rxscram
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2011
Posts: 519
|
Post by rxscram on Sept 18, 2013 13:24:59 GMT -5
Question about saw blades... I have a Covington Gold blade on the saw, and a lot of the gold paint seems to be rubbing away a few inches in from the blade edge. Is this indicative of an alignment problem, or normal for those blades?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2013 15:17:59 GMT -5
I pretty much only cut maximum sized jaspers and agates. I'm curious... is there literature anywhere on recommended cut speeds, or is it all tribal knowledge? I couldn't find anything, but maybe part of the problem is not knowing where to look. I love the concept of tribal knowledge. A much nicer phrase than "dogma". Thanks for the new knowledge. |
|
|
|
Post by deb193redux on Sept 18, 2013 15:20:37 GMT -5
Question about saw blades... I have a Covington Gold blade on the saw, and a lot of the gold paint seems to be rubbing away a few inches in from the blade edge. Is this indicative of an alignment problem, or normal for those blades? if it is rubbing on both sides I would not worry. but that just my opinion. |
|
robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
|
Post by robsrockshop on Sept 20, 2013 13:45:54 GMT -5
Then again if you can afford the blades and it's cutting.........go for it. One time Steve from Covington told me if it were really hard agate he'd prefer 5" per hour. I think if someone understood a saw well enough, how it's sounding etc,and knows to keep the blade dressed maybe you could get away with it and if you were into it for production then you could afford it as well. I personally don't think a 20" per saw that's direct drive no clutch is a good choice for the general public. I've made clutches in the past with mixed results might try it again. Nothing beats hydraulic I don't think, and worm drive off the main motor but then expenses mount it all comes down to money.
|
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller 
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,612
|
Post by jamesp on Sept 21, 2013 9:33:04 GMT -5
Question about saw blades... I have a Covington Gold blade on the saw, and a lot of the gold paint seems to be rubbing away a few inches in from the blade edge. Is this indicative of an alignment problem, or normal for those blades? Removing the saw blade, cleaning it, and painting it and then running it is a real story teller on how good your alignment is. Yes, if the paint is rubbing off on both sides that is a good sign. My Covington saw has a fairly sophisticated set of adjustments. Some to change alignment and some just to adjust out any play. My experience with cutting hard agate with clean oil and a shiny finish that could be lapped to polish starting at 400 grit using a segmented 301S(or is it 303S)blade at manuf suggested rpm/feed rate 1) The paint on the blade should remain virtually untouched when carriage travel is exactly parallel to blade That's all. If you have no paint removal then the blade is bang on. If the oil is dirty or you are cutting sandy things like concrete there will be paint removal-equally on both side from crap in the cut. If you are cutting hard agate and your oil is clean the kerf is slightly wider than the thickness of the blade(since the diamonds are slightly wider) there should be no scrubbing on the blade faces.Since agate particles are very small. And a segmented blade is cleaner and more lubricated.But true for continuos also. I worked w/the Covington guy a lot on alignment so i could polish slab faces. He said the paint method is about as accurate of test as there is. Makes sense. Once you had it adjusted, take measurements from fixed spots on the front of the carriage and the rear of the carriage(actually the difference of the 2 measurements was what is needed) to the saw blade. I cut two little spacers.And then i ground them until each fit like a feeler gauge. outside of blade-to-carriage + close to center center of blade to carriage. So i put carriage in next to blade and cranked slab thickness adjustment till it barely held the first feeler gauge spacer and then slid the other into place to see if it had the required 'feeler gauge tightness'. If it was too lose or too tight the things were not right. Took 60 seconds to get micrometer grade measurement. Feeler gauging a gap like that is dead accurate. |
|
|
|
Post by 1dave on Oct 29, 2013 23:20:18 GMT -5
Question about saw blades... I have a Covington Gold blade on the saw, and a lot of the gold paint seems to be rubbing away a few inches in from the blade edge. Is this indicative of an alignment problem, or normal for those blades? if it is rubbing on both sides I would not worry. but that just my opinion. I agree, both sides, no sweat. One side, Problem! Blade bends as cut proceeds, end of blade. Clamp in a match stick that just touches the blade and slide the vice. Constant light contact and you are perfect. |
|
rxscram
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2011
Posts: 519
|
Post by rxscram on Sept 13, 2022 21:03:43 GMT -5
Tommy pointed out that the links on my pictures were bad, so I corrected them.
|
|
Tommy
Administrator 
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,989
|
Post by Tommy on Sept 13, 2022 21:22:52 GMT -5
Thank you sir! I deal with so many old threads where the photos are lost forever it's a real joy that you still had them  Your build has now been added to the new and improved DIY Equipment page coming soon. Here's a teaser lol.  |
|
