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Polish
Apr 2, 2004 4:10:07 GMT -5
Post by puppie96 on Apr 2, 2004 4:10:07 GMT -5
Interesting. Have always thought cerium oxide was the best. Had a load of rocks that were basically quartz variations, mostly ocean tumbled, so I put them through a prepolish and then into cerium oxide -- split it up into a vibe and a barrel -- been watching it for more days than it should take in a vibe -- like, it's shiny but not quite there -- Then I finally got annoyed and washed out the barrel and the vibe and put it all in the vibe with the Raytech folks proprietary product that comes with the intro kit -- well, what a stroke of genius, 12 hours later this stuff has gone from ordinary to mirror finish. I've been told that the Raytech final polish is aluminum oxide, for what it's worth. This was cool, first time I've really looked at subtle differences in the gloss and tossed them back in so many times.
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Polish
Apr 2, 2004 10:09:49 GMT -5
Post by Noosh9057 on Apr 2, 2004 10:09:49 GMT -5
Very intersting. Thasnks for the info.
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James
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since October 2003
Posts: 876
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Polish
Apr 2, 2004 23:25:51 GMT -5
Post by James on Apr 2, 2004 23:25:51 GMT -5
The main thing that has to be remebered is that different types of rock respond differently to different types of polishes. Another commonly overlook problem is the pre-polish. Not all are the same. In fact, lately I'm finding the pre-polish to be more important then the final polish. Nowadays I do two pre-polishes: A 500 silicon carb grit and a second 1000 aluminum oxide grit. I run each for 5 days and then go to polish. This actually cuts down on polish time as well. Overall it amounts to about the same amount of time. The results are just better. I've also had great results with Tripoli pre-polish in the past. I just order 5 lbs of it instead of SISA because Miners Mall screwed up my order.... I'm going to test it out and post a review when I'm done.
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Polish
Apr 3, 2004 0:07:49 GMT -5
Post by mrbrett on Apr 3, 2004 0:07:49 GMT -5
How about tin oxide? Is that good for most quartz?
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Polish
Apr 3, 2004 0:35:23 GMT -5
Post by puppie96 on Apr 3, 2004 0:35:23 GMT -5
For prepolish, I've been using Iolox. I love that stuff. It also turned up in the Raytech vibe tumbler kit.
I've tumbled similar rocks before, in fact, this was a somewhat mixed batch with other beach stones from another locale that I know for a fact polish well in cerium. I'm thinking maybe I didn't have the cerium polish right -- to thick, maybe?
I've got some tin oxide, but it hasn't done anything great for me. Cerium's been my favorite.
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James
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since October 2003
Posts: 876
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Polish
Apr 3, 2004 2:07:17 GMT -5
Post by James on Apr 3, 2004 2:07:17 GMT -5
Tin oxide is a must for softer stones. I've had limited success with it for harder rocks like agates. Tin oxide has to be the most overrated polish on the market.
As I stated before, different types of rock respond differently to different types of polishes. That's really what its about. Not so much as which one is "better" in general.
For quartz, I'd recommend Cerium oxide.
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Polish
Apr 3, 2004 3:17:17 GMT -5
Post by rockyraccoon on Apr 3, 2004 3:17:17 GMT -5
on that polish chart john shared with us it said cerium or tin oxide for quartz and tin oxide for adventurine. i've got my adventurine in with my quartz. do i need to use tin or do you have a better recommendation?
kim
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MichiganRocks
starting to spend too much on rocks
"I wasn't born to follow."
Member since April 2007
Posts: 154
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Polish
Apr 3, 2004 10:12:08 GMT -5
Post by MichiganRocks on Apr 3, 2004 10:12:08 GMT -5
I don't see why they can't be together. Aventurine is just quartz and fuchite mica. Hardness of quartz and aventurine are both 7.
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tjmax
noticing nice landscape pebbles
Member since March 2004
Posts: 79
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Polish
Apr 3, 2004 10:29:49 GMT -5
Post by tjmax on Apr 3, 2004 10:29:49 GMT -5
I have a noob question, stones coming out of prepolish should look like what?
Should they actually start to already have a shine or just very smooth?
I have some stones i put into 500/600 pre-polish and then plan on going to 700 then polish. just trying to figure out when its actually ready.
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MichiganRocks
starting to spend too much on rocks
"I wasn't born to follow."
Member since April 2007
Posts: 154
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Polish
Apr 3, 2004 11:13:36 GMT -5
Post by MichiganRocks on Apr 3, 2004 11:13:36 GMT -5
Hey tj, my rule of thumb is if it's slippery to the touch when wet, it's ready.
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James
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since October 2003
Posts: 876
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Polish
Apr 3, 2004 14:31:38 GMT -5
Post by James on Apr 3, 2004 14:31:38 GMT -5
Slippery to the touch when wet is a general indication. The best way I've found is to use a jewlers loupe or a magnifying glass to inspect the surface. Just like everything else, practice makes perfect.
Kim, I've never polished aventurine but I'm sure cerium will work just fine. Than again, so would tin oxide.
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Polish
Apr 3, 2004 15:24:23 GMT -5
Post by rockyraccoon on Apr 3, 2004 15:24:23 GMT -5
i've got some more adventurine rough so if it doesn't polish i'll just throw it in with that when they get to pre-polish and try another polish. has anyone ever tried the titanium on the quartz?
kim
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James
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since October 2003
Posts: 876
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Polish
Apr 3, 2004 15:30:34 GMT -5
Post by James on Apr 3, 2004 15:30:34 GMT -5
It works wonders on agate which is a type of quartz, so I don't see why not.
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