RockyBlue
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Post by RockyBlue on Jan 7, 2007 2:56:26 GMT -5
Hey rockers! I`ll be getting me a saw in about 3 KS,where can i get a saw vise and a slab grabber?i saw a thread earlier that had both but i can`t find it.All help is appreciated.............Rocky
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Post by Jack ( Yorkshire) on Jan 7, 2007 4:44:54 GMT -5
Hi Rockyone . A excelent tutorial by Bill Try in the Lapidary Tips sections It has plenty of pics and demonstrations I have brought it to the front for you ( I dont know how you link it to this reply) ? have a good day Jack Yorkshire UK
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junerev
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Post by junerev on Jan 7, 2007 11:44:12 GMT -5
Thanks for posting that Jack, I was wondering how to use the slab grabber and wondering what the difference is.
June
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RockyBlue
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Post by RockyBlue on Jan 7, 2007 12:08:58 GMT -5
Thanks Jack! That`s the one i was looking for.........Rocky
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Post by deb193 on Jan 7, 2007 12:45:08 GMT -5
Here is the thread: forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/index.cgi?board=tips&action=display&thread=1155064326What size saw? Does it have the vise already? I have both the Lortone design slab grabber, where two plates with notches on the edge hold the slab (like the one in the tips thread); as well as the type that holds the slab with screws on the face of metal bars. The small ones are limited to about 3" slabs. They can also take a little away from the maximum cut depth, depending how the grabber gets held in the vise. Vises that clamp from the side can hold either type. Vises with a wood bar on top can be a problem. IF you looki n the tutorial, a NARROW clamp strip was used to fit between the wing nuts on the clamp. Most 10" saws have at least a 3" wood bar and would not fit. For the tile saws it is a whole different ballgame. The slab grabbers would not work as well, and there is no easy way to mount a vise. RockKitten did make some jigs that slip over the fense that you could glue a rock to, but most folks just guide things by hand. So what size saw are you expecting? Have you rodered it yet?
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RockyBlue
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Post by RockyBlue on Jan 7, 2007 14:03:59 GMT -5
No i don`t have it yet,i`m waiting to file my taxes,but the only one i can get is a 7incher from Lowes,i`ve tried to get a Workforce,but i can`t find a store that will ship one,not even Home Depot. and i`ve even tried the manufacture........Rocky
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Post by deb193 on Jan 7, 2007 14:09:13 GMT -5
As for shipping, you need to use HomeDepot.com - individual stores do not ship.
As for using a vise and slab grabber with a tile saw, I don't think this will work out. Remember this is not a slab saw even if you can make some slabbetts.
I don't use the jig anymore that RockKitten sent me because I hate waiting for glue to dry and I can do what I want by hand. I would let you have that for the postage. It is sized for the WF fence.
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RockyBlue
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Post by RockyBlue on Jan 7, 2007 14:50:23 GMT -5
How thick of a rock will a 7in. saw cut?can you turn a rock likt you would a piece of large pvc pipe by turning it while it`s cutting or flip it over and cut from the back?......Rocky
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Post by deb193 on Jan 7, 2007 16:09:41 GMT -5
You can manage about 3" if you turn carefully. BUT (big big BUT), this is not a slab-cut it is likely to be uneven, show saw marks, maybe have a piont or ridge in the middle. ALso unlike PVC pipe that is nice and even and symmetrical, as you turn the rock, the uneven surface twists it on the saw blade. (It really works better if you turn w/o letting the stone touch the table.) It can pinch the blade and cause the direct drive motor to stop. If you don't shut if off right away it may burn out the motor. Another possibility is that the rock will crack and a chunk will get thrown at your face, or the blade will slam the rock down and smash you finger. (Been there, done that.)
Heck I even lowered 5-6lb boulders onto the blade and made 1" deep gashes that I could put my cold chisel in and split the rock. But that too was rough on the blade. I use cheap $9 blades for this type of abusive stuff, and I get about 1 day out of them. Then I put my good $30-$40 blade back on for making slabbetts out of 1.5" thich rough piecs.
The saw was never intended for this, yet we do it occasionally. Most stuff is just over a inch thick. If you have 2.5" slab that is flat on both sides, you might manage to flip over and get a nice smooth cut.
Bottom line is if you want to chunk up some 2.5 to 3" rocks and then slice the chunks up further, you can do this. It will wear the balde out fast, so there is a cost.
If you want 3" slabs that are nice and even, then you need a 10" saw with a vise.
I think the WF (or most tile saws with a good blade) is a good starter saw that can be used to cut up tumble rough, split small nodules, trim slabs into blanks, and even make small slabbetts from 1.5" to 2" rocks (some turning to do the 2"). It is not going to do everythig you want.
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RockyBlue
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Post by RockyBlue on Jan 7, 2007 17:43:38 GMT -5
Thanks Daniel! These are the type things a newbie needs to know,that`s why i ask a lot of questions,i usually get expert advise,I`ve learned a lot since June.Who said you can`t teach an old dog new tricks..Rocky
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erbojones
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Post by erbojones on Jan 7, 2007 18:07:32 GMT -5
Thanks Daniel - I'm going to be breaking open my new tile saw this week - your comments are very timely and helpful indeed.
Thanks also to rockyone for starting the thread!
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RockyBlue
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Post by RockyBlue on Jan 7, 2007 19:05:51 GMT -5
It`s me again! I just think a 7" is not going to do the job that i want to do,i`m not going to be cutting too much tumbling size rocks,i think most rocks that i want to cut will be in the 3" to 6" range,so can somebody recommend a saw that will do the job,that won`t cost an arm and a leg,I`m probably looking at a 10".........Rocky
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Post by deb193 on Jan 7, 2007 19:32:18 GMT -5
You got to go used to get a 10" with vise and maybe autofeed for anything under $400. If you let go of the autofeed, maybe $325. Every now and then you see a 10" gravity feed go for $280 on ebay, but not often.
SnowDog might buy an estate tomorrow that has a 10" saw with an autofeed. He might cut you a deal if he knew he had the saw resold going into the deal. Some club shows have used equipment too. The best deals come form the families of deceased rockhounds. I'm sure my stuff will be going for peanuts one day - but not too soon I hope.
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RockyBlue
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Post by RockyBlue on Jan 7, 2007 20:05:39 GMT -5
I found a 10" that has a cutting depth of 3 and 3/4 but it`s a Chicago brand from Harbor Freight,has anybody had any dealings with them or have a saw from them?........Rocky
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Post by deb193 on Jan 7, 2007 21:44:10 GMT -5
That sounds like a construction/masony saw. Is it the kind with the motor and blade overhead and a sliding table? JUne is using one like that from MK Diamond. MichiganROcks uses one too.
I think it offeres some advantage to blocking up lorge pieces of rough that won;t even fit in the vise on a slab saw - BUT there is no vise cross-feed. SO youwould have to try to get even slabs by eyeball.
Also, it is one thing to use a workforce at its cut depth, but quite enother thing to use a 12" blade at its depth. If you ruin a WF blade you are out $10 to $40, if you ruin a 12" blade, then you are out $100 to $300.
I would get the tile saw, learn a bit about how different types of rock cut, learn how healthy grinding sounds, learn about what a worn blade looks like, get a real good assessement on what you still can't do and what you are willing to pay for it. Then 6mo or a year later youcan get the bigger saw.
OR, rent one of the 10" or 12" tiles saws for a day from a local rental place. See what you can and can't do with it. I know I would not be happy with one if it was my only saw. I would like one to help prep/block rough for my 10" slab saw, but if I could only have one saw, it would need a propper slabbing vise.
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RockyBlue
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Post by RockyBlue on Jan 7, 2007 22:11:21 GMT -5
Thanks again Daniel! I sent Snowdog a pm.and it`s a wait and see.i got my fingers crossed,I`v noticed on some of the 7" saws that i found on the net you can get a 10" blade for it but the depth cut remains,why is that>>Rocky
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Post by deb193 on Jan 8, 2007 0:02:57 GMT -5
I have never heard of this. Maybe some of the overhead types have room for a bigger blade.
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