Tom
fully equipped rock polisher
My dad Tom suddenly passed away yesterday, Just wanted his "rock" family to know.
Member since January 2013
Posts: 1,557
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Post by Tom on Nov 11, 2013 22:56:17 GMT -5
Hi all
My power feed on my lortone LS12 is giving me trouble. It will start to cut a rock, in fact it works fin on small rocks, but once the blade comes to a certain thickness it stops feeding. Now to be clear the power feed is still turning but the carriage slips on the ready rod/worm gear. Has this happened to anyone before? The blade is brand new 303 and dressed proper
I know I just changed to water based cutting juice but I am certain it's not that.
A week ago before I put the new coolant and blade in, I had my old blade jam in a rock and trip the overload on the motor. It was quite some time till I went back and I imagine the power feed kept on pushing, the lever you pull back just moves back from the forward pressure of the feed and then snaps ahead again over and over and over. I figure this must have worn out the piece that makes contact with the threaded rod and wore it out. Sound feasible? (rod looks in good shape)
I know we are never suposed to leave our saws alone, but do any of us do that really:). Realy should be an interlock to stop the feed motor if the main moto stops for any reason.
Has this happened to anyone and can you tell me the part to order, I can't figure out the right number from my drawing
Thanks
Ton
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Post by catmandewe on Nov 11, 2013 23:29:18 GMT -5
Hey Tom, Your split nut is supposed to be the wear part but sometimes it also wears the threads down on the rod. Try 053-107 first, if that doesn't fix it then you need 053-001. Sometimes you can put a stronger spring on there and it will work again but it is usually a temporary fix.
Good luck with it..............Tony
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Post by Rockoonz on Nov 11, 2013 23:44:59 GMT -5
I'm going with water based coolant on a 12 inch blade. I know there's always coincidences, but I find that when I change something like that it should be the first thing I look at.
Lee
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Nov 12, 2013 0:18:26 GMT -5
The first thing I would do is thoroughly inspect the threaded feed rod and make sure there isn't a sliver of rock wedged in the threads and that there is not any damage to the threads. A small fine steel wire brush is good to clean the feed rod with. If that's all clear then it might be time to replace the 213-002 Spring. If the spring is losing enough of it's tension the problem you are describing will occur. If it isn't the spring tension then I would go back to using oil and see if the problem persists. If it does persist then I would remove the feed rod and inspect the half nut. Check it for thread damage or obstruction.
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Tom
fully equipped rock polisher
My dad Tom suddenly passed away yesterday, Just wanted his "rock" family to know.
Member since January 2013
Posts: 1,557
|
Post by Tom on Nov 12, 2013 8:30:57 GMT -5
Thanks for the responses guys!
Lee I hear you about coincidences, but the way this all came down I am pretty sure that its not the coolant. The damage happened before I put in the blade and coolant. I can't remember for sure but I bet the feed was driving for an hour while the blade motor was tripped. That would be a lot of wear on something.
qualriver, I did inspect the rod well, also I tried cutting with rock placement in several different spots so I am pretty certain the feed rod is good.
Tony, I did not know that the split nut is the intended wear point, makes sense and shows lortone put in some thought to this problem. Although I guess these saws have about a 30 year history so they should have that figured out. I still think they should have an interlock to prevent the feed from operating when the blade is not turning. Ya ya, we must never leave the saw unattended:) I might put an interlock on myself, might have the fixings for the doings in the garage.
On a side note, if I was engineering these saws that have an electric feed I would put a torque drive motor on the feed, that way X amount of torque can be set and the speed of the drive will be determined by torque. If the main motor stops the feed motor will stop at the torque set point and just sit there. They are designed to do that.
Tony I will order the nut today and the spring just because, thanks so much for the part numbers gentlemen, after I get the parts and replace them I will continue the water based test. Its so nice to have the water base I really hope it works and that Lee is wrong:) Shotgunner used it on his 20 inch?? 24 inch?? and he reported it cut well but he felt he needed to dress the blade about about 8 cuts.
Thanks for the prompt help and have a great day!
Tom
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bsky4463
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2013
Posts: 1,696
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Post by bsky4463 on Nov 12, 2013 11:10:00 GMT -5
Tom I am not sure if the 1/2 nut on the Lortone is similar to the Raytech, but if it is I was able to re-mill the 1/2 nut by shaving a few 1000ths off each face of the block and then redrilled and rethreaded the opening. It took less than 15 minutes and saved me from buying a $75 1/2 nut assembly. If you dont have the equipment a machine shop could do it in no time at all. Good luck. Cheers Andy
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leadbelly713
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since June 2011
Posts: 104
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Post by leadbelly713 on Nov 12, 2013 15:03:55 GMT -5
I agree with Tony, My old lortone st10 drive was slipping and I put a stiffer spring on it, I have not had a problem with it since. ps. that was over two years ago.
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Tom
fully equipped rock polisher
My dad Tom suddenly passed away yesterday, Just wanted his "rock" family to know.
Member since January 2013
Posts: 1,557
|
Post by Tom on Nov 12, 2013 17:46:08 GMT -5
Ordered a nut and spring today, not sure of the cost. This looks more like a 3/8's inch NF thread but I have not taken it apart yet as I have not looked to see how. I can see a stronger spring working but I will replace both, if I can fix up the nut I will and will have a spare.
I think if I can find a current relay I will put that on the main motor, and interlock it with the feed motor. That way if there is no current in the blade motor the feed will stop. Or I will use the overload contact in the motor and drive a relay to control things.
The other way is better though because the saw has to be running for the feed to advance. Many ways to do it just need to find the stuff to do it free LOL
Thanks everyone
Tom
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