quartz
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breakin' rocks in the hot sun
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Post by quartz on Apr 20, 2016 23:18:08 GMT -5
Battery is standing on end a little bit left and above ctr. on first pic.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2016 0:22:23 GMT -5
Found it!
Love this thread. Makes me happy.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2016 17:39:58 GMT -5
Re-reading that wiki makes me think a 1-1 drive on the belt and a 1750rpm motor would suffice. Might could go all the way to 3500 @ 1-->2 drive. Small amplitude for smoother surface. Waiting on a bonus check to gather parts. Likely build two. I always build two when I build. Looks like 6" PVC T w/plug-cleanout for all three opening will make a reasonable but large tank. Maybe 12#? Will advise. Muffler hanger will end up being the rubber pivots. Valve springs from a dead car at pick a part will be the springs. Motors on eBay. May shout out here first. All the rest is easy to source. EBay is your friend. Prolly get pulleys at ace hardware. Gotta check shaft size on those. Counterweights problem solved by jamesp he is clever and properly frugal.
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Post by oregon on Apr 23, 2016 23:02:29 GMT -5
Actually - what kind of plug do you have in the other end, or do you unscrew the entire plate each time? oregon , this is the bottom of one of my 5 gallon barrels. I've built over 20 barrels of this style and in various sizes, none have failed. If there is an interest, I will put up a detailed construction procedure.
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quartz
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breakin' rocks in the hot sun
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Post by quartz on Apr 23, 2016 23:54:17 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2016 0:27:22 GMT -5
I make the openable end the same pattern as closed, set 1/4" hanger bolts in the barrel that stick up thru the cover. With innertube or soft pond liner for a gasket, the nuts on the hanger bolts don't have to be more than snug. One thing I learned, the gaskets on both ends need to be rings rather than solid discs, the center wears out on a disc and makes a great grit and pebble trap. The holes for the screws and hanger bolts need to be pre-drilled, I drill the covers first then use hose clamps to hold the covers in alignment on the barrel while match drilling into the barrel. On the openable end, I drill the cover the same size as for setting the hanger bolts into the barrel, then open the cover holes up for bolt clearance after drilling into the barrel. It's hard getting the holes in the gaskets w/o punching them, so I mark the gasket mtl. by sticking a pointed tool thru the drilled covers then hand punching with a hole punch. New hole punches have proven too wimpy for the job, have a couple older ones found at garage sales. No idea why this turned yellow. Yellow is for links. You had a link tag there. [ a ] without the spaces.
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Post by nowyo on Apr 24, 2016 21:46:53 GMT -5
I just now saw this thread. quartz that is really impressive. Thanks for posting that. Russ
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quartz
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breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,341
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Post by quartz on Apr 24, 2016 23:12:33 GMT -5
nowyo, thanks for the comment, now make one so there's more people to share ideas with.
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Post by nowyo on Apr 25, 2016 21:06:30 GMT -5
Been rolling some ideas through my head for a while, but I fear it'll be some time before I can get to it. But, who knows, I may blow off some other stuff.
Russ
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quartz
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breakin' rocks in the hot sun
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Posts: 3,341
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Post by quartz on Apr 25, 2016 23:41:20 GMT -5
@shotgunner, I got under my pickup today and squeezed the tailpipe hanger rubber, nice and pliable, I think you made a good choice. Do go for a 2:1 overdrive if you get a 1725 motor, getting a 3450 would be good if you find one.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 26, 2016 9:05:42 GMT -5
@shotgunner, I got under my pickup today and squeezed the tailpipe hanger rubber, nice and pliable, I think you made a good choice. Do go for a 2:1 overdrive if you get a 1725 motor, getting a 3450 would be good if you find one. Thanks Larry! I have one more idea. The rubbers used in the trucks of a skateboard. They are ready to use, no drilling, come in multiple hardness and are quite inexpensive. I'm ready to build. Have to be my roller tumbling first, then I'm building.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Apr 26, 2016 9:42:00 GMT -5
Cool stuff. Home made vibes.
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quartz
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breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,341
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Post by quartz on Apr 26, 2016 23:16:16 GMT -5
Skateboard tires, interesting, going to have a look at them. Learned something when I started a new run the other day; took the springs loose and started sliding them up along the frame rails toward the pivot end while watching the load rotate. I hit a real sweet spot with the springs under the center of the shaft pillow blocks, rotational rate of the load speeded up, but load stayed pretty quiet. Haven't anchored the springs down, and they show no sign of wanting to crawl out on their own. Might want to put that in you things to try book.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 27, 2016 8:04:50 GMT -5
Awesome experiment! Not tires. Skateboard truck rubbers.they even come in purple. It's the bottom one most likely.
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Post by oregon on Apr 27, 2016 11:40:12 GMT -5
Trucks certainly should be fine and inexpensive. Another option might be making cable isolators if you have some spare wire cable around. Not sure why they seem to be a preferred choice in high tech environs, or why they're so expensive, but always look intriguing when I come across them and shouldn't be hard to make something similar.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 27, 2016 12:25:56 GMT -5
Trucks certainly should be fine and inexpensive. Another option might be making cable isolators if you have some spare wire cable around. Not sure why they seem to be a preferred choice in high tech environs, or why they're so expensive, but always look intriguing when I come across them and shouldn't be hard to make something similar. Not trucks, but the bushings. To be the fexpoint at the pivot end of the chassis. How would your thingiees fit in here?
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Post by oregon on Apr 27, 2016 15:40:10 GMT -5
You just need a long lasting connection between the moving and non moving parts right? The lotto uses spring steel, the other vibes seem to use coil springs. The rubber bushings should do, but I think these isolators are used in scenarios where rubber mounts are not up snuff. I've also seen this type of wire isolator used to mount cameras to vibrating objects. Stiff but flexible I guess. Maybe the front of the frame only has to be on a pivoting axle? Certainly plenty of experiments to be done. Not a MEch E here, just tossing out an idea.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 27, 2016 20:53:50 GMT -5
I get it.mthose wires to stabilize the spring mount. I had planned on just running a bolt up thru everything and using a nylon insert lock nut to hold it all together.
Have consided using the new dual threaded bolts. One fine nut, one coarse thread nut, both thread on the same bolt. The vibrations try to cause the nuts to drift,k but because they drift at different rates, the are locked togther, no movement.
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quartz
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breakin' rocks in the hot sun
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Post by quartz on Apr 27, 2016 23:00:57 GMT -5
Shows what I know about skateboards, near nothing. Look like good parts to use. I have wing nuts holding things together on the pivot end, find the ability to adjust has been helpful. I have had them loosen a few times but think serrated or star washers would stop that. the way it's set now, having no problem.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 28, 2016 11:46:22 GMT -5
Have the day off. After domestic chores I'm gonna get some 6" and get something rolling. Then gonna source the metal parts for one of these.
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