Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,910
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Post by Tommy on May 8, 2015 16:57:02 GMT -5
The amounts I gave came straight off of the Thumlers instruction sheet that came with my tumbler. I am also at a loss as to how much they recommend seeing as how I use roughly 50% and it does fine. I have yet to try cutting back more as I don't run the vibe often. Is it possible that they are vested in the sales of grit? That usually explains such things. Thanks again all - it's been running since 5pm yesterday. I filled it up high and followed your water instructions to a tee - spritzed it this morning at 5am before work - and my wife spritzed it again at 12 noon. I'll pull it all out tonight or early tomorrow and switch to 500 grit.
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SirRoxalot
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since October 2003
Posts: 790
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Post by SirRoxalot on May 13, 2015 15:05:12 GMT -5
Flats take twice the time in each stage. 4 days 220, 4 in 500, and a week to polish. I use about 3 tablespoons of grit per load in my UV-10. Run good stuff with the flats, because you can only put in so many flats per load, under half. Soap, borax, and Metamucil help a bit but it's always finicky. Don't ignore the thing or it'll turn to solid mud and you'll burn your motor out, it's easy to do.
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mikethecabaddict
off to a rocking start
So many slabs to cab, so little time
Member since May 2015
Posts: 22
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Post by mikethecabaddict on May 14, 2015 13:54:52 GMT -5
howdy there, fairly new to all this myself but this thread has been very helpful answering a good deal of my questions but if yall dont mind i had a couple questions to add to this. with the media, for stones (specifically preformed cabochons) is it better to use ceramic media or plastic media? ive heard ceramic is more for metal finishing but almost all of you mention you use it, im curious if its better or just handy or inexpensive. also how often does the media need to be replaced? for the grit which is better alluminum oxide or silicone based grit? or does it differ based on stone type? what is the best type of polish for most stones? and for the equipment itself, how good/durable are the raytech tumblers? im currently looking at their small tumble vibe-5 which judging by the weight of my finished cabs will hold more then i can preform in a day. and is it safe to run the vibratory tumblers constantly aside from when switching grits? i apologize if some of these questions seem more common sense, i havnt really tumbled anything since i was 5 years old and never with a vibratory so im completely lost when it comes to figuing all this out. thanks, mike
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minerken
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2013
Posts: 466
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Post by minerken on May 14, 2015 15:32:46 GMT -5
I tumble a lot of my cabs I don't know if you plan on leaving flat tops or doming them. Personally I think starting with 120/220 grit will round the corners off too much unless you are just going to drill them for beads, maybe grove wrap, or pocket stones. I take mine from 80 thru 600 diamond on the wheels before I start the polish/pre-polish stages. It is true that vibes don't alter the shape much but I think the large grits will do it just enough that they will be hard for wire wrapping ore silversmithing the settings. I use SIC all the way until polish where I use Tin oxide, but I'm checking into the ALO stuff because people here get terrific results from them.
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on May 14, 2015 15:55:47 GMT -5
I tumble a lot of my cabs I don't know if you plan on leaving flat tops or doming them. Personally I think starting with 120/220 grit will round the corners off too much unless you are just going to drill them for beads, maybe grove wrap, or pocket stones. rounding of corners can be a problem. I posted my solution to that problem with photos earlier in the thread. forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/68846/tumbled-cab-girdle-cleanup Chuck
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minerken
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2013
Posts: 466
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Post by minerken on May 14, 2015 19:45:50 GMT -5
Drummond Island Rocks, wow I guess you do have a solution beautiful job on that cab. I have done a little wire wrapping and know where you are coming from and I know that smithies like to have a slightly angled girdle so what I try to do is please them both. I actually roll the top edge slighty but keep the girdle vertical hoping that I can make a happy medium for both. I suppose that all that happens is they both wind up hating me lol..
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Post by gingerkid on May 15, 2015 10:00:06 GMT -5
...and for the equipment itself, how good/durable are the raytech tumblers? im currently looking at their small tumble vibe-5 which judging by the weight of my finished cabs will hold more then i can preform in a day. and is it safe to run the vibratory tumblers constantly aside from when switching grits? mike Hi, mikethecabaddict, there are a few members that have the Raytech TV-5, and I hope they'll chime in with their methods. I have one and purchased the kit from amateurgeologist.com. The kit comes with an extra bowl and tumbling grit and polish. From the website: SC (100/1200), SC (700F), Iolox 50, Raybrite TL (GS-H2 Stone Finish Kit for hard rocks and minerals). With the TV-5, it is recommended to use Raytech's Ceramilite media instead of ceramic media. They also sell it on Amateur Geologist's website. I've noticed that the inside of my TV-5 bowls are scratched, which is probably caused by operator error, but if you purchase one, please keep watch on your bowls. I don't have that much material to keep the TV-5 running continuously, and I hope someone can answer your question.
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Post by johnjsgems on May 15, 2015 13:45:33 GMT -5
Hope to shout that is a lot of grit. Maybe for a rotary. 10 lb. Gy-Roc uses 1 tablespoon. We used to use tumbled broken slabs for wire wrap classes. Rotary tumbled. They come out with rounded edges rather than the crisp edges pictured. They would take much longer than the vibe tumbled though. Vibes need about 70% mixed media for flats. As long as your tumbler can handle the weight rock pieces would be fine. In fact the Gy-Roc manufacturer recommends pea gravel for filler on his tumblers and says ceramics are too light. Lighter duty tumblers may last longer with the lighter ceramics.
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