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Post by deb193redux on Oct 13, 2012 17:11:25 GMT -5
you need to trim using the equator of the blade, where the angle of the blade and the table is perpendicular. if you are higher up on the crest of the blade, it will not work.
you can also use a lapidary band saw. not too expensive if you plan to make lots of crosses. You can even do more fancy crosses.
sanding and polishing on wheel is another tough problem, where you cna mess up inside corners. Maybe stay a little bit back form the inside corners and then use a vibe tumbler to get the corners in shape - or touch up with a Dremel tool.
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Post by Jugglerguy on Oct 13, 2012 17:31:58 GMT -5
Can the angle of the blade ever be perpendicular to the table? The center of the blade is always lower than the table. That was the problem I was concerned about.
I don't plan to make a bunch, so a band saw is not really an option.
I hadn't thought of a Dremel tool. I do have a Dremel, but I don't have any lapidary bits. I'm assuming I'd need some sort of diamond bits. Do you just use the Dremel dry? It seems like using one with water is a bad idea.
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Post by deb193redux on Oct 13, 2012 17:41:03 GMT -5
you may want a diamond disc for the dremel. I have not really thought about the best diamond bits.
on 10" trim saws sometimes the table crosses at the equator. some have the arbor half above the table, and some do put the arbor below the table.
7" tile saws and 6" trim saws do put the arbor below. if I had to use one of these, I think I would make a wedged work area, so as to tilt the (new table surface) up until it is perpendicular.
I think you could also do a cross where you drill 4 holes at the inside corners, and then cut into the holes. a design with 3/16 or larger holes might even look neat.
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Post by Jugglerguy on Oct 13, 2012 18:02:50 GMT -5
I had no idea that saws were ever made with the arbor half above the table. I don't have much experience with lapidary saws, so I'm picturing table saws. My trim saw is like a little table saw.
I actually pictured an angled or wedged table when you mentioned the table hitting the saw at a 90° angle. I might give that a try.
Drilled holes at the corners is a good idea too, but I don't have a drill press or diamond bits.
Thanks for the help.
I'd still like that old tutorial on making Celtic crosses if anyone has it.
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Oct 13, 2012 19:37:04 GMT -5
I am thinking with the saw you have that making an angled jig to set on the table that holds the rock perpendicular to the blade would work best. We have done a few and the thinner blades seem to work better for those precise cuts but we still broke some in the process. If the blade binds at all on those small pieces they break easy. We tumbled them with lots of ceramics to finish them.
Chuck
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Post by Jugglerguy on Oct 13, 2012 21:05:39 GMT -5
I think I'll give that a try. I cut a slab out of a small pudding stone I found on the beach the other day. It was yellowish like the one I post a picture of, but on the inside it was much more white. There was hardly any jasper in it. It was almost all white. I think I'll try that rock to make a cross, since there isn't much to lose.
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Post by Jugglerguy on Oct 14, 2012 20:48:23 GMT -5
Here's my attempt at a cross. The corners look worse than I thought now that I'm looking at a larger picture of it. I'll probably touch them up a bit on the saw next time I start it up. I'll throw this in my next Lot-O batch. It's not perfect, but at least I know I can do it now. Attachments:
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Post by rockpickerforever on Oct 14, 2012 20:54:24 GMT -5
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Post by Jugglerguy on Oct 14, 2012 21:38:34 GMT -5
Yeah, that's the thread I found when I did a search. The problem is that the link to the tutorial doesn't work. Thanks though!
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Post by rockpickerforever on Oct 15, 2012 17:59:16 GMT -5
Oh yeah, I see what you mean. Doesn't look like the web page it was on exists anymore. The thread was over six years old... I hope someone had saved the pdf file, so all is not lost. I wish you luck in finding it. Jean
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