ajaj
off to a rocking start
Member since June 2014
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Post by ajaj on Jun 27, 2014 6:30:54 GMT -5
I need some guidance on a 10" Frantom that I recently bought. I think I need to replace the bearings/arbor, and probably both since I am having a hard time separating both from each other. Any ideas who would have replacement parts?
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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 27, 2014 9:56:30 GMT -5
I took my first Frantom apart and found bearings had numbers on them. Can't remember now what brand but one of the old standards like Fafnir. I went to an ag supply near where I worked and they ordered them for me. Any bearing supplier like King Bearing or Kaman Bearing can help you as well. Or accurately measure the inside and outside diameters and width (including outer shape flat or curved) and find them online. I bought Chinese bearings for Lortone for $6 ea. If I was rebuilding a saw for keeps I would go the name brand route in hopes I would not have to replace them again. The shaft on mine was OK but any machine shop or metal fabricator shop could make a new one. Can't remember if the bearings were pressed on or not but once you get the shaft/bearings out the same machine shop could remove the bearings if you can't.
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QuailRiver
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Post by QuailRiver on Jun 27, 2014 12:31:15 GMT -5
Try keeping the bearings and arbor soaked with Kroil for a day or two to loosen them up. Most lapidary saws use common types of bearings that can be purchased at industrial supply houses. Just Google "bearings" and your zip code and you should be able to find a local supply house. Take your old ones in to show them and they should be able to match them to new ones for you. If you have the 10" Frantom model that has the bearings pressed into a housing that mounts on the outside of the saw you'll probably need a bearing puller to remove the bearings from the housing without damaging the housing. Larry C.
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ajaj
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Member since June 2014
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Post by ajaj on Jun 27, 2014 12:38:18 GMT -5
I guess I will need a bearing puller! This will be an interesting project for me as I cant even get the housing off as the inner flanges are stuck (set screw rusted if not stripped) Thanks for the advice guys! The more the merrier! I will try to post a pic tonight. Maybe someone can help me out with how/what bearing puller to use. I am clueless. I was trying to use pliers and a screwdriver...
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QuailRiver
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Post by QuailRiver on Jun 27, 2014 12:50:53 GMT -5
Kroil will help loosen up those rusted flange nuts too. Just tilt the machine where gravity will help the kroil get where it needs to go and keep it wet with kroil for a day or two if necessary. I have a set of these pullers from harbor freight. www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-three-jaw-puller-set-8832.htmlThey are cheaply made but have always worked for what I need. Larry C.
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bushmanbilly
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Post by bushmanbilly on Jun 27, 2014 13:05:08 GMT -5
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bushmanbilly
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Post by bushmanbilly on Jun 27, 2014 13:11:11 GMT -5
If you can wait a day I will pull the arbor on my saw and do a step by step for ya.
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ajaj
off to a rocking start
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Post by ajaj on Jun 27, 2014 16:31:45 GMT -5
Yes that would be great. Thanks !
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ajaj
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Post by ajaj on Jun 27, 2014 18:19:31 GMT -5
here is what I am dealing with:
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bushmanbilly
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Post by bushmanbilly on Jun 27, 2014 20:46:59 GMT -5
If you can't get the set screws on the bearing stops. You will have to drill them out. Now the flange try you damedest to break that allen screw If you have to drill it, you will have to tap a new threat.
It seems that every saw is a little different. Yours has a allen screw on the flange. My one saw just has 2 identical flanges and the other is like yours but with a expansion pin. Just going to start ripping mine apart. Should have pictures up later tonight.
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quartz
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Post by quartz on Jun 27, 2014 21:27:09 GMT -5
Something that works well for me to get stuck setscrews out: Support the shaft [in a vise is good] with the setscrew on top. Heat the collar up good and hot with a propane or butane torch, and drop some automatic transmission fluid on the screw, keep it wet 'till it cools.
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stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
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Post by stephent on Jun 27, 2014 22:32:08 GMT -5
First thing I would do is lose that can of WD-40 and get some real penetrating oil. There's a lot of *real* penetrating oil out there. Knock-er-loose is pretty good. Ditto for several others. I use an "L" type allen wrench and spray heck outa the setscrew...put allen wrench in hole and tap the bend part with a hammer while turning in the "loosen-up" direction...righty tighty...lefty loosen.. If it doesn't move..squirt it good and tap again and let it set for 10-15 minutes...try again. Tap..while turning and spray. Repeat for 3-4 times. They should come free. Tapping and patience usually wins. IF ya have a decent penetrating spray anyway...WD-40 is not.
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bushmanbilly
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Post by bushmanbilly on Jun 27, 2014 22:54:29 GMT -5
Something that works well for me to get stuck setscrews out: Support the shaft [in a vise is good] with the setscrew on top. Heat the collar up good and hot with a propane or butane torch, and drop some automatic transmission fluid on the screw, keep it wet 'till it cools. Thanks I will have to use that trick. Good advice stepent.
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bushmanbilly
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Post by bushmanbilly on Jun 27, 2014 23:23:13 GMT -5
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ajaj
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Member since June 2014
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Post by ajaj on Jun 28, 2014 7:19:29 GMT -5
stephent- Thanks for the tip. Off to menards to see what oil they have and ill try your trick
bushmanbilly- a huge thank you for taking the time you did. I will work on in in the next few days after a long soak in new oil. please check back in a few days and check on my success (or failure)...
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bushmanbilly
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Post by bushmanbilly on Jun 28, 2014 11:37:50 GMT -5
No problem, glad we could help. Btw thanks for sparking the fire under my ass. I have been putting this job off for awhile now.
Welcome to the board.
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ajaj
off to a rocking start
Member since June 2014
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Post by ajaj on Jun 29, 2014 8:35:45 GMT -5
bushmanbilly- where did you get the stops (and the bearings) from?
I think I am going to have to drill the stops and the flanges. The saw side stop is bigger than the hold for the shaft, so I cannot even pull it out without getting the inner stop out. I applied penetrating oil to it and all it seemed to do was soften the crew, so now its stripped because I tried the hammer and turn method. I will try heat with a screw remover, but I honestly think it will be easier to drill out and hope to find new stops and even flanges (the inner flange has TWO frikin' screws, so double the problems!!!).
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bushmanbilly
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Post by bushmanbilly on Jun 29, 2014 10:16:19 GMT -5
I got he bearings at a my local machine shop. Just take the number I posted in the picture and they will cross reference them to their brand. On your flange you say there is 2 allen screws? Are you sure its not one of these. If it is just use a punch do drive it out.
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ajaj
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Member since June 2014
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Post by ajaj on Jun 29, 2014 10:27:03 GMT -5
Did you get the stops there as well? I am 100% positive its 2 allen screws. Going to need new flanges I think. starting to piss me off! Look at how they are positioned (at about 12 and 3 oclock:
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ajaj
off to a rocking start
Member since June 2014
Posts: 8
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Post by ajaj on Jun 29, 2014 10:28:01 GMT -5
its too dark to capture the screw, but there is there, not a pin. Also, with the position of the holes, no way you could hammer it out even if it was.
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