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Post by tntmom on Jul 9, 2012 20:15:49 GMT -5
So.... got a couple of cool rare orby OB slabs today, trimmed them on my 7" tile saw and then shut it off to go get my ocean jasper slab and trim that too. When I tried turning it back on the switch felt funny and nothing happened. Unplugged it, waited, plugged it back in and nothing. Took the underneath cover off, unplugged the 4 connections (wire leads), plugged them back in, tried it again and nothing. It just died on me. I've never liked this saw. It's a 7" Skil retrofitted with an MK Lapidary blade. Super loud, super messy and I had to remove the splash guards and run it backwards. It's not under warranty anymore and I don't know if it's even worth fixing. I noticed my local hardware store has an MK Diamond 7" for around $215.00 that states under specifications that it's for natural stone. Not cheap but more affordable than a lapidary trim saw. www.lowes.com/pd_49613-1188-MK-170_0__?productId=3509204&Ntt=wet+tile+saw&pl=1¤tURL=&facetInfo= Do any of you own one of these? I'm wondering if I should replace or repair? Thanks in advance for your feedback......... I'm going to go crazy if I can't preform cabs for any length of time!!!!
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Post by digdug on Jul 9, 2012 20:24:12 GMT -5
TNT, it sounds like the switch itself has packed it in. The contacts sound like they fused. I think you want a new one anyways lol.
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Post by jakesrocks on Jul 9, 2012 21:18:29 GMT -5
Shame you don't live over this way Krystee. I have all kinds of switches. We'd have that saw back up and running in a matter of minutes. But if you've never liked that saw, the new one is probably the way to go. Sorry I can't advise you on that Lowes saw. I've always had lapidary saws.
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Post by NatureNut on Jul 9, 2012 21:46:40 GMT -5
RIP. Save the blade if it's any good.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 9, 2012 22:58:29 GMT -5
If it is the MK170 it is a pretty decent saw. The BD version comes with a 303P (porcelain) blade for ""stone" but stone is granite, marble, etc. It works really well for smaller geodes and for trimming it would be fine. It has a submersible pump that feeds water to the blade so not messy compared to overfilled sump type saws. Max cutting height is 2" but I've rolled a lot of 3" geodes with one.
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Post by roy on Jul 9, 2012 23:09:18 GMT -5
check with lee he might have one for sale
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Post by 3rdrockfromthefun on Jul 10, 2012 4:53:01 GMT -5
Hey Krystee,
Sounds like the switch, based on how you said it feels. That's something I could also fix in about 5 minutes (tons of switches and soldering equipment here) - darn thing would cost more to ship than worth though. You could check the fuse too, if it has one.
Also, if your house or outlet isn't set up with GFCI I would go to Ace Hardware and buy one of theirs that can just be plugged into an outlet (no installation required). Mine has saved me a couple of times now (but then I saw barefoot - guess I'm just asking to be electrocuted). Point is - all these wet saws are... wet, and anywhere near a plug-in makes that a potential for heart-stoppage. My GF(C)I plugin cost me maybe $10 or $15 bucks - my two would-be ghosts tell me it's a great investment!
THE SAW --
I don't see a footprint for this listed. I would try to find out just how big it is. My 10" saw takes up more room than my stove.
Says it cuts porcelain - that's pretty much all you need to know; it'll cut anything you put through it depending on the blade if it truly can handle porcelain. Except diamond. If you get any diamonds that big you can afford a real rock saw, lol...
If they have a return policy then what have you got to lose but a day or two of bathing in rock fodder ? seriously. If you don't like it, take it back.
Anyway, footprint and spray are the two biggest problems I keep running into. My 10" throws out over a gallon an hour of water onto me and the floor. That's a major (~2 hours) cleanup everytime I use it for an hour or more as I have to mop, clean the walls, wipe down everything in the vicinity (lots of rock tubs but if you let the water dry you then have rock dust on everything - not good to breath).
I am considering buying a 7" harbor freight ($50'ish bucks) for a trim saw - almost exactly what you're tossing. I just can't seem to find a happy medium and, though it could happen, it would terribly pain me ethically to pay what they charge for those darn rock rascals.
There's probably a good business just waiting for someone who likes to modify things - buy up all these 7" and 10" tile saws and retro-fit them all with water catches and charge an extra $50 to $100. I'd buy one.
roy - who's lee? I am looking for both a slab and a trim saw on a budget?
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deedolce
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2006
Posts: 1,828
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Post by deedolce on Jul 10, 2012 9:09:08 GMT -5
What's GFCI? My bf is going to hook up my shed for my saws, and I play with water. And would like to live a bit longer!
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 10, 2012 9:14:34 GMT -5
Ground Fault Circuit interrupter. Houses for many years have GFCI receptacles in the bath rooms and outside. They have little reset buttons and trip at the slightest electrical short. Workshops need them for sure.
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Post by Pat on Jul 10, 2012 12:27:33 GMT -5
Since you have never like the saw, and it seems dead, looks like a good time to replace it!
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Post by tntmom on Jul 10, 2012 12:40:20 GMT -5
Also, if your house or outlet isn't set up with GFCI I would go to Ace Hardware and buy one of theirs that can just be plugged into an outlet (no installation required). Mine has saved me a couple of times now (but then I saw barefoot - guess I'm just asking to be electrocuted). Point is - all these wet saws are... wet, and anywhere near a plug-in makes that a potential for heart-stoppage. My GF(C)I plugin cost me maybe $10 or $15 bucks - my two would-be ghosts tell me it's a great investment! THE SAW -- I don't see a footprint for this listed. I would try to find out just how big it is. My 10" saw takes up more room than my stove. Great advice on the GFCI! Mine is running through a surge protector but I will upgrade it immediately. As far as the footprint, I just found the saw description on Johns website. His is listed for less and has a better blade. I would need to look into shipping costs though. johnwease.site.aplus.net/cgi-bin/mivavm?/mm5/merchant.mvc+Screen=PROD&Store_Code=JGLE&Product_Code=157222-BD&Category_Code=LS2 I like the water feed and less mess that John described. I might possibly be able to get an 8" homemade lapidary saw that used oil. Juzwuz is going to send me some pictures and if that might work for me it would be awesome and super affordable. And he lives only a few minutes away.
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Minnesota Daniel
freely admits to licking rocks
A COUPLE LAKERS
Member since August 2011
Posts: 891
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Post by Minnesota Daniel on Jul 10, 2012 12:57:37 GMT -5
My tile saw did almost the same thing and it was not the switch. Try slapping the saw after you turn it on. Don't hit it hard with a blunt object, just give it a whack with your hand, but about as hard as your palm can stand. Whether that works or not, check the brushes. They wear out, and even break. If that's not it, it probably is the switch.
If it is the brushes, look for them on the web or call the dealer. Check the price. OMG, for those little things? If you don't like the saw in the first place, get a new saw instead. I have an MK 170. it's expensive, but a lot better made than the cheapest saw at Home depot. But... the brushes still wear out. Ouch. It's served me well, I'ved used the heck out of it, and I did replace the brushes, but in the long run, I think a used lapidary trim saw at a good price is a better buy than a tile saw. Just my opinion.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 10, 2012 13:22:23 GMT -5
I agree with the used (or new) lapidary saw.
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juzwuz
has rocks in the head
Member since April 2010
Posts: 526
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Post by juzwuz on Jul 10, 2012 14:58:40 GMT -5
I had picked up a 8" homemade lapidary saw at a garage sale and I was going to clean out the oil (replace with water) and replace the bent blade. The arbor bearings are good and the coolant tank is solid with no leaks. It shouldn't be too hard to get it in shape for Krystee and she will get a lot better use out of it than I will. Plus I need to clear out some stuff from my garage.
What is a good thickness for a 8" or 10" trim saw blade? I think the arbor is 1/2 inch diameter.
Justin
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 10, 2012 19:20:55 GMT -5
Trim or trim and slab? Since she is used to tile blades I would use a BD/MK 303C .032". Half the thickness of a tile blade and thick enough to slab small rocks with. They make a .025" too but it is pretty thin. Probably OK for strictly trimming slabs. The Green Chinese blades wouldn't be bad to learn on either. They are not nearly as nice or quiet as the 303C but less than half the cost ($20 compared to $50 my prices). At the low cost a blade or two could be ruined without shedding too many tears.
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juzwuz
has rocks in the head
Member since April 2010
Posts: 526
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Post by juzwuz on Jul 10, 2012 22:32:53 GMT -5
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Post by tntmom on Jul 11, 2012 20:00:18 GMT -5
Thanks Justin!
Does anyone have any advice on 3/4 diameter blades? The MK-303 does not make them in this size. I'm great with an 8" blade but I don't know enough about lapidary saws to examine or understand the pictures?
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 11, 2012 20:35:59 GMT -5
You could have any standard 5/8" blade punched out to 3/4" by a machine shop. It has to be precisely centered.
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juzwuz
has rocks in the head
Member since April 2010
Posts: 526
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Post by juzwuz on Jul 12, 2012 0:22:47 GMT -5
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juzwuz
has rocks in the head
Member since April 2010
Posts: 526
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Post by juzwuz on Jul 12, 2012 0:35:41 GMT -5
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