jobafunky
starting to shine!
Member since March 2007
Posts: 30
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Post by jobafunky on Aug 25, 2015 8:44:23 GMT -5
I'm trying to pick up a flex shaft tool that I can use for my jewelry work, but also use for carving/cleaning up tumbled stones. I've worked with the SR series before and enjoyed it's ability to go in reverse, but I think that I need to let that go in order to get the extra torque with the Tx series. Any thoughts? This is the one in particular I was looking at: FOREDOM**Edit** I was also hoping to some day use a hammer tip for engraving. |
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Don
Cave Dweller 
He wants you too, Malachi.
Member since December 2009
Posts: 2,616
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Post by Don on Aug 25, 2015 9:41:06 GMT -5
SR for jewelry, TX for rock work. I use the TX for both.
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jobafunky
starting to shine!
Member since March 2007
Posts: 30
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Post by jobafunky on Aug 25, 2015 10:45:30 GMT -5
Wow! Checked out your web store. You make some really nice stuff. What kind of bit do you use for your stonework?
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Don
Cave Dweller
He wants you too, Malachi.
Member since December 2009
Posts: 2,616
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Post by Don on Aug 25, 2015 11:02:56 GMT -5
For most of the grinding work I use cheap plated burs from china. I suppose I should upgrade to fancy expensive sintered dental burs, but eehhhhhhhh..... www.riogrande.com/Product/Diamond-Bur-Set/346063?Pos=1I use diamond paste compounds with brushes and hardwood "burs" for polishing stones, and felt disks on a mandrel with TO or oxide of choice for final polishing. I do a lot of jewelry fabrication cleanup work with my TX as well, use a lot of silicone disks, brass brushes, felt disks with tripoli, etc for cleaning and polishing up all the tight spots in a jewelry setting. Haven't ever really thought to myself "gee I wish I could go in reverse" while using it. |
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diamondust
off to a rocking start
Member since January 2014
Posts: 20 
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Post by diamondust on Aug 26, 2015 22:29:43 GMT -5
Hi, I have been carving a few years and started with a cheap Foredom knock off, and it worked Ok. I have now moved to the Foredom Brushless Micro motor. It will run at 50K rpm for small diameter diamond burs. I use it at about 35k most of the time. I found that it carves much faster than a flex shaft and has a lot less vibration. It is pricy, but if you plan on doing a lot of carving it is worth it.
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diamondust
off to a rocking start
Member since January 2014
Posts: 20
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Post by diamondust on Aug 26, 2015 22:38:08 GMT -5
Oh, also I use inexpensive sintered burs from china for my rough out work and plated burs for finer finish work. I polish with diamond paste on wooden buffs that I make, along with oxide polishes on felt buffs. I use chrome oxide for Jade and Pro polish for jasper and agate.
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gemfeller
Cave Dweller
Member since June 2011
Posts: 4,059
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Post by gemfeller on Aug 27, 2015 0:06:57 GMT -5
Interesting post DD. Do you get less "rippling" with the micro motor? Any chance you'd be willing to share your source for Chinese sintered burs?
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jobafunky
starting to shine!
Member since March 2007
Posts: 30
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Post by jobafunky on Aug 27, 2015 16:10:03 GMT -5
DD could you maybe post a pic of what your wood burs look like please? I'm curious.
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Don
Cave Dweller
He wants you too, Malachi.
Member since December 2009
Posts: 2,616
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Post by Don on Aug 27, 2015 16:20:26 GMT -5
DD could you maybe post a pic of what your wood burs look like please? I'm curious. I don't know what DD's look like but mine are just 1/8" hard wood dowel cut down to about 1.5" and shaped to either a flame or round point depending on what I need. |
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diamondust
off to a rocking start
Member since January 2014
Posts: 20
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Post by diamondust on Aug 27, 2015 19:40:21 GMT -5
Ok, I have been asked several questions, So I will attempt to answer them . First, "Rippling" I am assuming you are talking about a wavy surface on the carving? After I get my carving to the basic shape with Coarse diamond burs, I guide coat the carving ( usually with a sharpie marker) then dress the entire surface with a diamond file. if you have never used a guide coat , it shows you your highs and lows(Rippling) the dark sharpie stays in the low spots when you first start filing, you continue to work the surface until all of the guide coat is gone. then I further smooth the surface with Silicon carbide stones of various grits. ( you can get them at: jadecarver.com). Next question, The Sintered burs from China. Go to "AliExpress" and search: Professional sintered diamond burs, You will find all of the burs you could ever want. And lastly , the wooden "Buffs". I use the left over shafts from felt buffs, I drill a hole in a dowel shaped piece of wood( could be a piece of a dopping stick or some hard wood), glue it on the used shaft with super glue and when hardened, chuck it in your dremel, turn it on to 5k-10k rpm and sand it to shape with course sand paper then smooth with 80 grit. there you have it. each one should be grit specific, so mark them. Now, How the heck do you post a photo? I have tried before, and it always says too large of file? I have a photo of a few of my wooden buffs and one of a few of my carvings. s908.photobucket.com/user/Jadecarver7/library/ |
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gemfeller
Cave Dweller
Member since June 2011
Posts: 4,059
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Post by gemfeller on Aug 27, 2015 20:07:55 GMT -5
Hi, Yes, that's what I mean by "rippling." Thanks for your step-by-step explanation. I already searched for sintered burs and as you say there are many sources. Thanks for all that.
You can't upload images directly to the forum. You have to host them on a site like Photobucket and paste a link in your forum post. When you upload an image to Photobucket (free hosting) simply click on it and a list of links should appear. Choose the appropriate one (I always use the last one in the list) and you should be in business.
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Post by Rockoonz on Aug 27, 2015 22:24:47 GMT -5
Ok, I have been asked several questions, So I will attempt to answer them . First, "Rippling" I am assuming you are talking about a wavy surface on the carving? After I get my carving to the basic shape with Coarse diamond burs, I guide coat the carving ( usually with a sharpie marker) then dress the entire surface with a diamond file. if you have never used a guide coat , it shows you your highs and lows(Rippling) the dark sharpie stays in the low spots when you first start filing, you continue to work the surface until all of the guide coat is gone. then I further smooth the surface with Silicon carbide stones of various grits. ( you can get them at: jadecarver.com). Next question, The Sintered burs from China. Go to "AliExpress" and search: Professional sintered diamond burs, You will find all of the burs you could ever want. And lastly , the wooden "Buffs". I use the left over shafts from felt buffs, I drill a hole in a dowel shaped piece of wood( could be a piece of a dopping stick or some hard wood), glue it on the used shaft with super glue and when hardened, chuck it in your dremel, turn it on to 5k-10k rpm and sand it to shape with course sand paper then smooth with 80 grit. there you have it. each one should be grit specific, so mark them. Now, How the heck do you post a photo? I have tried before, and it always says too large of file? I have a photo of a few of my wooden buffs and one of a few of my carvings. To post a photo... forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/56340/photobucket-visual-tutorial |
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diamondust
off to a rocking start
Member since January 2014
Posts: 20
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Post by diamondust on Aug 27, 2015 23:06:01 GMT -5
Ok, I added a link to a couple of photos to my above post. I guess I did it right?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2015 6:35:10 GMT -5
Great thread. I have only carved soft stone (alabaster) and I am wanting to work on some harder stone like jade and thulite so this will reduce my learning curve as far as the polishing goes. These tips should also help on the angelite abstract carving I started yesterday. diamondust, you are turning out some real nice pieces. Thanks for the info and photos. Jim |
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