|
Post by broseph82 on Jan 27, 2016 10:50:59 GMT -5
So I have a rock rascal model J (6" Vanguard blade) that I use water and kool lube with. I hate that I dont have a cover on it because of the messiness.
Question 1: Has anyone here ever made such a small hood for this and can you post examples and/or pics?
Question 2: Should I switch to oil as a lubricant?
The reason why I ask number 2 is I feel on harder stones the water and lube doesn't keep everything as cool as it should be. I don't always rush and feed it fast, but sometimes I need it cut quicker. My slabs arent the usual 1/4" thick. Mine are around 5/8" thick and sometimes thicker. My last Vanguard blade was great. Cut through everything including agates quickly. I felt it reached an end even after dressing so many times so I switched to a new blade. Well, this new blade seemed to not work as well as the last one, even from the beginning (i think the style was a bit different). I'm having trouble cutting through agates even after making like 10 slabs off the SiC stick/block.
Question 3: Should I just go ahead and also switch to an MK series blade and use with oil?
thanks,
Jimi
|
|
|
Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jan 27, 2016 10:58:02 GMT -5
So I have a rock rascal model J (6" Vanguard blade) that I use water and kool lube with. I hate that I dont have a cover on it because of the messiness. Question 1: Has anyone here ever made such a small hood for this and can you post examples and/or pics? Question 2: Should I switch to oil as a lubricant? The reason why I ask number 2 is I feel on harder stones the water and lube doesn't keep everything as cool as it should be. I don't always rush and feed it fast, but sometimes I need it cut quicker. My slabs arent the usual 1/4" thick. Mine are around 5/8" thick and sometimes thicker. My last Vanguard blade was great. Cut through everything including agates quickly. I felt it reached an end even after dressing so many times so I switched to a new blade. Well, this new blade seemed to not work as well as the last one, even from the beginning (i think the style was a bit different). I'm having trouble cutting through agates even after making like 10 slabs off the SiC stick/block. Question 3: Should I just go ahead and also switch to an MK series blade and use with oil? thanks, Jimi I only use MK303 blades in my Lortone trim saw. I am able to split bahia agate nodules that are like 1.25" tall and 2" long with no problem. I have always used water in my trim saw for two reasons. Number one is that I hate the mess of oil on my hands all the time. Number two is that My cabs go straight form the trim saw to the 100 grit diamond wheel then right to the dop station. I would not want to worry about all the clean up and if any oil residue is left it would not let the wax adhere. I do think I sacrifice blade life with water but the reasons I stated outweigh the cost of needing blades more often. Chuck
|
|
|
Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jan 27, 2016 11:03:55 GMT -5
I should have added that after using the MK303 blades for the last 3 yrs or so I have never dressed one. They have cut the same from the first cut to the last and I use them till the sintered edge is gone and sparks start flying because I am starting to hit the steel core. Would like to hear other opinions on that. I am talking 6" trim saw not slab saw.
Chuck
|
|
|
Post by broseph82 on Jan 27, 2016 11:06:02 GMT -5
I only use MK303 blades in my Lortone trim saw. I am able to split bahia agate nodules that are like 1.25" tall and 2" long with no problem. I have always used water in my trim saw for two reasons. Number one is that I hate the mess of oil on my hands all the time. Number two is that My cabs go straight form the trim saw to the 100 grit diamond wheel then right to the dop station. I would not want to worry about all the clean up and if any oil residue is left it would not let the wax adhere. I do think I sacrifice blade life with water but the reasons I stated outweigh the cost of needing blades more often. Chuck Thanks Chuck, I typically wear rubber gloves through my whole process of trimming, slabbing, and even grinding on wheels. I don't mind rinsing off some oil first. Maybe I just need a better blade, But I would still like to make a hood for it. I just dont have anything small enough (like plastic tupperware to fit the size) to make it and I'm no engineer. And yes, before anyone asks, I have searched and searched and searched to try and find my answer before asking here.
|
|
|
Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jan 27, 2016 11:18:19 GMT -5
Trim saw is one spot I want 100% visibility. keeping a hood clear enough for my needs would be difficult. You have the blade guard and the small splash shield on and still get sprayed? I have seen people and a larger thin plastic shield right onto the stock metal shield.
Chuck
|
|
|
Post by captbob on Jan 27, 2016 11:25:00 GMT -5
Hey Jimi, is it possible that you have too much oil (whatever) in your saw reservoir? Too much would make for excessive spray.
When the saw has been sitting idle for awhile (like a day of more), try rotating the blade by hand to see where the wetness level is on the rim of the blade. It should only be 1/4 inch or so (mine is actually less than that) up on the blade or you will have a sloppy mess when you turn the machine on.
|
|
|
Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Jan 27, 2016 11:32:42 GMT -5
water level is key to spray for sure. Might want to keep your eyes peeled for clear storage containers. If you find one that fits you can easily cut hand holes in the sides. This being the end goal Chuck
|
|
SirRoxalot
freely admits to licking rocks
Member since October 2003
Posts: 790
|
Post by SirRoxalot on Jan 27, 2016 12:58:18 GMT -5
Simple facts, blades are a PITA and rock saws are messy. I don't use oil because it turns into a mist and you've got potential for lung damage and creating a very nice explosion.
Use plastic sheets around the edges, or garbage bags on wires, to control the overspray, or a simple strip of plastic bent over from front to back atop the blade; and bunches of rags to clean up after the cutting session. Gloves around any form of spinning machinery are not a good idea.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Jan 27, 2016 14:22:04 GMT -5
I doubt if you can use a complete top because you don't have a vice (or at least probably one that is good enough to run totally with gravity feed. Hence you want your hands in there. That said you can certainly reduce the splatter in several ways. 1. Make sure you are not using too much fluid as mentioned by the Capt. 2. Make some larger shields to deflect the splashes wherever you don't have to havd a hand entry point. I've been meaning to post a type of shower stall bracket that is easily adapted for making side guards for saws, cab machines etc. I shop for mine at Habitat's Restore but I'm sure you can buy it from a new hardware supply source. Its basically a double U shaped aluminum strip. One U goes on the edge of your saw table, the other holds a piece of plexicglass to deflect spray. I'll go snap a photo and add to the post in a few moments. This is one on the side of my 10". Plexiglass held by U shaped molding. Here's similar application on my trim saw. This may show the bracket better. You might even want a U shaped Plexiglas that ran from one side to the other across the top leaving narrow area for hands from front or front sides. Many folks have built partial shields. 3. Me, I'd use oil in your situation. You are doing more than trimming and thicker slabs can be harder to feed straight and hence generate heat on the blade. Oil will perform better in hot situations. 4. Try to use a vice, even if you are indeed hand feeding it. It will move straighter and your slabs like to be more parallel (and your blade happier. 5. If you don't have a vice, glue your stones onto a 2x2 that essential is the vice as use slide it on the table top. Again much easier to go straight and reduce stress on blade. 6. Use the best blade you can afford and a 303 is close on that score. 7. If you go to oil, use no smoke to reduce misting. 8. In my eyes most of disadvantages of oil are tolerable, and it also means you don't have to clean your saw daily. More in a moment. 9. I made this cover from a Rubbermaid tub. It was the right width and I shortened it by cutting at an angle and bending the lower margin in to correct length. You would need holes for hands and maybe a hole or window in top for viewing, but still would provide protection. Tom
|
|
|
Post by orrum on Jan 27, 2016 15:30:45 GMT -5
I use clear containers Chuck n even have one with holes in each side for my hands to hold the stone or slab.
|
|
|
Post by captbob on Jan 27, 2016 15:43:35 GMT -5
I LIKE that Rubbermaid saw cover. That's using your head there!
Double ingenuity points for that one.
|
|
Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,709
|
Post by Fossilman on Jan 28, 2016 10:40:56 GMT -5
I just bought my trim saw, used from Don, haven't had the time to set it up yet...Probably run water mixture in it too.... As for blades, I will use what was sent to me, till replacement, than buy a MK303 blade... My 14" has a MK303,nothing better in my books... Getting all this information on notes, so I can run it without troubles...Thumbs up I guess a little spatter doesn't hurt....
|
|
|
Post by captbob on Jan 28, 2016 11:14:31 GMT -5
Put baby oil in it (baby oil is mineral oil) your rocks and shop smell nice and your hands sure won't mind.
|
|
Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,709
|
Post by Fossilman on Jan 28, 2016 11:55:05 GMT -5
Heck,some "Jack"!!!!!
|
|
|
Post by broseph82 on Jan 29, 2016 19:07:50 GMT -5
fossilman captbobI've ordered a MK303. It'll be here next week. I think I'm gonna switch to oil and wear my respirator when trimming. For the stuff I want to cut I need it cooled more and want the blade to last longer. May have to clean hands more, but a quicker cooler cut is worth it. I started out doing lapidary on all oil so I think I can handle it. Why not put milk in there and with the heat and churning of the blade make rockgurt?
|
|
Fossilman
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,709
|
Post by Fossilman on Jan 29, 2016 19:10:57 GMT -5
fossilman captbobI've ordered a MK303. It'll be here next week. I think I'm gonna switch to oil and wear my respirator when trimming. For the stuff I want to cut I need it cooled more and want the blade to last longer. May have to clean hands more, but a quicker cooler cut is worth it. I started out doing lapidary on all oil so I think I can handle it. Why not put milk in there and with the heat and churning of the blade make rockgurt? Rockgurt-LMAO......
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jan 29, 2016 19:56:24 GMT -5
Wouldn't that be rock-cotta? Like the cheese? One does use heat to make that delicacy!
|
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,548
|
Post by jamesp on Jan 29, 2016 20:52:00 GMT -5
a giant condom comes to mind.
|
|
Intheswamp
Cave Dweller
Member since September 2015
Posts: 1,910
|
Post by Intheswamp on Jan 29, 2016 22:21:19 GMT -5
a giant condom comes to mind. Coleman brand??? PS... It's amazing how thoughts transcend threads.
|
|
jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,548
|
Post by jamesp on Jan 30, 2016 0:16:35 GMT -5
a giant condom comes to mind. Coleman brand??? PS... It's amazing how thoughts transcend threads. Figured that would pop up again. Crystal ball dialed in.
|
|