Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2012 8:24:48 GMT -5
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Post by sheltie on Jul 29, 2012 9:00:05 GMT -5
It sounds ok to me, perhaps a little louder than mine. It could possibly be because only one barrel is running. Did you actually buy a unit with European current or did you have it switched when it arrived? I'm not sure that would make any difference but the thought popped into my mind. If the motor isn't overheating, I don't think you have a problem.
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Post by NatureNut on Jul 29, 2012 9:26:41 GMT -5
Try putting a few drops of oil in the oil ports on the motor. Jo
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itsandbits
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Post by itsandbits on Jul 29, 2012 10:47:39 GMT -5
Sounds like crap, Try isolating the noise and putting something on the metal plate to stop the vibration there. Maybe clip a couple of vise grips on to the "lip" of the tray to stop the resonating there so you can hear where it's coming from. I wouldn't find that acceptable at all but even going 50 cycles on a 60 cycle motor shouldn't do that but it does sound kind of like some high speed pulsation but some scraping as well.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2012 14:19:56 GMT -5
Greetings Ladies & Gents, [Sheltie] Well i asked specifically for a 220V 50Hz and i got a Lortone QT66 CE with 2 pin Central European plug anyway here's the motor label. As for overheating it runs around 55ºC (131ºF) with room temperature of 22ºC (71.6ºF). [NatureNut] Hi Jo, as far as i am aware it's a sealed unit and has no oil ports. [Itsandbits] Great idea so new video! It appears you need to run the unit with either a pair of 6lb barrels or a single 12lb barrel. Anyway it is still noisy compared to a few videos i have seen on Youtube such as this. And my 3lb Beach, it's better to hear the contents rather than hear the motor / assembly. -- I hail from (The Barony of Seabegs) Bonnybridge, Stirlingshire, U.K, where aliens (15mb) sometimes come for a visit & about 4 miles west from this monstrosity! Sticky's: their contents are resource information 1#: Vendors worldwide (2mb), 2#: How to use the forum, 3#: How to identify rocks & minerals, 4#: Save money on expensive grits & polishes!
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Post by NatureNut on Jul 30, 2012 1:19:57 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jul 31, 2012 1:27:08 GMT -5
Greetings "[NatureNut]" thankyou Jo, i also found this thread too. forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=print&thread=7184But both appear to be a complete strip-down just to expose the said oil ports, as i said before it's a sealed unit, do you have any disassembling instructions? Anyway if i do decide to disassemble the motor, doing so will most likely invalidate any warranty i have either Rockshed or Lortone! -- I hail from (The Barony of Seabegs) Bonnybridge, Stirlingshire, U.K, where aliens (15mb) sometimes come for a visit & about 4 miles west from this monstrosity! Sticky's: their contents are resource information 1#: Vendors worldwide (2mb), 2#: How to use the forum, 3#: How to identify rocks & minerals, 4#: Save money on expensive grits & polishes!
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Post by NatureNut on Jul 31, 2012 8:48:09 GMT -5
Hi Andrew, my QT12 is not disassembled and has the ports on the outside just like the picture in the link I posted. Unfortunately, I don't have disassembling instructions. I wonder if your motor is different from mine. Jo
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Minnesota Daniel
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Post by Minnesota Daniel on Jul 31, 2012 17:24:06 GMT -5
What I hear is the large pulley rubbing on the cover around it, or rubbing on the tumbler itself, and the belt is rubbing on the side of the large pulley as it rotates/wobbles a little bit out of alignment.
The nut that holds on the lid might also be rubbing on the metal bracket it sits in - make sure the tumbler is level.
The lid of the barrel also makes a lot of noise if it rides off the plastic covered part of the roller and instead rolls on metal.
Rollers make a lot of noise sometimes too -- clean and oil them.
I would rule out or correct all those things before I messed with the motor.
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itsandbits
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Post by itsandbits on Jul 31, 2012 17:42:38 GMT -5
yes you definately have some scraping going on and as I have never had one I don't know where it is coming from but possibly when they pried the pulley off the shaft of the 60cycle motor and redid it or put a 50-60 cycle motor on and replaced the pulley or gear and bent it in the process or it's on crooked. Quality control is only as good as the person doing the job and I get complete automatic door systems that I have to rebuild because ------- doesn't do their job properly. Parts backwards, wrong size, blah blah and lots of missing or improperly installed stuff. It's supposed to be mostly a working unit but the manufacturer sends a letter saying that they are not responsible for loose nuts or other mechanical defects. It's like buying a car and having to go in and check the torque on every bolt, screw, nut and fitting. IT IS MADDENING!!!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 31, 2012 19:40:32 GMT -5
Greetings "[NatureNut]", Hi Jo, i had another look at the motor and i found a possible oil port. In the picture below there is a bit of polystyrene just behind the port, basically so i could focus the camera on the right area, is this the said oil port? If it is then i have at least one port open as the other is directly behind the steel base. Rather than using the recommended engine oil, i am seriously considering using engine grease instead, just like i did with my free Lortone C300 when i was transfering everything onto a wooden base and greased all the areas that you would normally oil, then wrapped these areas in heavy duty polythene and sealed them with sellotape, the 0.25KW (1/3HP) motor had grease ports, and added about the size of a grain of rice to each port with a syringe and sealed the ports with a bit of sellotape, the grease i use has a 300ºC (572ºF) melting point. -- I hail from (The Barony of Seabegs) Bonnybridge, Stirlingshire, U.K, where aliens (15mb) sometimes come for a visit & about 4 miles west from this monstrosity! Sticky's: their contents are resource information 1#: Vendors worldwide (2mb), 2#: How to use the forum, 3#: How to identify rocks & minerals, 4#: Save money on expensive grits & polishes!
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unclem
starting to spend too much on rocks
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Post by unclem on Aug 4, 2012 10:39:17 GMT -5
yes, I have the same tumbler and mine does not make that much noise. I found a piece of a mudflap off of a truck and cut a pieces off to make a matt. That helped a bit.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 6, 2012 21:10:53 GMT -5
Greetings Ladies & Gents, i really think that i have got to the bottom of my noisy QT12/66. The drive pulley was out of alignment and scraping the tumbler base. [NatureNut] My motor does not have oil ports, although the cutout for it is there, but there is no tube leading into the motor, just straight down on to the motor shaft. -- I hail from (The Barony of Seabegs) Bonnybridge, Stirlingshire, U.K, where aliens (15mb) sometimes come for a visit & about 4 miles west from this monstrosity! Sticky's: their contents are resource information 1#: Vendors worldwide (2mb), 2#: How to use the forum, 3#: How to identify rocks & minerals, 4#: Save money on expensive grits & polishes!
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Post by Deleted on Sept 8, 2012 14:16:34 GMT -5
Greetings Ladies & Gents, this morning i removed the barrel to check the contents, then put i back on the tumbler and the grinding noise has returned, i removed the belt, i turned the barrel with my hand & noticed that the pulley was waggling in a S shape, i also noticed that the pulley core was kinked on the drive shaft. At first i thought that the set-screw was loose, but it was tight. Eventually found an allen-key that fitted, & removed the set-screw from the pulley & with a bit of leverage with a flat screwdriver at the pulley core i the pulley eventually came off. While the pulley was off i lightly filed the most razor sharp edges off the pulley, then put the pulley back on drive shaft & made sure that the pulley core was flush to the drive shaft, then tightened the set-screw. I put the barrel back on & i turned the barrel with my hand & noticed that the pulley was still waggling in a S shape, removed the set-screw again & tried to remove the pulley as above, but no the pulley core was jammed on the drive shaft. After a bit pushing, pulling & twisting the pulley started turning against it's core, eventually the pulley started coming apart, which it did & once i had i only the pulley core left, it was relatively easy to remove form the drive shaft as i had somthing to grip. The pulley & the drive shaft appear to be the main casualties so far, but i can get the complete set plus a few extras for £49.54 ($79.31) or send tumbler back to Shawn for £90 ($144), so it's a no brainer. Click the pic for a larger pic in a new tab. It was in 3 pieces, but now 2. -- I hail from (The Barony of Seabegs) Bonnybridge, Stirlingshire, U.K, where aliens (15mb) sometimes come for a visit & about 4 miles west from this monstrosity! Sticky's: their contents are resource information 1#: Vendors worldwide (2mb), 2#: How to use the forum, 3#: How to identify rocks & minerals, 4#: Save money on expensive grits & polishes!
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Minnesota Daniel
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Post by Minnesota Daniel on Sept 9, 2012 0:01:47 GMT -5
The pulley got stuck on the shaft at the end of the barrel roller? The pulley should slide on and off without requiring any force. How did it get stuck? Was there a bur at the end of the set screw hole or something? Mine slides on and off smoothly.
The shaft end of the barrel roller was damaged in trying to get the pulley off? It needs to be replaced, or am I misunderstanding you? It's hardened steel, I don't see how you could damage it.
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unclem
starting to spend too much on rocks
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Post by unclem on Sept 9, 2012 8:32:38 GMT -5
yes it sounds like you got a lemon. I hope you get it worked out.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2012 11:02:16 GMT -5
Greetings Ladies & Gents, [Daniel] does this video help! One thing i do notice about the drive shaft is it is too short as the pulley core should fit completely on the shaft with a bit of the shaft exposed on the other side of the pulley core. Unfortunately the most i can get the pulley on is the shaft is flush with the inner ring. Normally i put a pulley on with the set-screw to outside, but the set-screw only bites fresh air. About two weeks ago the belt was removed & the pulley was spun by hand an it continued to spin for 2-3 seconds after removing my hand, now it stops dead as soon as i remove my hand, just like the idler shaft does, the motor continues to spin for 3 - 5 seconds. I intend to replace the drive shaft, idler shaft, bearings, cir-clips, drive pully & belt (the complete drive assembly). -- I hail from (The Barony of Seabegs) Bonnybridge, Stirlingshire, U.K, where aliens (15mb) sometimes come for a visit & about 4 miles west from this monstrosity! Sticky's: their contents are resource information 1#: Vendors worldwide (2mb), 2#: How to use the forum, 3#: How to identify rocks & minerals, 4#: Save money on expensive grits & polishes!
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Minnesota Daniel
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Post by Minnesota Daniel on Sept 10, 2012 18:47:08 GMT -5
Mine is an older model, but yours does not look like mine at all. As you can clearly see, I have more room to mount the two pulleys farther away from the chassis. You can also see that my pulley is bent a little too, but I flattened it the best I could by hand, and it still clears the chassis, even without moving the pulleys out farther away. I wonder of you got a defective - too short - drive shaft, maybe even one that is too thick. Mine is 1/2 inch diameter.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 29, 2012 14:05:19 GMT -5
Greetings Ladies & Gents, i received my spare parts order from RockShed on the "18 Sep" the shafts were hanging out of box, but they appear to be ok, on the "23 Sep" i disassembled the unit & noted that a pair of bearings were slightly worn & the replacement drive shaft was longer than the original, Shawn kindly donated the QT drive pulley free of charge. Old Drive shaft Length 320mm (12.598") X Width 12.7mm (0.5") with 12.7mm (0.5") space for pulley. New Drive shaft Length 322mm (12.677") X Width 12.7mm (0.5") with 12.7mm (0.5") space for pulley. The pulley core Length 15.24mm (0.6") X Height 100mm (4"). Ideally the drive shaft space for pulley should have been around 19.05mm (0.75")! Click the pic for a larger pic in a new tab, Shift Click for a larger pic in a new window. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I phoned Shawn at Rockshed, who even measured a Lortone QT 12/66 drive shaft from the cir-clip groove to the end of the shaft & it measured 12.7mm (0.5"). Lortone QT 12/66 from cold this noise lasts about ten minutes. Lortone QT12/66 the noise after ten minutes of use. Lortone QT12/66 the noise of the motor only from cold, sorry about the lighting. [Unclem] Yes i tend to agree with you! -- I hail from (The Barony of Seabegs) Bonnybridge, Stirlingshire, U.K, where aliens (15mb) sometimes come for a visit & about 4 miles west from this monstrosity! Sticky's: their contents are resource information 1#: Vendors worldwide (2mb), 2#: How to use the forum, 3#: How to identify rocks & minerals, 4#: Save money on expensive grits & polishes!
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Minnesota Daniel
freely admits to licking rocks
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Post by Minnesota Daniel on Oct 14, 2012 20:22:14 GMT -5
Andrew, I finally needed to replace the rollers on my very old QT66. I haven't figured out how, but one of the clips that holds the rollers in place started to slip and it eventually wore the end of the shaft right off. It was fine the last time I took everything apart, so I'm baffled as to how this could have happened.
Anyway, I get the replacement pair of rollers and guess what? There isn't enough room on the end of the drive shaft to attach the large pulley very well. All I can figure is that the slots in the shaft where the clips go must be slightly farther apart on recently made shafts.
After struggling to figure it out it finally occurred to me that you don't need the clip on the pulley end if you attach the pulley with the set screw on the inside. That effectively makes the shaft a bit longer -- the thickness of the clip you don't need. Took me a while to find a hex wrench that was long enough to reach, but everything fits together great now, with just a little of the shaft sticking out beyond the pulley. The pulleys and the belt are well away from the chassis now too, so they'll never rub, yet the cover over it all still fits without anything rubbing there either. Problem solved.
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