blackout5783
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since November 2011
Posts: 248
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Post by blackout5783 on May 8, 2013 20:52:37 GMT -5
So I have what could become a screaming deal on a 24" saw. :drool: Seriously, if this pans out I'll feel like a beat a kid up for his lunch money.
Anyway, there's a slight issue with said saw (besides the "TLC" that it needs - can't get a look at it until later this month). The seller has told me that the motor is a 230v, which I don't currently have installed anywhere in the house.
If I do end up getting this saw I'm not sure how to approach this problem. Add a 230v line? Get a new 115v motor?
If I go the new motor route, what size is appropriate on a 24" saw? 1hp? 1.5hp? Chevy small block?
My concern is that even with the new motor, the circuit this would be on won't cut it. A 1.5hp motor at 115v pulls about 20 amps no load, right?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
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Post by deb193redux on May 8, 2013 21:21:25 GMT -5
I think the 20amps might be a startup max. I have heard about 10-12amps running.
What does the circuit for your stove and dryer use?
BTW, while HP uses 1.5hp 120v, Covington uses 1hp.
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Post by jakesrocks on May 8, 2013 21:53:50 GMT -5
My old HP 24" used a 3/4 HP motor. It was 120 / 220 V motor. Just by changing a couple wires it could be run on 120 V.
If you lived near S.D., I have a near new 3/4 HP motor just sitting in my shed.
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Post by Rockoonz on May 8, 2013 22:21:37 GMT -5
1hp with a capacitor start would be fine. A 350LT1 would be cool You never know maybe the motor is a switchable motor, but adding an electric breaker just for the saw may be a good idea anyway. Lee
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Post by johnjsgems on May 8, 2013 22:30:10 GMT -5
My HP24 had a capacitor start 1.5 hp and 115/230. It ran fine on a 20amp 120 V circuit.
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Steve
has rocks in the head
Member since June 2005
Posts: 506
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Post by Steve on May 8, 2013 23:19:22 GMT -5
Wait until you have the saw in hand before getting a replacement motor. Good chance you'll be able to convert the motor to 110 with a bit of wire switching. Most new motors of the size you're talking about seem to come prewired for 220 and a wiring diagram for switching to 110.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,558
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Post by jamesp on May 9, 2013 7:14:34 GMT -5
Lots of motors are 120/220 by switching wires.But lots are not.If you do replace,pay attention to CCW and CW-rotation direction.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on May 9, 2013 7:50:38 GMT -5
Buy the saw. Worry about the details later.
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Post by rockpickerforever on May 9, 2013 10:10:57 GMT -5
Check with your electricity provider to find out if you have 220 volt coming into your house. In SoCal, we have SDG&E (yeah, I know, highest rates in the nation. That's why I own Sempra stock - lol!), and I'm pretty sure most homes (I know our's does) have 220 volt coming into their breaker box. It gets split into 110 in the box. I think most people aren't aware of this. We have several machines that are 220 volt, some of it is three phase as well (we use a phase converter and Baldor 5 HP 220 volt idler motor). When we first bought our house, we had an electrician install 100 amp service just to the garage.
However, if you have to hire an electrician to run service from your box, you'll eat up what you are saving on the saw, and then some. Would be cheaper if the motor could be switched to 110 volt use, and if not, to get a different motor. Jean
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2013 13:44:15 GMT -5
Like rob said. Buy the saw, sweat the details later. Motor stuff is too simple.
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blackout5783
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since November 2011
Posts: 248
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Post by blackout5783 on May 9, 2013 15:01:00 GMT -5
Yeah, I thought I could probably work my way to a solution when I got the saw. Just posted for people's opinions.
I think my real problem is going to be getting the saw from there to here. Its only about 20-25 miles, but I am truckless. No pickup, no nothing. Looks like it might be Ryder time!
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2013 16:02:49 GMT -5
Yeah, rent the ryder or a uhaul. Cheap solution. You'll need a strong back to take it off on the homeside too! Wish I was in Jersey to help out!
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Post by johnjsgems on May 9, 2013 16:42:34 GMT -5
If it has casters rent an open trailer with ramp. You may need plywood to cover ramp if not solid.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on May 10, 2013 8:43:28 GMT -5
Get help. LOL. Me and one other guy just carried a Lortone 18" saw out of a basement. Only a 225lb saw but the stairs were way past code for steepness. I wanted to take the motor off but the other guy wanted to be manly so away we went. He started crying about halfway up and I had to keep on his ass to keep going. I figured that would happen but I was in one of those moods to punish stupidity. LOL. I guess some of my bad qualities from being in construction for 20 years still shine thru on occasion. Eventually you just go numb trying to talk sense into someone with rocks for brains(no offense anyone lol) and it's like well whatever.
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