Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 22, 2015 7:13:49 GMT -5
Has anyone dressed a blade the "Richardson" way.im a little reluctant to take an angle grinder to my 24" blade.IE.is this done with the blade still in the saw?how is the grinder oriented to the blade?am I grinding until I achieve a flat surface on the blade? Any help(with possible pics or video)would be greatly appreciated Thanks Dave
|
|
Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,711
|
Post by Fossilman on Dec 22, 2015 10:16:03 GMT -5
Never heard of using a grinder on a blade.....I file mine,than tap the top of the blade,doing a full circle with it-than run some Obsisian through the saw a few times..............
|
|
|
Post by johnjsgems on Dec 22, 2015 11:56:40 GMT -5
You could grind the edge flat if you can keep it even. At MK I've seen them using a die grinder to dress the blade edges on bladessent in for warranty testing. The hammer or file works pretty well though.
|
|
|
Post by roy on Dec 22, 2015 13:52:41 GMT -5
i use a old silicon carbide wheel just make a couple cuts and your good to go
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Dec 22, 2015 16:04:12 GMT -5
Thanks Roy,what grit would be the best? Dave
|
|
|
Post by roy on Dec 22, 2015 19:09:27 GMT -5
i use 100 grit wheel that i have taken off old cabbing machines
|
|
mikeinsjc
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2010
Posts: 329
|
Post by mikeinsjc on Dec 22, 2015 20:26:36 GMT -5
arrowheaddave, The guys at Richardsons (Casey?) turned me on to that method, and that is how I dress all my blades. They have at least a dozen saws, and a heck of a lot more cutting experience than anyone I know, so I figured one would be wise to listen to what they say.
I have two 24 HP saws, a 36" Frantom, 18" Covington and a couple smaller ones. I cut a lot of material. The disc they use is a Makita 741423-B, available from Amazon in a 25-pack. As I recall they are about $35/box.
This system is easy, fast, and doesn't require one to remove the blade. You will get the hang of it very quickly. Don't worry about damaging the blade- you will see the thin line of diamond appear as you square off the surface of the blade. I could sharpen ten 24" blades in the time it takes to make one pass through those totally useless white blocks- about 5-10 minutes for a 24" blade. Once you have done this you will never use any other method.
|
|
Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,711
|
Post by Fossilman on Dec 22, 2015 20:37:08 GMT -5
Never hurts to learn new method's............
|
|
snuffy
Cave Dweller
Member since May 2009
Posts: 4,319
|
Post by snuffy on Dec 22, 2015 20:41:59 GMT -5
I was shown by an 86 year old rock shop owner how he dresses his blades.He has a small metal roller,dont remember actual size attached to a metal rod with a metal plate on the end.He places the roller against the blade,puts the hood down and turns the saw on.Then pushes the rod with his hip,exerting pressure and the roller flattens the edge of the blade.Really quick. I have never tried it,but was amazed.
snuffy
|
|
Roger
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2013
Posts: 1,487
|
Post by Roger on Dec 23, 2015 11:54:11 GMT -5
Like roy, I have always dressed with old silicon carbide wheels. 100 & 220 are what I have in abundance and tend to use. They seem to work well. I used the 100 on my thicker, utility cutting blades and the 220 on my thin, detail blades. I do dress them frequently which seems to keep them working well. I will typically make 2-3 cuts through the wheels. The number of cuts is dependent on what rough I have been cutting and whether I think I have been lazy in dressing the blade Personally, I am nervous to try some of the other methods; lightly hammering the blade edge or using an angle grinder requires a "touch and feel" that I am pretty sure I don't have lol. I think those methods would be too easy, for me, to mess up an expensive blade with.
|
|
|
Post by johnjsgems on Dec 23, 2015 12:49:54 GMT -5
Cutting a dressing block, old SC wheel, or fire brick will dress open a blade exposing new diamond and removing anything that glazes over the surface. It won't fix a blade with leading edge rounded off.
|
|
|
Post by mohs on Dec 23, 2015 13:29:16 GMT -5
take this for what it worth I have no experience dressing blades but lot of experience dressing wheels in the saw shop we used star dresser its a hand held device but NOT with the metal blades although we had those to No-- the handled star dresser I used had 2 inch grinding wheel on it really cool ! I could hold the dresser at an angle and with my thumb regulate the speed of the dressing grinding wheel I just know I could efficiently square a blade flat & true using this method I can't find a picture of star dresser only ones with the metal blades but finding one with a grinding wheel is difficult but here is a you tube video of guy using the dresser that I'm talking about grinding wheels are pretty safe that guys been around to long
|
|
|
Post by Rockoonz on Dec 23, 2015 22:49:24 GMT -5
I have always used 60-80 grit aluminum oxide wheels. They tend to round the edges of the blade a lot less than SiC. The angle grinder method is definitely what I would use in a production shop like Richardsons, where keeping the saws cutting is more important than shortening blade life, But I would so it with a dust collector hood to keep the grinder abrasives out of my saw.
|
|
Tom
fully equipped rock polisher
My dad Tom suddenly passed away yesterday, Just wanted his "rock" family to know.
Member since January 2013
Posts: 1,557
|
Post by Tom on Dec 27, 2015 10:04:52 GMT -5
I have just discovered that using fire brick from the inside of an old wood stove works really well. I was using those purchased dressing stones and now think they are totally useless. My 12 inch Lortone was kind of gagging or stalling on hard rocks, and not big ones. I ran the blade twice through a 6 in by 2 in block. The blade cuts like butter and no stall outs. wooo hoooo.
|
|