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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2015 19:38:45 GMT -5
With fossilman Mike's thread in mind: How does one know when it's "time to clean/change the oil"?? I know a commercial cutter that cleans his oil every 30 cuts. But he is cutting huge pet wood logs with a 0.257" thick blade. He does have 25 gallon sump. Still, how do you know when?
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 17, 2015 20:48:08 GMT -5
When the blade is pumping a lot of muck thru the cut it is time to correct. When bottom of the saw blade is sitting in muck it's an issue. It should make you have to dress the blade more often or simply cut slower or with a strain. I cut a 1.5 inch angle iron and put it into the belly of the saw about center, blade to left, and scoop muck out of the blade side and put it to the right side. Like a poor man's sump. The muck continues to displace saw oil and settle on the right side with the help of operating vibration and gravity. So the blade stays in cleaner oil on the left. This works better with kerosene because the particles settle out of it faster than any other saw oil i have ever used. It stinks, and a bit unhealthy, but petrol base lubricants are hard to beat. I use rubber gloves and saw is outside under shed.
I wait till the saw has been sitting a while and then do the muck transfer.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2015 20:57:33 GMT -5
The oil does not wear out. Just scoop the crud off the bottom and add more oil.
Remember when it was recommended that you change your oil every 3000 miles? I wonder who was behind that. The auto manufacturers (the people that really should know) say 7000 miles and I have not looked at a new car book for a long time so it may be more now.
If there is a little bit of break down it will be in the sludge that you dig out. Let the saw sit for a while to let the sludge all settle out and the oil on top is exactly the same as what is in the bottle you are going to pour into the saw. Just make sure that you dig out the sludge before it builds up around the blade and gets picked up.
Try this for a while and see if there is any change in the saws performance. It might be a different deal if you are running the saw 24-7 and the sludge does not get a chance to settle out but I doubt it. In my saw the sludge settles away from the blade and there is always good oil under the blade. As an experiment I let the sludge build until there was mostly sludge and very little oil and the only difference I could see was the temp going up (which is not good)
There I go 47 cents worth. 3 cents more to make it even. I know someone on another forum that has been cutting a LOT of jade for a LONG time and has never done more than scoop and add. Jim
Now I am going to get slapped with the excessive blade wear attitude and I think it is a bunch of bunk. The sludge isn't going to wear on the blade because the diamonds have already shown that they are tougher than the rock.
Whew, 59 cents now.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 17, 2015 21:43:34 GMT -5
i'm w/ @wampidy the sniper w/the Mo hair do. If you many really settle the particles out your oil you can vibrate the oil with one of these placed against the bottom of the belly or more professionally a small pneumatic vibrator
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2015 22:43:35 GMT -5
The first one is my kind of rig. Jim
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 18, 2015 5:13:36 GMT -5
The first one is my kind of rig. Jim Had to post that sander rig. I hate to say it, but I have a 3600 RPM 8 inch grinder on a steel post cast in the foundation about 3 feet from the rock saw. It vibrates if I don't keep the wheels dressed. I welded up a jam that goes from the grinder to the saw. It vibrates the whole saw. Leave the grinder running for an hour with the jam in place and the rock dust in the oil settles so hard it is like a rubber mat. Saw oil goes clear. Initial test angle iron sump divider, remove sediment from left and dump to the right. Keeps oil displaced, clean oil on left, dirty on right. Transfer mess stays in confines of saw.
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Fossilman
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Post by Fossilman on Jan 18, 2015 10:38:02 GMT -5
I know it might not matter,but I now wash all my rocks with the pressure washer to remove all dirt and etc,before cutting,especially thundereggs... Helps the life of the cutting oil too...... The muck in my mine was so bad,that I cut it out of the sump like brownies,wasn't much oil for anything... I'm kind of a freak when it comes to my toys,so will not do that again,no matter what any guide pamplet or person says..... I mean no disrespect to anyone either..Thumbs up
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2015 12:03:33 GMT -5
I know it might not matter,but I now wash all my rocks with the pressure washer to remove all dirt and etc,before cutting,especially thundereggs... Helps the life of the cutting oil too...... The muck in my mine was so bad,that I cut it out of the sump like brownies,wasn't much oil for anything... I'm kind of a freak when it comes to my toys,so will not do that again,no matter what any guide pamplet or person says..... I mean no disrespect to anyone either..Thumbs up Holly Molly fossilman, I didn't say don't clean it out. hahaha I scoop the gunk out on a regular basis, I just don't go to the trouble of cleaning it all out then have it a total mess after a couple of cuts. I don't think anyone could ever accuse you of disrespect. We know you to well for that. Jim
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Post by roy on Jan 18, 2015 13:09:44 GMT -5
just had to clean out the 24" it was having a tough time cutting the fluid in there gets kinda sticky and small pieces get run threw the cut not the best thing for the side wall of your blade
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Post by Rockoonz on Jan 18, 2015 22:25:34 GMT -5
My main workhorse 14 inch HP saw can turn the oil to pudding over a weekend. The blade is about 3/4" from the bottom of the sump so it only takes a couple gallons of oil. As soon as I wear out the current blade I have a 12" 301 ready to replace it, with more oil it will go a lot longer between changes. I am going to have to try your vibe idea jamesp but I will probably just do it to enhance my current change regimen. When change time comes I usually allow a little time for the oil to settle, then open the drain with bucket #1, the oil bucket. I use a floor jack to tip the saw and drain the less sludgified oil. Then I change to sludge bucket #2 and use putty knives to deal with the thicker nasty stuff. After that I shut the drain and pour as much as I can of the mostly clean oil from bucket #1 into the saw and the rest into one of the paper bag in a bucket saw snot reclaimers. I use reclaimed and/or new oil to top the saw back off and I'm good to go. Nasty thick sludge goes into a different reclaimer (I have 4) Saw snot reclaimer system... I try to put no more than 2-3 gallons of pudding into the bag, filters out a lot faster. I want to make a small cabinet against the wall under my patio to put the filter buckets in with the exhaust from our clothes dryer warming it up, should speed it up.
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Post by DirtCleaner on Jan 19, 2015 2:27:39 GMT -5
I do the paper bag trick as well and have recovered lots of good oil. Trouble is that the oil floats above the snot.
So, I believe the oil seeps through the upper portion of the bag and runs down the side then into the clean bucket.
So if vibrating makes the snot go to the bottom much quicker. Then the trick would be to pull the clean oil off the top of your container and put just that stuff in the bag filter.
Get as much as you can that way and then dump in the snot after. That can sit and passively clean itself in the bag after the more productive work has been done.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 19, 2015 7:18:52 GMT -5
I laso have my saw tilted sloping away from the blade so the snot collects in the right side of the saw. Takes more oil to the get the level to the bottom of the blade though. I wish they would put a deep sump in the belly on the right side with a fitted lift tray where it could be accessed easily for removal. Rockoonz mentioned heat, not much separates the snot from the oil better than heat. Even a lamp placed under the saw for a day does well.
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Fossilman
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Post by Fossilman on Jan 19, 2015 14:51:21 GMT -5
I laso have my saw tilted sloping away from the blade so the snot collects in the right side of the saw. Takes more oil to the get the level to the bottom of the blade though. I wish they would put a deep sump in the belly on the right side with a fitted lift tray where it could be accessed easily for removal. Rockoonz mentioned heat, not much separates the snot from the oil better than heat. Even a lamp placed under the saw for a day does well. Well James,time to build one buddy.Thumbs up
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Fossilman
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Post by Fossilman on Jan 19, 2015 14:52:03 GMT -5
I also use the same drain system,with buckets and paper bags,plus burlap..
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 19, 2015 16:36:08 GMT -5
I laso have my saw tilted sloping away from the blade so the snot collects in the right side of the saw. Takes more oil to the get the level to the bottom of the blade though. I wish they would put a deep sump in the belly on the right side with a fitted lift tray where it could be accessed easily for removal. Rockoonz mentioned heat, not much separates the snot from the oil better than heat. Even a lamp placed under the saw for a day does well. Well James,time to build one buddy.Thumbs up If I didn't have to drain it I probably would. Rock snot burning, for 6-8 hours and leaves a fine white gray powder. Has to have paper added to get it to burn, and stirred.
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Post by DirtCleaner on Jan 19, 2015 20:47:25 GMT -5
If I didn't have to drain it I probably would. Rock snot burning, for 6-8 hours and leaves a fine white gray powder. Has to have paper added to get it to burn, and stirred. So,,,is this a basement project?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2015 21:43:59 GMT -5
My acquaintance with the 48" saw uses 24 gallons per cleanout and wished he'd made the saw with 55# requirement. Then it would use a full drum and go longer between cleanouts (6 weeks instead of 3!!) Lot's of good ideas in this thread and only one post that answers the query! jamesp - you made a tumbler, you made a vibe, it's high time for a saw with all problems you have perceived worked out. Please and thank you.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 20, 2015 4:58:39 GMT -5
When the blade is pumping a lot of muck thru the cut it is time to correct. When bottom of the saw blade is sitting in muck it's an issue. Read more: forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/69227/time-change-clean-oil?page=1#ixzz3PM1J34ZmWhatever it takes to keep the blade pick up oil clean is the main consideration. Using nasty kerosene has forced me to process the oil within the saw as much as possible. I had started to build a 30 inch saw, the container only. It was big enough for a 36 inch blade just in case. It has dual sumps, big wheels to roll it around. It was designed to have enough space to process the oil within the saw container. it was a 1/8" welded tool cabinet I got from a junkyard, 6 feet tall, 3 feet wide and 2 feet deep. I may have a photo of that beast some where. I had also considered putting a 28, 18 and 12 inch saw on it, or some combination. 3 saws/one container.... With internal pans for multiple oil levels for the various saw blade heights. Keeping the drives oil free was an issue on the third(middle) saw. A solvent pump in the main belly to fill the trays. Provision for a pneumatic vibrator. Here is a bad picture of it, you can see the sumps right and left on bottom, big castors to roll it around. It is blue.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Jan 20, 2015 5:43:49 GMT -5
If I didn't have to drain it I probably would. Rock snot burning, for 6-8 hours and leaves a fine white gray powder. Has to have paper added to get it to burn, and stirred. So,,,is this a basement project? A little smokey for the basement dirtcleaner. The wood stove is in the basement, and the kerosene laced snot is used for fire starter these days. By soaking sticks in it, they make great fire starters.
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