rl
off to a rocking start
Member since January 2015
Posts: 6 
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Post by rl on Jan 23, 2015 21:37:13 GMT -5
I have an old Lortone or pre lortone 12 inch saw. Tried it out today and have many questions! The first concerns the carriage... it rubs the blade. Actually the angle iron that slides along the rail is in contact with the blade, can't be good. Is there an adjustment on the carriage to move it away from the blade? Or is it the blade and/or the bearing and shaft that needs adjusted? Second, What all needs to be removed to get the blade off and out of the saw? Third, how does the carriage come out of the saw? and finally, the saw carriage drive seems really slow. Normal? The "instructions" available from Lortone leave a bit to be desired. Is their a better source of information/instructions for this saw? Here, perhaps ! ? 
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Post by DirtCleaner on Jan 23, 2015 21:48:59 GMT -5
Does yours look like this? Take the shaft guard off. I found a couple of allen bolts holding mine. loosen, slide the shaft over, tighten.  |
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rl
off to a rocking start
Member since January 2015
Posts: 6
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Post by rl on Jan 23, 2015 22:10:13 GMT -5
It may very well. Its dark out there right now, but I shall, look in the morning... might also explain how to get the blade out. As it is now, I can remove the nut but can't get enough play to get it past the shaft and the rail, moving it back a quarter of an inch might do it. Thank you. How about the speed? Might I have been slowing it down trying the take a bite out of the rail angle iron? !
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Post by Rockoonz on Jan 24, 2015 0:11:55 GMT -5
It will look like that if it's original. The setscrews on the pillow-block bearings are prone to loosening, the tiniest of drops of Loctite low strength thread locker on the setscrew will stop it from vibrating loose. If you can while it's apart and the setscrews are tightened spin and wiggle the arbor shaft from both ends. If there's any noise or play you will want to get new bearings. Also while you're in there you may want to use the Loctite on the setscrews for the pulleys too.
Slow feed is good, should take 5-8 minutes to travel 1 inch.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 24, 2015 7:56:18 GMT -5
There is a good chance that your bearings have two set screws in a locking ring. (mine does) If that is the case you will have to loosen the two set screws then use a punch to knock the lock ring loose. There will be a third hole (no threads) in the lock ring. Angle the punch to one side and whack it. If it does not come loose lean to the opposite side and whack it. You have a fifty/fifty chance of going the right way the first time because the person that last worked on it picked one or the other at random. Probably the best way to start is the hardest way to get at it to whack the punch because the installer went the easiest way to set it and you have to go the opposite way.
Clear as mud right? I am pretty good at causing confusion so if you do not understand how that type of bearing works go to an auto parts store and ask them to show you a lock ring bearing. Like flying an airplane, simple if you know how but confusing if you don't.
Jim
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Post by deb193redux on Jan 24, 2015 9:46:11 GMT -5
the vise base could need to be shifter, if the arbor could be too far right, or the arbor could be off 90-deg with carriage. check alignment. either way loosen bearings and adjust before tighten. if bearings are loud, could be good time to swap out.
you can disassemble carriage from bottom, but make sure you note how to put it all back together.
the rollers under the carriage have screw adjustments, but can get bent. you can straighten and adjust for no play but still smooth carriage movement.
thread fees should turn at 4 rpm. watch the set screw on the collar up front. if thread is turning, clutch (split nut) under vise could be stripped. good to clean threads with brass brush
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 24, 2015 10:10:47 GMT -5
Yes, slow is the norm for this saw but it cuts smooth as butter if it is set up right. Some people that have the 14 inch Lortone swap the drive motor to a 12 inch drive motor to slow it down.
If the split nut is totally stripped you can clamp the two halves together and run the proper size tap through it and have brand new threads. Easy peasy.
You can also get to the bottom of the carriage by lifting the saw up out of the tub on the bottom. The 3/4 inch rods that the carriage runs on were so wore down in my saw I had to turn them 90 degrees so there is smooth/even rod for everything to slide or roll on.
Jim
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rl
off to a rocking start
Member since January 2015
Posts: 6
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Post by rl on Jan 24, 2015 18:40:49 GMT -5
Thank you all for your insight and advice. This larger saw is a new experience for me. Keep those thoughts and advice coming, its all right on. Appreciate the help. Bob
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quartz
Cave Dweller 
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,359
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Post by quartz on Jan 25, 2015 0:00:12 GMT -5
The proper way to tighten a lock ring bearing is to tighten the ring in the direction of shaft rotation. To loosen the ring, after loosening the setscrews, with a drift punch in the blank hole of the ring, tap it in the opposite direction of rotation. Hopefully someone put it together right in the first place.
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rl
off to a rocking start
Member since January 2015
Posts: 6
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Post by rl on Jan 25, 2015 21:07:15 GMT -5
Everything was as you all indicated. Made the adjustments and am good to go. Didn't try to remove the carriage as it was not the problem. OK here is another question.... I have a polisher with 5 grinding stations and one burnisher? polisher on the end, about 10 inches. The skin that is on it was apparently the original. I have a large sheet of pig skin that I want to put on the burnisher. I cut a piece larger than the disc and have been soaking it in water... tried to get it on the disc but seems impossible to get a flat piece the mold itself around the disc and get the wire ring in place to hold it on. Anyone have any ideas how this might be accomplished??? !
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Post by Peruano on Jan 26, 2015 7:52:07 GMT -5
Use a rubber pad under the leather. Maybe you want to contact cement that rubber on so it stays in place while you are positioning the leather. Finally, start with a new strand of soft wire instead of using the old one. However, try to get that wire wrapped as smoothly as possible and trim it well to avoid having a sharp edge on the rim of the buffer that will be a hazard to future operators. Some folks recommend elk skin over other types of leather, but I'm not sure that its important in my amateur hands. Tom
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