bsky4463
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2013
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Post by bsky4463 on Oct 29, 2013 14:07:59 GMT -5
Jim - great stuff, thanks for sharing. I with you on the build it bomber to minimize repairs and down time on everything... Cheers.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 29, 2013 18:43:20 GMT -5
The industrial junk yard close to me lacks in small, so all is large. Thanks
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2013 20:56:46 GMT -5
Why the space between the bushings? Why not cut the pipe shorters so bushings touch?
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 29, 2013 21:04:43 GMT -5
i will still split at the bushings Scott
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grayfingers
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Post by grayfingers on Oct 30, 2013 9:49:16 GMT -5
James, I am taking notes. I built a tumbler a few years ago, it runs 2, 12 lb. Lortone barrels. 1/3 horse motor, set to run the barrels at 35 rpm. I would like to build a barrel similar to your set-up to polish larger pieces of pet wood. I might have to go with heavier stock for the rollers though.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 30, 2013 12:49:46 GMT -5
That design is so similar to mine. or mine is to yours. great minds. it is a finger eating design too.
I have a 1/3 HP and it is rolling 4 barrels at a total of 70 pounds. I had a 1/2 H/P Bill.
I slowed a bit to 45 and 20 RPM when i put the smaller 1/3 because i had a pulley to fit it's smaller shaft.
The shaft sagging a bit may not be a problem. Those are self aligning bearings and can run sagging shafts.
Are the Lortone barrels too small?
The wood is a great and easy way to go. I am puzzled by the bolts with smaller bolts going thru them.
Or am i optically illusioned
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grayfingers
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Post by grayfingers on Oct 30, 2013 13:22:43 GMT -5
James, the bolts were these nifty things I found at the hardware store. They are an anchor, the bolt swells tight in the hole when those rods are tapped in. That first photo shows before final tighten up, was making sure it all was plumb and running true. It was just the ticket for mounting the pillow blocks. The second shot shows them seated.
The Lortone barrels will polish one or two larger stones per load, I am wanting to make something with a bit larger diameter, like maybe about 12". I really like tumbled specimens that are at least a handful, and good way to go with the nicer stuff that is too fractured to slab and cab.
The boards used were once my waterbed frame. . .
Yeah, I like running with no guards. I like to watch the wheels go round and round.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 30, 2013 13:57:55 GMT -5
I am going to avoid the last two statements. I will say that tumbling big stuff is way trickier at a rate of mild exponential. These are in the 10-12 once range. All i can say is put a few w/a bunch of other sizes. Seems like the big ones hit each other.....These did great w/wet shine.. So i tumbled these with 80% full and 8 inch barrel w/30 pounds at 18 rpm....,but at that slow speed i put a lot of 6-8 oncers w/these. I know that almost any king of fast is gonna frost. So turn em slow . Water bed frame ? And please watch the pinch point and the privates. After the effort required i only tumbled the finest not fractured stuff.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 30, 2013 14:20:31 GMT -5
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The Dad_Ohs
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Post by The Dad_Ohs on Oct 30, 2013 18:23:43 GMT -5
Dad_Ohs, that 58 mile round trip is it to get bigger than 4". Put a bunch of miles on the phone before the car. Thanks though. Larry The company that does pipe work near me and uses 6" pipe is only about 15 minutes from my house, so when I am ready it won't be difficult to get the pipe.... getting the angle iron to build the frame and the motor are the expensive parts for me. But I do know a guy....
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 30, 2013 20:31:29 GMT -5
I will never build a steel one. That started as steel and had to be added w/steel(logically). Bill's wood frame is THE way to go. Fast easy simple cheap and strong. The 2nd one i built was out of wood and it is sweet Mario. That one is sitting on one inch shafts and i ran a 90 pound barrel on it. Oh, and a 1/6 HP 1000RPM A/C fan motor. A/C fan motors come in 720 and 1000 RPM. Makes pulleys easier.
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quartz
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breakin' rocks in the hot sun
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Post by quartz on Oct 30, 2013 21:38:06 GMT -5
I built one out of wood too, it runs tandem instead of axial. Thought I'd done it easy when I got a packing crate just the right size from work. Laid it on its side with the original lid off. Worked great, just like a big speaker. Didn't take long to change it. Wood framing is good, cheap, easy, and plenty strong, just not a box. Larry
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 30, 2013 21:54:10 GMT -5
Two by's are plenty strong. Actually quieter on wood.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 31, 2013 12:20:20 GMT -5
I also like having several barrels instead of one big one. I like 8 inches most, 10 an 12 are for cowboys. Those rascals are heavy(Larry)!!
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quartz
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breakin' rocks in the hot sun
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Post by quartz on Oct 31, 2013 21:58:51 GMT -5
Yup, 100# each, and no handles. Makes one really appreciate Aleve & Co.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 31, 2013 22:23:10 GMT -5
They are like handling a greased pig. 100#'s-dang it man
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The Dad_Ohs
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Post by The Dad_Ohs on Nov 1, 2013 21:21:24 GMT -5
so I was looking at the pic of the barrel that is wearing thin and may have an idea for you James..... If you put a coupling in between the 2 end caps and keep the pipe short enough that does not show but merely provides an area to join the ends & coupling together, it should last even longer because it will be thicker than the 8" pipe by itself and the glue used to bond it all together will provide even more strength so no 1 spot is weak.
Shouldn't add more than a few inches to the overall size and the added amount of room would be negligible too, hows that sound??
Mario
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Nov 1, 2013 21:32:27 GMT -5
Here is the problem Mario. If you butt the 2 couplings together it still splits at the 'seam' between the couplings. Just because the pipe is not showing it is still only covered by a seam.
Do you see it? And splitting a short length of pipe down in there is cheap and easy. I boiled the insert and it was real easy to form,then pour cold water on it.
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The Dad_Ohs
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Take me to your Labradorite!!
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Post by The Dad_Ohs on Nov 1, 2013 21:46:29 GMT -5
Here is the problem Mario. If you butt the 2 couplings together it still splits at the 'seam' between the couplings. Just because the pipe is not showing it is still only covered by a seam. Do you see it? And splitting a short length of pipe down in there is cheap and easy. I boiled the insert and it was real easy to form,then pour cold water on it. ahh, ok, I see what you are saying.. I was figuring on not just gluing the pipes to the fittings but also the fittings to each other along the seams to help with the holding power of it. But I can see where it will weaken as you pointed out... but then again... we will never learn if we don't ask questions... thanx bro!
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Nov 2, 2013 5:51:41 GMT -5
Mario-even the pipe stuck down in the coupling will leak if you do not glue the pipe all the way like 3 inches into the coupling. I stuck one together and gained some length by only sticking the pipe 1.5 inches into the coupling and the joint leaked. And leaked. And leaked. The reversing action of rotation is a powerful force. It only took 6-9 months to wear thru the SDR 35 thin wall green pipe. I would guess 5 years for sch 40. And probably 10 years w/sleeve. I may tumble bricks, chunks of steel and nonferruos metals, glass chunks big as tennis balls and worst is removing the skin off my small whole corals. So i use them for obnoxious stuff. Glad you see what i experienced.
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