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Post by petrifiedwoodfarm on Jul 24, 2013 23:52:36 GMT -5
Obvious new to the forum here Ladies & Gents.
I have read the recent post from June about the bad publicity this saw receives here at this forum. After reading the posts I went to have a look at my saw, and I sure wish I had the fortune to find this thread before we headed to L.A. (Redlands, CA) to go to Covington Engineering blind as a newbie a couple weeks back. I now see the engineering faults many talked about on this unit.
To date, I have not powered up the saw. I did not even purchase the Rockhound Oil.
My main goal with this saw is to cut fragments of Arizona Petrified Wood from a quarter section of land we own down there.
Now for a few questions:
(1) Has anyone used a vegetable based oil with a rock saw? I was considering Canola Oil Based product called BIO342 (I'm sure most if not all people on this forum have never heard of this product, it is used as a diesel additive for the farmers here in Saskatchewan). The flashpoint of Canola Oil is 600 deg F, so it passes the high flashpoint for oil to use, and it doesn't stink. If anyone has ever used a vegetable based oil for cutting rocks, are there any pros or cons to consider here? (It is a very Viscus Fluid, so I can't foresee it getting gummy (clogging issues) or breaking down). Also can it be used straight from the jug, or does it need to be diluted down with water (and if so, what ratio would be recommended here?). I'm trying to steer away from using water in this saw, since as everyone knows, it is darn hard to gain access to the holding tanks to clean & dry everything after a use.
(2) If a vegetable based oil is out of the question for cutting rocks, I do believe that Mineral Oil is a recommendation by some. Once again, can it be used straight up, or should it be diluted, and a recommended ratio for its use. Also Pros & Cons.
(3) Also on the topic of Mineral Oil, since I do live in Saskatchewan, Canada, are there any Canadian Rock Hounds on this forum that have a source for purchasing 5 Gal jugs?
(4) Onto the saw itself. I purchased the "Complete Package", Motor Drive & Plastic Cover. Reading through the manual, I must admit I'm a little lost! Since I will be running MOH's 7.5+ (Very Hard Rock) through the saw, I want to ensure the "Clutch ASSY" is adjusted to feed the rock very slowly. Can anyone assist me with a good description as to adjust the assy to ensure a slow cut to save my blade the best I can.
I also purchased from Covington Engineering the CabKing 6V3. A most wonderful unit, but mine has a flaw (rare from what I have read on various threads here & abroad). My Master Switch looses electricity to the magnet which holds the power for the unit. After about 5 minutes my unit will simply power down. I have to wait about 10-15 minutes (or sometimes longer) to start it back up for another go. CabKing.us has been on top of this situation, and have responded very quickly by sending my a new switch (in the mail as I write) with easy install directions (I have already had the switch out of the unit to see if the contacts were burning out or anything else that may seen out of the norm, but all looks well by the eye, so I put it back together and re installed the switch. With the same results, so I figure the magnet within the switch is failing (made in CHINA). We'll see if the new switch can rectify the situation for me! P.S. For the 5 minutes of up time I have with the unit, it is wonderfully relaxing!!!
So this brings me to my final question...
(5) Has any of our users here ever had any problems or issues with their own (or club's) CabKing 6V3??? Or did I just win the lottery at Covington??? Any Personal experiences here would be gratefully appreciated as well!
Thanks for taking your time reading my post. I look forward to what you have to share with us.
Michael Saskatchewan, Canada
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Post by jakesrocks on Jul 25, 2013 0:11:05 GMT -5
Vegetable oil will turn rancid in a very short time. Mineral oil won't. If you have a tractor or farm supply store near you, you can use one of 2 products. Hydraulic oil, or horse laxative oil. Since the Covington 10" doesn't hold a lot of oil, you can even use the cheapest store brand baby oil that you can find. You'll have sweet smelling slabs, and your hands will be soft and smooth as a babies butt.
I have an old 1960's or 70's 10" Covington. There were some differences between them and the newer saws, so I'll let someone familiar with the newer saws answer your clutch questions.
Oh, and welcome aboard from South Dakota.
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Post by petrifiedwoodfarm on Jul 25, 2013 1:14:21 GMT -5
Were on the right track here!
Thanks Don for your time. I work for the Saskatchewan Co-Op (Bulk Fuel Div), so I know I have access to Mineral & Hydraulic Oils, and I even have about 1/2+ of a 5 gal pail of Hydraulic Oil I used for my Hydraulic Pump on my truck when I blew a hose some time ago. Its just been sitting there wasting the space in my truck! I just might have to tidy up my storage area, like real soon! Thanks for opening the door to my mind!
I've modded the front of my unit (I want to duplicate what I did to the 2nd (L/H) drain port too), by adding a little plumbing and a ball valve for frequent draining of the sludge. I was informed it builds up fast when Pet Wood is cut, and there is no glass front to tell you your tank is building up with crud. Just a little preventive medicine.
Michael
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milto
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since January 2010
Posts: 162
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Post by milto on Jul 25, 2013 8:19:15 GMT -5
Welcome what part of Sask, I was born in the Estevan area, live in USA.Covington saw is a work horse, I just replaced bearings and housing after many tons of rocks of all kinds.
Your switch dropping out sounds like it is working as needed.Check your voltage at the plug, would guess your running low.If you really suspect switch Covington people will work with you, great bunch of people.I use 3 phase power in my shop and all I use are magnetic switches they are pretty rugged normally.
Enjoy the hobby and if anyway we can help give a email and will try to help.Have several Canadian rockers that I help with purchases that they might not be able to buy in Canada (freight).
milto
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Post by petrifiedwoodfarm on Jul 25, 2013 9:28:10 GMT -5
Hi Milto. We are in Lucky Lake (West side of the Riverhurst Ferry). Was in the Oil Patch in Estevan for a few years.
I am looking forward to many years of work from my unit as well. The 1510 saw is not the problem (It just does not have any fluid right now, until later today as mentioned above). My CabKing 6V3 is what is dropping off. I have it on an extension cord to the house (less than 10' away from the GFI receptical), but who knows about the power dropping off! My other power tools that I run off of it (one at a time), have never been an issue. I do agree with you about magnetic switches though, as I am well accustomed to their usage as power horses from the Air Force (Moose Jaw, etc.).
Will have the line voltage checked.
Thanks for dropping by!
Michael
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jul 25, 2013 11:16:41 GMT -5
Due to recent research into saws/oils prior to saw purchase I have something to add.
Since you are familiar with oils in general, I have learned the goal is to get the lightest viscosity oil. The equivalent of SAE 5'ish. I'd hazard to guess synthetic SAE 5 would be even better but expensive!
As I am a relative newbie I will smile while accepting correction from others who have better info.
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Post by Rockoonz on Jul 25, 2013 12:19:50 GMT -5
When choosing cutting oil if possible find the cSt viscosity. Ideal cSt is 4-7. There is no equivalent SAE since it is a different test, but I would estimate between 1-2 sae if there were lube oils that thin. Any oil rated by SAE will have additives to keep contaminants in suspension so they can be filtered out in an engine or hydraulics. That is not ideal for a cutting oil, you want them to drop to the bottom so they don't cause the blade to wear more quickly. Scott I am not sure about synthetic oil bases, if I had the time I might search for synthetic cutting oils. I have some amsoil 0-50 racing oil I used in laycock overdrive transmissions... Now that I think about it synthetics are valued because they stay on the parts in your engine or pump, that would make them harder to remove from the slabs. Hydraulic oils are the worst, and are an extreme health hazard for breathing the mist. I would just get a gallon of the rockhound oil.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jul 25, 2013 13:35:18 GMT -5
awesome lee!
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 25, 2013 14:03:06 GMT -5
I think the mineral oils are rated SUS or something. You need 100 or less. A food grade mineral oil would be the safest. Tech grade or "white" mineral oil also would be good. The horse laxatives are food grade (they pour it down a horse's throat by the gallon). Baby oil has to be safe as well but I don't know what the thickness is.
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Post by petrifiedwoodfarm on Jul 25, 2013 18:50:18 GMT -5
Thanks for this additional information of the oils. Yes, the Industrial Synthetic Hydraulic Oil I had available seems that it is a little too thick for my liking. Even though I do not have Mineral Oil to compare the viscosity with, you can clearly see that it is thinner than 10W30. So I have decided to shelve this idea and search for some Mineral Oil.
Even while I am draining the oil from the tank, you can clearly see that it is a tad on the thick side, just by the amount of time it is taking to drain it from the right side of the reservoir. I even have the unit lifted in the back to drain as much oil from the unit as possible. It seems as though I should have also crafted the plumbing on the left side of the reservoir. Now to figure out how I am to clean that side without making a mess all over the shop bench & floor! (Hmm... My wife won't notice the Turkey Baster missing...).
One point that I made note of while I spun the saw up for a wet run was with the needle valve and the quantity of oil needed in the right tank to feed into the left side. Reading the instructions, Covington suggests that the top plate is left on. Well how do you know how much fluid passes from right to left through the needle valve if you can not see the flow from one side to the next? Also... how much fluid is supposed to come off of the blade when it is immersed in 1/4"-3/8" (once again, how do you know how much fluid is the blade sitting in without removing the top plate???)(not to mention the tiny fingers issue when installing the top plate back on the table!).
Oh, I can see this may be a little confusing!!! Not the finest of engineering thought process. I have yet to put a rock to the saw!!! Maybe it is easier for those who have access to a Club where visual assistance is easier (hands on assistance). I have tried to see if someone have placed a 5 minute video on YouTube showing the finer details of the unit. Covington should have done this if you ask me.
Thanks for the assistance all... Keep the ideas flowing (please!).
Michael
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 25, 2013 19:41:30 GMT -5
With most saws it is easiest to remove the table for initial fill. Get it so the oil just covers the cutting rim. Reinstall the table and observe the drip (not spray) at the blade guard. Should be a steady drip. AS you lose fluid cutting the drip will decrease. Open the valve until the initial drip rate is restored. That is one feature that may be an advantage. I've owned two Frantoms over the years. They have a single sump. I had to carefully poor a little oil over the blade until the initial drip rate restored. I think it took a couple of oil showers to get the LITTLE BIT part right. Overfilling will really make a mess too. Excess oil will fly everywhere. You only need the oil where the blade contacts the rock. Not all over the table, hood, outside, running out of every miniscule opening. And vegetable based oils as mentioned get rancid. They also hold the sludge getting thicker and thicker. There is a soy based oil somebody sells. I've heard it causes heavy corrosion and strips paint off. Hard to beat mineral oil. Or the Roc-Cut, Lube Cool type water sojubles if you drain and save after use and keep blade dry. With any saw, keep the carriage and vise parts clean. A WD40 wash down and greasing of threaded rods etc. will help keep things working better on any saw.
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Post by petrifiedwoodfarm on Jul 25, 2013 20:35:56 GMT -5
Great common sense tips John! At least I did something right!
I was able to work the flow to just over one drop a second. Not too fast, not too slow, and I saw a slight sheen on the table just in front of the saw. So once that rate has been established, I just need to close the needle valve, and wait for it to slow down slightly, then re-open the valve and repeat the process. Sounds easy enough. Also draining the reservoirs, straining the drained fluid and wipe down the table & light spray wipe-down with WD40 & brush on White Lithium Grease on the rods. Once again, simple preventive maintenance!
I know there are more great tips out there, come on everyone now's the time to share! Let's help the Newbies!!! (Me first!).
Michael
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Post by rockmanken on Jul 25, 2013 21:21:45 GMT -5
On the Cab King, it might be the capacitor on the motor. If it gets real hot, it could be the culprit. I increased mine from 2 microfarads to 4 microfarads. No more cutting out. Ken
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Post by petrifiedwoodfarm on Jul 25, 2013 21:48:31 GMT -5
Hey Ken that is cool info! Is that the large capacitor (I'd say larger than 1 1/2") by the back (close to the motor on the R/H side when looking in from the hole when the switch is removed)? I was thinking that that capacitor would be next in line to the motor.
Also for Milto, as far as potential line voltage drops go, I have not checked the line voltage yet, but today I spun the 1510 up and it draws more amps than the 6V3 does (more than double) without any flaws. Mind you, the switch is more mechanical (toggles on/off via a push rod to the auto-feed motor), so is there a magnetic switch in this system? not too sure. Sure sounded sweet if you ask me during the wet run!
Michael
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 26, 2013 13:52:15 GMT -5
One good thing to do on any new equipment is remove the belt guard and check pulley set screws and pulley alignment. Also belt tension. You would not think anything would be wrong on a brand new unit but stuff happens. I worked in HVAC for a lot of years and had several late night service calls to install condenser fan blades that fell off a few hours after start up. Saves some potential grief to check everything first. Helps to familiarize yourself with your new toy too. Simple routine maintenance is needed on every piece of equipment.
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Post by Peruano on Jul 26, 2013 14:33:06 GMT -5
John, Good advice. I bought an unused (new?) Lortone Arbor (cab machine) with wheels and expandos installed, but within 30 minutes of startup the drive pulley was slipping due to a poorly seated set screw. A casual checkup of everything would have found it ahead of time. It made me go check all those wheels to make sure they were secure. Just to clarify, I'm not sure the error was Mr. Lortone's (it could have been the original owner who assembled the machine, and then failed to use it. Tom
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Post by petrifiedwoodfarm on Jul 26, 2013 18:48:54 GMT -5
I totally agree with you John & Tom! I did remove the shroud to inspect the tension of the belt & to observe its rotation & play, but I never thought of inspecting the set screws! Great pick up. I am an Aircraft Mechanic (C130 Hercules), which brings out the curiosity when it comes to mechanical toys.
Will do that once I pour in my Mineral Oil ($22.79/gal sucks!). It's also easier to access the "tiny fingers" nuts & washers with the shroud removed.
Michael
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Post by jakesrocks on Jul 26, 2013 19:28:26 GMT -5
Use a tiny bit of non hardening Lock Tite on your set screws to prevent them working loose.
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Post by petrifiedwoodfarm on Jul 26, 2013 23:01:32 GMT -5
Don, do you have a LockTite # or name to use? Is it Red or Blue? Thanks. This thread is very informative! I have now cut 3 small slabs with the saw. One was just an end (Upper Left), the next (Canter) was just a test, and the 3rd (Bottom) was a pretty good cut for a beginner. Its about 1/4" thick. I did notice that when the saw started to nibble into the end cut (Upper Left), small sparks were seen. Was this because of improper lubrication to the blade or just that it was a new blade? It lasted only through to the first half inch of the cut.
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Post by jakesrocks on Jul 26, 2013 23:22:35 GMT -5
Don't remember the color of the tube, but any auto parts store should have it. One tube will say hardening, and the other will say non hardening.
Looks like you're getting nice smooth cuts.
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