blackout5783
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since November 2011
Posts: 248
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Post by blackout5783 on Jun 13, 2014 17:15:37 GMT -5
When I first got this saw (raytech L-10S) it still had the original gasket under the flip up table, but it was in pretty bad shape. I limped along with it for a while (leaking everywhere and generally making a big mess) before I decided to replace it. I used heavy duty weather stripping and it worked great until the adhesive started to fail from the oil in about two or three months. So I've been going along this way for a while, but I'm tired of replacing the damn thing all the time!
So it's time to replace it again, and my brain comes up with this idea. Could I use a bead of Permatex for the gasket? Whatever the most oil/grease resistant one is. Flip up the table, pull off the old weather stripping, clean it really well, and lay a bead on the bottom of the table where it meets the sump when it's down. Wait for it to dry while open, and away we go.
Now comes the part where someone finds a hole in my idea. I'd actually prefer that to putting the stuff on there and then finding a problem. I'd really rather not have to scrape it off, and if anyone knows this isn't going to work let me know!
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Jun 13, 2014 19:13:54 GMT -5
Another option is to cut a new gasket out of sheet neoprene. Neoprene cuts easily with a sharp X-acto knife. Any good industrial supply house will carry rolls of it in various thicknesses. The local one I shop at sells it for round a couple of bucks per square foot. After cutting the gasket clean the surface of your saw that you want to glue it to very well with NAPTHA or lacquer thinner to remove all the oil residue. Then epoxy the new neoprene gasket in place where the original one was. As long as the neoprene sheet you use is the proper thickness to get a good seal this will work as well as the original gasket. Larry C.
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Post by phil on Jun 13, 2014 19:15:29 GMT -5
You do know that the "perm" part of permatex stands for permanent? I'd use cork. You can buy sheets and rolls of it at many office supply stores, hobby stores, etc.
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blackout5783
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since November 2011
Posts: 248
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Post by blackout5783 on Jun 13, 2014 20:12:04 GMT -5
You do know that the "perm" part of permatex stands for permanent? I'd use cork. You can buy sheets and rolls of it at many office supply stores, hobby stores, etc. I'm fine with permanent. I was going to have it set while the table is up, not use it to adhere it closed. I'll look into the neoprene Larry. Thanks for the info.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jun 13, 2014 20:23:34 GMT -5
Grainger sells sheets of rubber gasket material in various thicknesses.i had to replace mine about a year ago.think it cost $20-25.it hasn't leaked since,and I didn't need to adhere it to the saw either.just my 4 cents Dave
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Post by jakesrocks on Jun 13, 2014 21:13:51 GMT -5
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quartz
Cave Dweller
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,352
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Post by quartz on Jun 13, 2014 23:49:13 GMT -5
I did our 8" and 10" with material cut out of an innertube, no stickum required, and no leaks. Tire store gives junk ones away, saves on their dump bill.
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1nickthegreek
spending too much on rocks
Member since February 2014
Posts: 383
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Post by 1nickthegreek on Jun 14, 2014 3:36:40 GMT -5
Another option is to cut a new gasket out of sheet neoprene. Neoprene cuts easily with a sharp X-acto knife. Any good industrial supply house will carry rolls of it in various thicknesses. The local one I shop at sells it for round a couple of bucks per square foot. After cutting the gasket clean the surface of your saw that you want to glue it to very well with NAPTHA or lacquer thinner to remove all the oil residue. Then epoxy the new neoprene gasket in place where the original one was. As long as the neoprene sheet you use is the proper thickness to get a good seal this will work as well as the original gasket. Larry C. Naptha will leave an oily residue, I recommend straight acetone as the naptha will take too much work to clean the oil off LOL
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Jun 14, 2014 9:53:28 GMT -5
Another option is to cut a new gasket out of sheet neoprene. Neoprene cuts easily with a sharp X-acto knife. Any good industrial supply house will carry rolls of it in various thicknesses. The local one I shop at sells it for round a couple of bucks per square foot. After cutting the gasket clean the surface of your saw that you want to glue it to very well with NAPTHA or lacquer thinner to remove all the oil residue. Then epoxy the new neoprene gasket in place where the original one was. As long as the neoprene sheet you use is the proper thickness to get a good seal this will work as well as the original gasket. Larry C. Naptha will leave an oily residue, I recommend straight acetone as the naptha will take too much work to clean the oil off LOL It's true that NAPTHA is a weaker solvent than acetone and lacquer thinner are but that is an advantage when you don't want to damage the paint or finish on the item you are working on. I used NAPTHA almost daily for twenty-four years to remove wax and oil from new furniture that had been damaged in transit or at the store before repairing and respraying it with nitrocellulose lacquer. I never had any problem with an oily residue remaining. NAPTHA also will dissolve most sticky adhesive residues left behind from things like price stickers and tape without harming the finish. The auto body repair industry used to use NAPTHA too for cleaning wax and oil from automobiles before repainting them. Larry C.
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