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Post by Bluesky78987 on May 12, 2013 17:59:35 GMT -5
Ok so I don't usually do anything to enhance the shine of my cabs. But I have one where, for various reasons, I want to.
I'm considering trying something tonight involving (probably) E330 epoxy (although I'm open to suggestions). I also have access to super glue, various varieties of Hot Stuff, and Opticon.
Is there a trick to it? The rock is a jasper and has a coupla very small pits, and the surface is just kinda gungy and scratched and won't take a good shine. Is the procedure just to smear on a thin (thick?) coat of epoxy, wait for it to dry, and start sanding on like a 500 grit wheel? I don't have a vacuum pump. Should I lock it in a baggie for awhile with the epoxy on?
The rock's plenty stable, I just want it to get shinier than it's willing to get on its own.
Thanks!
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Post by deb193redux on May 12, 2013 18:10:28 GMT -5
you can fill the puts, and some of the scratches. but as you sand the resin and polish, the scratches may lose their resin.
unless the stone is porous, the resin is not really going to penetrate, vacuum or not.
Opticon is harder than 330, and you might have better results if you thin it a little because Opticon is thick.
I am actually wondering if you should use a polish with a little wax/filler in it. Some have a little paraffin. This could fill scratches.
Good luck.
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Post by johnjsgems on May 13, 2013 7:41:31 GMT -5
How about sanding out the scratches and cutting around the pits? Or are the pits everywhere? Even nice jaspers have occasional "mud holes" but if only one or two you can usually cut around them.
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Post by Bluesky78987 on May 13, 2013 8:20:47 GMT -5
It's already cabbed John.
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Post by phil on May 13, 2013 9:52:32 GMT -5
Maybe tell us what polishing you've already done? And a pic would be nice. Have you polished it to 3000, 14000, 50000, or an oxide or zam or ?? We might be better able to help if we knew what you did (and didn't).
Phil
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Post by Bluesky78987 on May 13, 2013 10:03:28 GMT -5
I pretty much just want any tips anybody has on cheating using epoxy (etc). Daniel's answer is along the lines of what I was looking for.
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Post by NatureNut on May 13, 2013 10:12:58 GMT -5
Maybe try using some Zam after the Opticon (or 330.)
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Post by Bluesky78987 on May 13, 2013 10:14:44 GMT -5
Cool, thanks Jo.
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Post by tntmom on May 13, 2013 11:36:22 GMT -5
you can fill the puts, and some of the scratches. but as you sand the resin and polish, the scratches may lose their resin. unless the stone is porous, the resin is not really going to penetrate, vacuum or not. Opticon is harder than 330, and you might have better results if you thin it a little because Opticon is thick. I am actually wondering if you should use a polish with a little wax/filler in it. Some have a little paraffin. This could fill scratches. Good luck. Good thread Susan! Daniel, what type of wax/paraffin polish are you talking about? I had some pitting in a Shattuckite that I desperately want to get rid of but the Hxtal didn't hold (came back out when I repolished it). I think I remember someone saying that after polish you can buff the stone with neutral shoe polish to fill an exposed pit or two. Is this what you are referring to? And if I did that, would the wax come out during wear? |
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Tom
fully equipped rock polisher
My dad Tom suddenly passed away yesterday, Just wanted his "rock" family to know.
Member since January 2013
Posts: 1,557
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Post by Tom on May 15, 2013 20:37:18 GMT -5
Hi Krystee
I think I know what you are trying to do, I have had decent success using the medium thick hot stuff, the orange bottle I think. After that drys real good I smooth the cab and polish best I can with diamond. Then (the cheating, not counting the glue) is a nice coating of renaissance wax (Rio grande) and a buff, this worked really well on some Turritella I had.
I have used ren wax on ancient coins for years it's really good stuff. Heat your cab till its just to hot to hold. Put on the wax with a que tip, it will melt and flow into cracks, and let dry real good. Buff it up with flex tool etc and see how nice it gets:). If the pits and scratches are not bad forget the glue step.
The wax is pretty tough but will most likely where off with wear.
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Post by Bluesky78987 on May 15, 2013 20:41:54 GMT -5
(Hijacking your answer for Krystee . . . )
Hey that's a good idea about the renaissance wax . . . the part of my cab I want to use it on is mostly protected -- behind a mesh (kind of mesh, filigree) setting back, so it might not wear off. Will try that tonight and report the initial results.
I tried E330 so far. I put on too much, thinking I would polish it off. But when I tried to polish it off on the flat lap, it polished off unevenly, and the parts where it was on looked plasticky.
Another thing I might try is just the sealer from the Opticon kit. But we'll see how the wax does first.
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Post by deb193redux on May 15, 2013 21:00:53 GMT -5
Sorry I spaced on this thread. I was thinking of polishing compounds of AO that used paraffin as a binder. I think if you can find one with a higher amount of paraffin, and you polish with minimal dampness so as to get a little heat, you might fill some surface defects. Larger one will require some sort of resin. "Binding/Bonding Materials The bonding material has little if any effect on the cutting or polishing action of the agents and it appears that all of them use similar binding materials. Stearic acid (animal fat acid), and paraffin wax (mineral grease) seem to be the predominate materials." - www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/buffing-material.htm |
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Tom
fully equipped rock polisher
My dad Tom suddenly passed away yesterday, Just wanted his "rock" family to know.
Member since January 2013
Posts: 1,557
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Post by Tom on May 16, 2013 7:44:52 GMT -5
Oops sorry about the name thing Susan:) Give it a try Susan it won't hurt, I should have mentioned that epoxy 330 won't work. It needs to be treated like you would amber, very slow to keep the heat down too nothing. The plasticy decription you give is a perfect way to express the look. Even if the ren wax will wear off it may take years of constant use. Think of a waxed floor in a school, gets walked on lots. Ok don't try the opticon without the hardener, it will never ever harden. I am by no means a pro, still a rookie, but I hope the wax works. Because then I had a good idea  Let us know how it goes Susan Take care Tom |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 16, 2013 13:31:18 GMT -5
pictures or it dond't happen!
seriously, good luck!
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Post by Bluesky78987 on May 16, 2013 13:40:55 GMT -5
Well I tried the renaissance wax this morning and it seems to be working nicely, giving a nice sheen without looking fake. However I want to put on a few more layers of it as just one layer isn't filling the scratches very well. I remember my mom layering on show polish, should work about the same I suppose. Yeah, I'll post pics of the cab and setting, I'm pretty proud of it! It was fun and very difficult for me as a beginner silversmith. |
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Tom
fully equipped rock polisher
My dad Tom suddenly passed away yesterday, Just wanted his "rock" family to know.
Member since January 2013
Posts: 1,557
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Post by Tom on May 16, 2013 18:00:28 GMT -5
Glad it's working out Susan, can't wait to see a picture
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 21, 2013 17:40:52 GMT -5
well..... ??
Any updates Susan??
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Post by Bluesky78987 on May 25, 2013 21:45:40 GMT -5
Ok, here's the update. The wax worked pretty well to shine up the back a little. It changed it from a dull matte finish to a sort of satin finish, which was fine for this setting. It didn't fill the big pit, but it filled the little pits. I used I think 4 layers of wax. This was a rock I found on my first trip to Lavic last year. I like to say this mantra when I look at it: I found it; I chose it; I carried it back to the car (it was HOT!). I slabbed it; I cabbed it; I polished it. I polished it again! (and again . . .) I set it. Now I wear it. Lapidary is such fun! This was a hard setting for me! Please ignore all the flaws! The front polished just fine. Not a Krystee shine, but pretty good. Looks shiny in the hand.   Here's the back, where I used the wax:   Setting side view:  I'd say the wax was good for this application. And it smells really nice! Thanks so much for the idea! The teardrop on the front has 1/8" posts which are glued into little holes I drilled in the front of the cab. It is covering up a "less shiny" spot on the face. Plus, this cab just had too much surface area; it needed a little something. The bail is the largest size square silver channel that Rio Grande carries. I think it is 4mm OD. |
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Post by deb193redux on May 25, 2013 22:33:27 GMT -5
i think it looks good
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 25, 2013 22:39:46 GMT -5
For super shiny fill the holes with good clear epoxy, sand smooth (? 5-600) then spray on several coats of clear lacquer paint. If you are careful and do not spray it too thick each time it will not be noticeable to the average eye. It will wear pretty good and if it gets dull you can spray it again. Super cheating but what the hey, it looks really good just like a custom car.  Jim Modified to say that the pendant looks great. I really like the design on the front. Jim |
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