Enigman
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since December 2013
Posts: 163
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Post by Enigman on Jan 7, 2016 17:37:14 GMT -5
I recently got a tile saw for use in cutting stones; the model shown in the title. It works very well.
However, in the users manual it says to use only continuous rim blades and never use slotted, "turbo" or segmented blades or you will risk bodily injury.
Does anyone know why they would say this? What's wrong with notched or slotted blades? Are they just covering their backsides?
Anyone know anything about this?
Thanks.
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jan 7, 2016 18:01:34 GMT -5
Never used a tile saw myself but I know they run at about 2X the speed of a true lapidary saw so the high RPM would be my guess.
Chuck
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Intheswamp
Cave Dweller
Member since September 2015
Posts: 1,910
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Post by Intheswamp on Jan 7, 2016 19:09:07 GMT -5
Easier for a piece to break and fly off the segmented blade than a piece off of a solid blade?
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Post by Pat on Jan 7, 2016 19:17:38 GMT -5
I'd call them up!
Good question.
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Post by deb193redux on Jan 7, 2016 21:18:42 GMT -5
the segmented ones with big gaps can cut you - not good in a hand fed saw.
if the segment has only a hairline gap, like the 7" mk-225 hotdog, I think it is OK. I use the hotdog a lot.
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Mark K
Cave Dweller
Member since April 2012
Posts: 2,770
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Post by Mark K on Jan 7, 2016 22:16:55 GMT -5
the segmented ones with big gaps can cut you - not good in a hand fed saw. if the segment has only a hairline gap, like the 7" mk-225 hotdog, I think it is OK. I use the hotdog a lot. This is the reason.
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Post by johnjsgems on Jan 8, 2016 11:43:47 GMT -5
Depending on rpm and arbor size, you can use lapidary blades on tile saws.
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Post by pauls on Jan 11, 2016 18:22:49 GMT -5
Its possibly to do with the vibration caused by hand feeding into a segmented blade, it can be uncomfortable to use and can cause the blade to get badly corrugated. Thats much like the corrugated bumps on a gravel or dirt road, it starts with a tiny bit of uneveness and gradually it gets worse and worse until it shakes your bones. It is a real pain to fix when that happens too, you need to get an old grinding wheel and cut into it with the blade feeding very slowly and well supported so you are only grinding off the high spots, if the blade is really bumpy it can take quite a few cuts. Use the bits of grinding wheel you slice off in your rough tumble. This uneveness can happen with unsegmented blades too if you are pushing too hard, no problem with my saw at home but the one at the club gets bumpy very quickly, the last trim saw blade we changed had no diamond left on one side and 3/16 on the other so impossible to fix and dangerous to use, just people who couldn't care less, they do it right while you are watching and as soon as you walk out they are ripping into rocks that should be going in the slab saw, but the slab saw takes too long.
This vibrating/bumpy effect can cause chips to fly off your stone so use safety glasses.
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