:02 GMT -5
Hi. Anyone have a 14 inch Lortone drop saw? At least I think it's an old Lortone. It's blue, no case. I need a pic of the rock vise setup, someone stole ours while it was sitting unused.
Thanks! Phil
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2012 16:05:44 GMT -5
Here's a pic, I can get you a better one later if this will not work. Tim
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shermlock
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2011
Posts: 612
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Post by shermlock on Mar 13, 2012 17:02:40 GMT -5
That is exactly what mine looks like too. Scott
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Post by parfive on Mar 13, 2012 18:26:19 GMT -5
Phil - Threaded rods are ½” - 13 x 7 ¼” Lower (fixed) bar stock is 3/8” x 2” x 10” Upper bar stock is 3/8” x 2” x 8” Oak strips are ~same size as the upper bar stock. Holding a Bobby1 style slab grabber Upper bar stock removed for my no cost slab grabber
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Post by phil on Mar 13, 2012 19:41:28 GMT -5
Thanks! That should get me there. Then I need to build a shell from scratch for it, these things do throw a lot of oil mist..... and are noisy too. But they do a good job! Phil
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Tex
starting to shine!
Member since December 2011
Posts: 27
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Post by Tex on Mar 13, 2012 20:17:31 GMT -5
I have this saw also. Has anyone modified there vise in such a way that you could do more than 1 cut without repositioning the rock? If someone has I would like to hear how.
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,487
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Post by Sabre52 on Mar 13, 2012 20:41:58 GMT -5
Hmm Unless I'm mistaken, the whole saw carriage rides across the vice on a threaded rod so you don't have to reposition the rock. You just crank the blade further over the rock for your next cut. I seem to remember the cross feed being like 4-6" or so before you had to reposition the workpiece. There should be a crank handle on the right end of the shaft holding the blade part of the saw so you can crank the blade to the left across the rock in the vice...Mel
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Post by johnjsgems on Mar 13, 2012 20:44:52 GMT -5
Doesn't the whole saw head slide over for next slab? I had a similar home made copy I sold last year. It had a step lever in back that was supposed to slide the head over 1/4" at a time. The vise was stationary. The vise was a 2X4 on the bottom and two 2x4's on top. It looked weird but sure grabbed every odd ball shape rock I tried. The rod that saw head mounts to looks like it goes across the back same as mine did.
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Post by phil on Mar 13, 2012 20:56:31 GMT -5
Mel, you are correct. The saw moves back and forth on the threaded rod and the rock stays put. on ours, it's 1/16th inch per revolution of the crank.
Parfive or Tim... can you tell me how far apart the threaded rod uprights are? I'm guessing 7 inches?
Also for Parfive, what did you make your no cost slab grabber from? Or did you drill all those holes yourself? I like that hardware cloth mod! Think we'll steal the idea.... <grin>
Thanks again! I knew this gang would come thru!
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Mar 13, 2012 21:26:47 GMT -5
Hi Phill,
The threaded rods are 7 7/16" a part (center to center).
Hi Parfive,
I really like the slab grabber also, what kind of wood did you use?
Tim
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Post by parfive on Mar 13, 2012 22:09:32 GMT -5
Phil – Not a critical dimension if you’re fabricating a new vise, but the rods are 6 ¾” on center. The grabber’s just two pieces of dense plastic lumber. Still goin’ strong. forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/index.cgi?board=tips&action=display&thread=15517I never use the saw as a trim saw, so I removed the insert plate and replaced it with the mesh. I figure it give slabs a “softer” landing and lets the oil drain immediately.
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Post by parfive on Mar 13, 2012 22:20:43 GMT -5
Tex – Sabre52 describes the action.
I typically cut four, five or six slabs without ever shutting the saw off. When the first slab is cut, I lift the arm, crank the crossfeed four turns for an 0.200” slab, and then ease the blade down into the next cut.
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Post by parfive on Mar 13, 2012 22:32:49 GMT -5
Since we’re on the subject, here’s an easy way to drain the oil for filtering.
I use a couple of ½” pipe rollers to roll the saw off the oil pan. You need a clear area next to the saw on the workbench, and a couple of boards the same 3” height as the oil pan. Lift the front of the saw above the oil pan and put a roller under it, then lift the back end and sit it on the second roller, and roll the saw off the oil pan onto the boards. [When the saw’s about to roll off the back roller, move it the front, or have a third roller handy.] When the oil pan is cleaned out, roll the saw back over it and remove the rollers one at a time. You never have to lift the whole saw this way, and even when you’re lifting the heavy back end with the motor, it’s only a couple of inches.
Note: My saw sits ‘sideways’ on the workbench, with the motor on the right-hand side. That’s the way I like to operate it. So when I’m rolling it off the oil pan, it’s a left/right deal.
I never bothered installing a drain in the pan because you still want to scrape out the gunk and the sludge.
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jspencer
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since March 2011
Posts: 929
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Post by jspencer on Mar 13, 2012 23:38:05 GMT -5
This is a Hilquist 14" drop saw that was modified at Tx. A&M University. It is now a fixed blade with a vise attached to a rail system. You are right, they do sling oil but I built a cover for it to contain it all in the drain pan they built for it. From there it has a 3/4 copper nipple for the drain that goes to an oil bucket below where the pump recirculates it. I got the cable today to start on my gravity feed design. It is a great cutting saw and I get smooth cuts. It almost feeds itself into the blade with just the blade action. The vise has about a 2' travel side to side for slicing. I`ll post some pics when I get it all complete. I mounted it on a small table on casters so it can be moved easily in my garage. A shelf below holds the oil supply and pump. I mounted a hose bib on the drain pipe to shut off when I need to do any work on it. When the oil gets dirty I filter it through a paper bag and it`s ready to go again. Attachments:
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Tex
starting to shine!
Member since December 2011
Posts: 27
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Post by Tex on Mar 15, 2012 21:19:10 GMT -5
Well I'm glad I ask dumb questions. I did not know the carriage would move over like that. I picked this up on the cheap and had to do some work on it to get it going. I like the hardware screen and have all ready put a piece in place. Great Idea.
Tex
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