|
Post by stardiamond on May 30, 2015 14:41:47 GMT -5
Laguna lace: 1. I think I wrecked my blade. Multiple mishaps with slipping rocks. I straightened it out with a hammer, but I started running into other problems. I glued a bunch of rough to 2x4 using wood glue and everything worked great. The last 3 attempts have been failures. Any recommendations for glue? 2. The good news is that I cut almost everything rough that I wanted to cut that I had accumulated over the years. 3. I'm thinking that I really don't need a 16" blade and will replace with a 14". The 16 eats too much material and I probably could have done most of what I wanted with a 12" saw. Any recommendations for a blade? 4. I still have some of the laguna lace I got on ebay, but I cut a lot already and the pattern on all of it that I would cab is basically the same. I thought I hit the mother lode but there are a bunch of fractures; healed and unhealed to work around making it not as desirable. Back to cabbing.
|
|
|
Post by Drummond Island Rocks on May 30, 2015 15:01:39 GMT -5
MK301 is my hands down favorite blade for my 14". After two years my cuts still come off looking like that were sanded with 600 grit and zero blade marks. I use wood glue and 2x4's on every end cut and have never had a failure. I make sure the end cut is 100 percent clean and free of oil and use a lot of glue. The shortest time I will wait is 4 days but prefer the glue to dry one week do to how much glue I use. these show how nice the slab surface is when cut with a 301 blade. These were after already cutting hundreds of slabs. Chuck
|
|
|
Post by stardiamond on May 30, 2015 15:18:04 GMT -5
The 2x4 was something that had been lying around the yard for years. It was dry and the later cuts were from the rattier part. There was no oil on the wood. I think the problem was that the glue hadn't dried long enough, 2 or 3 days. I might have waited longer on the earlier cuts by not getting around to cutting.
Thanks for the advice.
I'll straighten out the blade again and reglue the rock and wait a week. I want to solve the rock coming loose issues before installing a new blade.
I really don't like the vise design on the Covington and the cross feed ends a couple cuts away from the vise.
|
|
Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,709
|
Post by Fossilman on May 30, 2015 15:25:05 GMT -5
I have a MK blade too,It's a 14".... Have cut 100's of rough with it,still cuts like a dream! I use Elmers wood glue,leave it set for a week! I also soak all my slabs that I put on the wood,usually in Dawn dish soap for a few days,than a good rinse with fresh water....Than glue them....
|
|
|
Post by stephan on Jun 6, 2015 23:56:26 GMT -5
Elmer's? Huh. At our club's shop they only cut 'em if they're glued down with Gorilla Glue. That holds like no tomorrow, and sets up overnight.
|
|
QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
|
Post by QuailRiver on Jun 7, 2015 0:45:21 GMT -5
If I have a good flat surface to glue to I use Elmer's wood glue, the yellow not the brown, and not the exterior type. I let it cure for two or three days. Elmer's isn't good for filling gaps between rocks and the wood so if I have a rough surface with gaps I use 30 minute epoxy that I get at the hobby store. This type www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=670 . Even though it sets up in about thirty minutes I still let it cure overnight before putting in the saw. And as Chuck posted make sure the rock is absolutely clean. I wipe mine down with lacquer thinner and a clean terrycloth rag before I glue them. Also the wood surface must be clean and absolutely dry. So far I can't remember ever having a rock come loose from a board with either of these glues...knock on wood...if I can find any in reach. I might have to settle for wood fiber and glue pressboard with a photo grained paper veneer [sigh]. Larry C.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Jun 7, 2015 7:56:40 GMT -5
There is a lot at play that affects the pressure against the rock and the ability of the glue to hold tight. Things related to saw are: speed of blade, quality of blade, speed of feed, angle of feed (must be parallel), amount of lubricant Things related to rock are: hardness, shape, size (degree of contact with blade), Things related to stub and glue: type of glue, duration of setup, amount of glue, thickness and area in contact with rock, temperature when worked, type of stub, cleanliness of rock, stub, and porosity of each. Most of this is obvious but each is important. I'll add a few subtle aspects. I reuse wooden stubs (I really like 2x3s instead of larger, but with my 12 in saw, I cut smaller rocks than some of you. I always saw off the ends when reusing them to get a fresh (nonoiled surface). I only use stubs that have dried 24 hours, more seems unnecessary unless its cold. Never cut on glued specimens at temps near or below 40 degrees, the glue releases easier. If its a monster rock cut on the approach that involves the least surface area against the blade (easier on saw, and less pressure on rock/stub. I use the least weatherproof wood glues (Elmers or el cheapo no diff) and only resort to Gorilla Glue (the foaming stuff) for special/read odd shaped or irregular surfaced rocks. Note the foaming stuff calls for one surface to be wet. I'm quite generous with my glue (it usually runs down the stub when the rock is placed on top like a candle drips). That thick pad of glue helps account for surface irregularities, and makes it easier to separate the rock after I'm done. Some folks seem to be stingy with glue as if they were doing fine wood working. Ok I'll stop there and hope that I've mentioned something of potential interest. Tom
|
|
Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,709
|
Post by Fossilman on Jun 7, 2015 10:18:11 GMT -5
Elmer's? Huh. At our club's shop they only cut 'em if they're glued down with Gorilla Glue. That holds like no tomorrow, and sets up overnight. I cut for myself and I'm never in a hurry for anything-I have one gear anymore and it's "Slow" LOL - So as long as this Elmer's work for me(no matter the time cure on it),I will use it.. I soak all the sticks in a five gallon bucket of water,for the slabs to fall off(after the cuts)-sometimes it takes a couple weeks for this process to happen-so that tells me the glue is working great....Thumbs up I tried Gorilla glue once on rocks and a few times with my wood projects-I will never use that product again!!! My opinion of course!! LOL
|
|