polishedball
noticing nice landscape pebbles
Member since August 2014
Posts: 89
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Post by polishedball on Sept 23, 2014 13:01:25 GMT -5
Recently after a bunch of cuts my saw blade is getting stuck in rocks and blowing the breaker. I read the stick on fixing the kerf, but is there a better or rather easier way than banging it with a hammer on edge? Thanks
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Post by Peruano on Sept 23, 2014 13:21:28 GMT -5
Blade bogging down can be a: dull blade; b: dished blade; c: vice sled not running true; d: rock slipping in vice such that its not true in cut slot; e: (close to a above (a blade that needs to be cleaned with a fire brick or soft material).
Some of these will be suggested if when the saw stops, you find resistance when you pull the sled back away from the blade. If its free then its not out of line, or bound by a loose vice trajectory or rock moved out of alignment. If its bound its one of these.
How worn is your blade. Is the kerf thicker than the blade center below it? Me I don't want to bang on my blade unless I have that as my last option. Maybe someone will give you a more detailed rundown on how to do it and when its justified. Tom
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herchenx
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2012
Posts: 3,360
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Post by herchenx on Sept 23, 2014 15:33:40 GMT -5
F. Too hard material, I ran into this trying to cut some owyhee. I couldn't adjust the feed rate on my saw so I abandoned the piece.
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Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,709
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Post by Fossilman on Sept 23, 2014 17:21:19 GMT -5
F. Too hard material, I ran into this trying to cut some owyhee. I couldn't adjust the feed rate on my saw so I abandoned the piece. Had a piece of petwood do that,even spun the belts on the pulleys....Abandoned the rock too...
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,487
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Post by Sabre52 on Sept 23, 2014 17:33:46 GMT -5
Ah rocksaws, can't live with them can't live without them. I have a hate-hate relationship with mine. I've reached the point where when cutting really hard agates and such, I sharpen after every rock I cut. New MK301 blade helps a bit too. I abandoned my 20 inch saw entirely as it never got good blade life no matter how much I sharpened it. Think the big blades are just much to prone to dishing and having the kerf of the blade round so much it sticks in the hole on wide cuts. Tom covered the reasons well but even when I was careful about all those issues the dang 20" saw always eventually started bogging down. I find the ten inch saw much more forgiving and reliable to use......Mel
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mikeinsjc
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2010
Posts: 329
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Post by mikeinsjc on Oct 10, 2014 11:00:14 GMT -5
A few things I've learned over the years; I always cut on the slowest speed, as new blades are too expensive to be in a hurry with, and I'm old so I'm not in a hurry. I use exclusively the MK303 segmented blades. Would recommend never trying to go cheap on your blades. The core metal on these blades is probably harder than the old US-made blades were, so the best way to dress these blades is to use an old carborundum grinding wheel. The square white dressing sticks, red bricks, concrete blocks, etc don't seem to work as well, sometimes not at all.
I bought a mag-base dial indicator cheap on ebay, and would recommend having one of these to periodically check your blades.
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