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Post by glennz01 on May 14, 2015 0:49:38 GMT -5
Well on nelson 14/16, the last thing I need to do before I scrub it clean is remove the nut on the arbor which is rusted in. I have tried almost all other methods to get it off.
It is soaked in some sort of oil so i'm thinking that heat is not a good idea.
Anyone else have any ideas? Also does anyone know if this uses a nut that is easily replicable or if its special?
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Post by orrum on May 14, 2015 6:20:46 GMT -5
PBblaster over several days. Aldo tap it vigorously several times a day. After a few days try to tighten it till by taping wrench with hammer, tsp now not drive railtoad spikes and if it moves a little and then the reverse and try to loosen by taping wrench. This is like a hillbilly hammer wrench. If it moves a little PB BLAST it and tap some more. It will move eventually. Make sure you know which way the threads run. Hope that helps, it's how I broke the arbor and nut loose on my old Frantom saw.
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Post by pauls on May 15, 2015 16:28:19 GMT -5
As Orrum said, "make sure you know which way the thread runs", to elaborate a bit, many shafts to anchor grinding wheels saw blades and others have an ordinary thread on one end, called a right hand thread, and a left hand thread on the other end. Left hand threads tighten if you try to take the nut off the ordinary way, you need to take them off by winding the spanner in the opposite direction. If you can see a bit of the thread you can see which way it is. The threads on the ends of shafts always run in the direction that will automagically tighten the nut if anything slips, so check the direction of rotation and undo by rotating your spanner in the same direction that the shaft normally spins.
Paul
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Post by broseph82 on May 15, 2015 16:38:04 GMT -5
Like orrum said PB Blaster works wonders. It doesn't work instantly but leaving it on for a few days works. I had an arbor shaft that probably hadn't been cleaned in 20yrs or more and I couldn't get nuts nor even the wheels off. Soaked everything in it for 3 days and it all slid off like nothing was even wrong.
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Post by Peruano on May 15, 2015 18:01:51 GMT -5
If you want a good general rule for left hand versus right hand threads its this one for me. If the nut is on the right side of the machine, its right hand threads (loosen counterclockwise). If the nut is on the left side of the machine, its a left hand thread (its not right - its wrong) - (so loosen clockwise). Yes you can examine visually but eyes can be deceiving.
Think about it - the shaft is turning toward you and the right end will try to tighten itself
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Post by Peruano on May 15, 2015 18:03:40 GMT -5
If you want a good general rule for left hand versus right hand threads its this one for me. If the nut is on the right side of the machine, its right hand threads (loosen counterclockwise). If the nut is on the left side of the machine, its a left hand thread (its not right - its wrong) - (so loosen clockwise). Yes you can examine visually but eyes can be deceiving.
Think about it - the shaft is turning toward you and the right end will try to tighten itself (its a safety issue). If the left sided nut was not the opposite thread pattern it would tend to loosen itself with the shaft turning toward you (hence a safety issue if not a left handed thread). Right side is right - left side is wrong. Don't you forget it. Tom
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Post by jakesrocks on May 15, 2015 18:07:28 GMT -5
Is this a saw arbor ? If so, the nut comes off in the same direction that the blade turns when the saw is running.
If PB Blaster doesn't work, try oil of wintergreen. Best penetrating oil that nature ever produced. It'll make your saw smell good too. Just don't get it in your eyes. Like putting hot coals in your eyes.
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Post by glennz01 on May 16, 2015 4:27:37 GMT -5
As Orrum said, "make sure you know which way the thread runs", to elaborate a bit, many shafts to anchor grinding wheels saw blades and others have an ordinary thread on one end, called a right hand thread, and a left hand thread on the other end. Left hand threads tighten if you try to take the nut off the ordinary way, you need to take them off by winding the spanner in the opposite direction. If you can see a bit of the thread you can see which way it is. The threads on the ends of shafts always run in the direction that will automagically tighten the nut if anything slips, so check the direction of rotation and undo by rotating your spanner in the same direction that the shaft normally spins. Paul yep I checked that and tried putting a wrench on the nut and the flywheel end... doesn't want to move.... I got it soaking in wd40 again so i'll see. Thanks for your input everyone... if I can't get it off on monday i'll buy some pb blaster and try
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Roger
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2013
Posts: 1,487
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Post by Roger on May 16, 2015 10:05:05 GMT -5
If you have access to one, an impact drill will typically take a rusty nut right off. Before I bought my own 20v cordless, I would take the shaft to a local auto-repair shop and tip a guy $5.00 to take them off for me.
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