jf23
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2014
Posts: 73
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Post by jf23 on Mar 29, 2015 21:27:06 GMT -5
If you've seen one of my other posts, then you know one of the rocks I want to cut, and currently I am just planning out and searching for all of the things that would be needed to build a saw and to see how much it would cost. One thing I want to ask is how much HP or torque would be needed for a 12 to 16" blade? And would using water at the base and a small pump to pump water to where the blade will be going into the rock be enough to cool the blade? Then I will most likely have some questions later that I can't think of now. Thanks for any responces Edit: Also, would a 5/8" arbor like this, www.ebay.com/itm/5-8-Steel-Shaft-Rod-Threaded-5-8-18-left-and-right-12-Long-/121583352792?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4eeebbd8, work good for saws? Or would one closer to 1" be needed?
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Post by deb193redux on Mar 30, 2015 16:14:50 GMT -5
I think 5/8 is OK for the threaded part where the blade goes, but 3/4 or 1" better for 12" or larger. Also, for 12" YOU CAN MAKE DO WITH 1/3hp - better if it is capacitor start. use an online app to get the right pulley sized for correct surface feet per minute for your blade.
usually on anything over 10" water is not enough. oil is used. But I have seen 14" chop saws that use water. blade life will be shorter.
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jf23
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2014
Posts: 73
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Post by jf23 on Mar 30, 2015 19:23:04 GMT -5
Thanks for the info, guess I will go with a 14" blade and 1/2 HP motor, then ill need to see how much a custom arbor shaft would be. Now I need to look more into the blade types to coolant types before I do too much more.
Edit now that Ive looked a few things up, if I looked everything up right, a sintered or sintered/segmented blade should be good enough with water
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Post by pauls on Mar 30, 2015 23:45:20 GMT -5
1/2 HP should be good for that size blade. Sawing is a constant drag on the motor so smaller motors will struggle and get very hot, probably enough to trip the thermal cutout. Check what size hole the saw you are looking at comes with then build your arbor to suit, its probably 5/8 or 3/4. so you should be able to get an arbor that size reasonably easy. I wouldn't use water for that size blade, spend a bit and buy some oil you will save it by having your blade lasting a lot longer. Don't forget to post pictures of your build, its nice to see other peoples ideas being put into practice.
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Post by pauls on Mar 30, 2015 23:50:16 GMT -5
1/2 HP should be good for that size blade. Sawing is a constant drag on the motor so smaller motors will struggle and get very hot, probably enough to trip the thermal cutout. Check what size hole the saw you are looking at comes with then build your arbor to suit, its probably 5/8 or 3/4. so you should be able to get an arbor that size reasonably easy. I wouldn't use water for that size blade, spend a bit and buy some oil you will save it by having your blade lasting a lot longer. Don't forget to post pictures of your build, its nice to see other peoples ideas being put into practice.
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jf23
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2014
Posts: 73
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Post by jf23 on Apr 1, 2015 18:21:59 GMT -5
Thanks for more info, and I think oil will most likely be an upgrade for later. Ill post pictures too once I start building, but it may be in a month or two lol
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jf23
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2014
Posts: 73
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Post by jf23 on May 5, 2015 16:32:50 GMT -5
Onto seeing if any sort of soundproofing would work before I continue planning a design, I've looked up cork panels, particle board, and soundproofing plywood, but would any of those do anything noticeable to lessen the sound of cutting into rock?
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Post by jakesrocks on May 5, 2015 16:41:12 GMT -5
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Post by captbob on May 5, 2015 16:57:46 GMT -5
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jf23
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2014
Posts: 73
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Post by jf23 on May 5, 2015 17:47:24 GMT -5
I think I will go with this for the saw arbor, www.ebay.com/itm/LORTONE-LS12-LS10-TS8-SAW-ARBOR-FACTORY-NEW-/191571046589?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c9a8630bd. And that kit would make it easy, but would be a bit over budget lol. Currently my plan for material is 2x4s and plywood, and one other thing I want to do with it is have different lids on top so I can change it to one of those grit wheels or polishing wheels. Someone gave me a used 2"x8" diameter 220 grit wheel when in Wisconsin a long time ago, so would be cool to get some new belts for it and put that to use. Then on the feed, I think I will go with 2 sideways square rods for some wheels to go on, then figure something out with vise clamps, but still need to think all of that out.
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Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,711
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Post by Fossilman on May 5, 2015 20:19:04 GMT -5
Yes,I would say a 1/2 motor is fine-plus use oil on bigger blades,instead of water.............
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jf23
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2014
Posts: 73
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Post by jf23 on May 5, 2015 20:49:53 GMT -5
Yep, learned water vs water soluble coolant about a week ago. Guess that could of gone wrong lol. And to cool it, about how much of the blade should be in the coolant?
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Post by Rockoonz on May 5, 2015 22:47:51 GMT -5
How far I run coolant up the blade depends on how much of it stays down in the sump during cutting, usually no more than 1/4 inch with the saw off. Also on the topic of oil, if you're designing a saw don't think you're doing yourself a favor by keeping the coolant volume to a minimum, it puts the saw blades at risk and you have to do oil changes more frequently when it turns into pudding after just a few cuts. The arbor you are looking at is a bit on the short side, by the time you leave enough sticking out of your saw box for a drive pulley you will have your bearings very close to each other and a small slab shelf, if you plan to cut geodes in half to the capacity of a 14 inch blade that could be a major problem. When you buy pillow blocks buy good Sealmasters, nothing else. I saved a few bucks on my 14" Highland Park and the Chinese bearings are already getting noisy a little over a year later. Ebay has good prices sometimes, I bought a few sets for the future. For coolant here's the list. If you stay with one of these you will do well... barrancadiamond.com/pdf/tec/bd_slab_saw_coolants.pdf
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Post by Rockoonz on May 5, 2015 22:56:28 GMT -5
Liberal use of shaft collars for purposes a shaft collar is not suitable for, not good.
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jf23
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2014
Posts: 73
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Post by jf23 on May 6, 2015 0:06:29 GMT -5
Thanks, Ill add the link to favorites, and would 15-20 gallons be good or would that not be enough? And with how I have it planned out in my head currently, there should be about 1 11/16" removed from the saw radius to use, and then you reminded me of the pulley, so I need to see what size pulleys there are
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Post by Rockoonz on May 7, 2015 0:08:43 GMT -5
For a 14 inch saw 3-5 gallons would be fine so if you have 10 gallons on hand there's enough to do an oil change and keep it going while filtering out the dirty oil. The barranca site also has blade rpm info and tables to calculate the size pulleys you will need.
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jf23
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2014
Posts: 73
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Post by jf23 on May 7, 2015 22:30:07 GMT -5
Ok, thanks
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jf23
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2014
Posts: 73
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Post by jf23 on May 24, 2015 20:26:02 GMT -5
Edit: Never mind, I think Ive figured something else out
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jf23
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2014
Posts: 73
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Post by jf23 on May 31, 2015 14:21:43 GMT -5
I can't seem to find this, Id guess it would be inner diameter, but to find v belt pulley ratios would I need to go off the inner or outer diameter of a pulley? And would a 4L and/or a 3L belt work for a saw?
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quartz
Cave Dweller
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,352
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Post by quartz on May 31, 2015 23:52:06 GMT -5
4L belt will work fine, 3L likely overloaded. Measure outer diameter of pulleys.
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