jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Nov 26, 2014 9:26:27 GMT -5
i have a tumbler that has a 1/8 HP 1075 RPM air over motor that rolls 40 pounds. Uses very little electricity. Has been running for years. With no air over, fan duty can be harsh duty. This one is 1/6 HP. Must buy external capacitor for $2.99. Can cut shafts shorter. Sweet buy for 10-30 pound tumbler. Should roll 30 pounds effortlessly. And only 1075 RPM so pulley reduction easier. New Nice fat little motor w/gobs of torque. www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/Olmo/1-6-HP-115-VAC-1075-RPM-3-SPEED-MOTOR-10-1663.axd
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quartz
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breakin' rocks in the hot sun
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Post by quartz on Nov 26, 2014 15:06:21 GMT -5
Sounds like a deal, I have a 1/6hp on the frame that I ran the 107# average weight propane barrel trial on. I ran it very full so as to reduce humping strain, and it worked well.
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jamesp
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Member since October 2012
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Post by jamesp on Nov 26, 2014 17:50:10 GMT -5
Sounds like a deal, I have a 1/6hp on the frame that I ran the 107# average weight propane barrel trial on. I ran it very full so as to reduce humping strain, and it worked well. Fan motors are tough little bugars and often have the lower 1075 RPM. Often siting on hot roof tops for many years in the weather blowing real hot air. So 1/6 HP turned 107#, wow. If you run 5/8 full at high speed it works the motor maximus. suppose you could run other barrels on that frame.
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quartz
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breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,352
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Post by quartz on Nov 26, 2014 23:25:42 GMT -5
I built that frame to accommodate both the propane and the helium cylinders for the roughing trial. It will run every barrel [1 3/4 to 5 gallon] we have except the little 1qt. one, versatility is good. I ran both cylinders 80-90% full so as to maximize output and reduce rolling strain. I'll slow it some more next year in an effort to reduce breakage. If I run it thru winter I'll make too much of a mud hole out back.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Nov 27, 2014 3:59:17 GMT -5
I built that frame to accommodate both the propane and the helium cylinders for the roughing trial. It will run every barrel [1 3/4 to 5 gallon] we have except the little 1qt. one, versatility is good. I ran both cylinders 80-90% full so as to maximize output and reduce rolling strain. I'll slow it some more next year in an effort to reduce breakage. If I run it thru winter I'll make too much of a mud hole out back. Not a bad idea to run lower HP, had a 1/2 on the big frame, motor bearing went out so went to a 1/3. No problems. I imagine the large diameter barrels can run slower and fuller and still get the job done.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2014 8:58:05 GMT -5
Not sure how it can be a 1075 rpm then say three speed. I don't see why you couldn't run two of them in tandem and have a one quarter horse especially with all the extra shaft. Two equal pulleys with belt on one end then a drive pulley on one of them on the other end. Might only need one capacitor too if the load is not too heavy.
I am thinking about buying one for cotton or felt wheels. Those wheels take very little pressure to work and the speed is better than the 1750 for that purpose because when I use the higher speed it throws a lot of stuff in my face. I may buy two because they are small and two of them side by side still wouldn't take up much room. Very versatile.
Thanks for the heads up Jimbo Jim
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Nov 27, 2014 12:37:25 GMT -5
Not sure how it can be a 1075 rpm then say three speed. I don't see why you couldn't run two of them in tandem and have a one quarter horse especially with all the extra shaft. Two equal pulleys with belt on one end then a drive pulley on one of them on the other end. Might only need one capacitor too if the load is not too heavy. I am thinking about buying one for cotton or felt wheels. Those wheels take very little pressure to work and the speed is better than the 1750 for that purpose because when I use the higher speed it throws a lot of stuff in my face. I may buy two because they are small and two of them side by side still wouldn't take up much room. Very versatile. Thanks for the heads up Jimbo Jim I am not sure how they do the 3 speeds Jim. I know that modern A/C equipment saves money by only running the fan as fast as necessary. It seems I have seen those motors at the junkyard with 7 or 8 wires. I suspect they are using relays to switch to the different wires. Guessing they are connected to 3 points along the windings. That is the bulletproof and reliable low power consumption way. Verses frequency/voltage manipulation. You might could simply do it with a 4 position switch, speed 1,2,3 and off. That would be cat's meow. Similar fan motors common in 1/4 HP in roof top units. Most are 208/220 VAC though. This one at 110 VAC a real bonus. A 1075 1/6 HP has more torque than a 1725 1/6 HP in about all cases. torque good for buffing. Those motors are often cheap because they are odd configured, but buying them new is hard on wallet. They are well made for outside duty. Open cage not so good for grit, but great for cooling.
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Post by Rockoonz on Nov 27, 2014 14:01:00 GMT -5
jamesp maybe I have my terminology wrong but don't you have to use a fan blade to cool an "air over" style motor?
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jamesp
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Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,562
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Post by jamesp on Nov 27, 2014 18:02:09 GMT -5
jamesp maybe I have my terminology wrong but don't you have to use a fan blade to cool an "air over" style motor? if you see the hot air that blows out of a large roof top a/c or even worse a heat pump down in the south you would be amazed. Heat pumps send out some real hot air, using these fans to purge the hot air. Yes, they are designed for air over at fan loads, but a tumbler can be much less of a load. Easiest way to burn up an electric motor is making it drive a fan w/a dirty filter restricting air or a bad speed ratio. They are normally over designed motors, for dirty filters, blocked screens, etc and do fine in still air if not over loaded.
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