Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 29, 2016 8:46:02 GMT -5
Haha! Just learned homedepot sell 6" pvc parts. Ordered a tank for this project and a 2' section of 6" riser to finish my rolling barrel. Larry, 6" parts frm home depot are buy online ship to store, or ship to your home for free. No shipping cost, no driving far to parts houses. jamesp, hoping to replicate your results. I have 30 grit and 500 AO on hand. Sorry amigo.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 29, 2016 8:51:24 GMT -5
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Tommy
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Post by Tommy on Apr 29, 2016 10:00:29 GMT -5
Scott I've got a 1/4 hp 3450 rpm that came off a desktop belt sander - you can have it if you want it. It works - I was testing it on a tumbler project but I lost interest in the project lol.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 29, 2016 10:03:46 GMT -5
Scott I've got a 1/4 hp 3450 rpm that came off a desktop belt sander - you can have it if you want it. It works - I was testing it on a tumbler project but I lost interest in the project lol. Omg, at least let me pay postage on that and the stoney Creek box...
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quartz
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Post by quartz on Apr 29, 2016 23:53:31 GMT -5
@shotgunner, looks like your motor selection is solved, but I'll toss an opinion on the one you asked about. I shy from face mount motors if I can because of the increased work necessary to figure out a mount, not totally against, but second choice, foot mount so much easier. The one you listed might need a capacitor purchase from the way it reads, that's no big deal. It isn't clear in the description whether it is self cooled or has an air over requirement, air over can be worked around, but that makes the project bigger. I'm a little confused by the description, one place says 3450 R.P.M., another says 3600...?? It does look like a workable motor, like the ball bearing shaft support.
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quartz
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Post by quartz on Apr 30, 2016 11:14:08 GMT -5
@shotgunner, I looked up the 6" PVC parts this A.M., that gets spendy with buying the Tee fitting. Suggestion: Get a length of pipe the length you want + 3-4", saw off the 3-4" and fit it sideways on the side of the intended barrel piece, making your own Tee. Mark where to cut the hole in the side of the pipe, cut it out and glue the short piece to the "barrel" W/PVC glue, works for me, and saves a pot of loot. You don't need a fancy cap for the opening of the Tee, mainly something to keep the load from drying out, handy wrap and a rubber band will work. I economize as much as possible when a project is a total experiment, don't lose as much if it fails, but found this one works.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2016 13:26:01 GMT -5
quartzLarry, you took one for the team. I have the luxury to KNOW it works! And TIME is a curse word. I only get 15 minutes here and 30 minutes there. Plus I suck at making that kind of cut. I have confidence I can make it work. Today my previous obligations keep me from spending more time. I estimate once I have all the parts assembled, it's 2-4 hours assembly. Max. Once I get it all working, then disassemble, grit blast and powder coat. Hoping they have purple. Deciding on whether to color or polish the fasteners. I'm thinking going stainless and then polishing the visible parts. Have even been considering how to purple'ize the barrel. May have that solved too! Now, I have to go sell an entry door!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2016 13:29:36 GMT -5
As for motor. Tommy has me 1/4hp to build with. That is overkill. So then once I have a working model,I will need to test 1/20 & 1/16 HP. For energy conservation it makes sense to go with the smallest motor that can do the job. 1/20 is like what? 80 Watts? Thanks for catching that was face mount. I agree that is a headache. I have a small number of distributers to call and get specific.
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Tommy
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Post by Tommy on Apr 30, 2016 20:27:01 GMT -5
As for motor. Tommy has me 1/4hp to build with. I got lazy yesterday so it went out today
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quartz
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Post by quartz on Apr 30, 2016 23:07:33 GMT -5
If you are going to experiment with smaller and smaller motors you want to keep your friction in the drive [bearings and belt] to a minimum, keep the shaft small and belt narrow, I use a 3L belt. My motor is 1/8 HP, works fine, uses ~275 watts, less would certainly be better, another avenue to explore.
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Post by Deleted on May 1, 2016 15:43:28 GMT -5
If you are going to experiment with smaller and smaller motors you want to keep your friction in the drive [bearings and belt] to a minimum, keep the shaft small and belt narrow, I use a 3L belt. My motor is 1/8 HP, works fine, uses ~275 watts, less would certainly be better, another avenue to explore. Digested that for a bit. Shaft small...... = smaller bearings, check Belt small.... = less belt in contact with sheaves, check 3450 motor.... = no overdrive, smaller sheaves possible, check Softer rubber pivot end..... = easier pivot, check What is left is to make the off balance weights heavy enough to easily overcome the spring tension. But not so heavy as to shake the thing to jamesp's house. NOTE TO SELFBased on another thread, will run obsidian first. Get machine set for smooth work on glass. Then see if that setting works on agates.....
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quartz
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Post by quartz on May 1, 2016 23:13:51 GMT -5
Glad to see digestion went well. The way you said you are making them might take a little fiddling, but if you come up w/3450 motor, it won't take much weight offset to shake it. The adjustability by rotating the weights makes a big difference. Maybe jamesp will share the bolt size he used on the set collars, good for starters.
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Post by Deleted on May 2, 2016 10:14:07 GMT -5
Here is my vision of the adjustability of this machine. A) see below B) this is the guide pin. It allows adjustable compression on the main springs. Tight springs equal less amplitude of motion, but energy is conserved. Allows for stronger cut with less aggressive motion. C) moving the hopper closer to the pivot shortens the length of stroke, maintains energy.
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Post by Deleted on May 2, 2016 10:16:15 GMT -5
This is #1) above. Two opposing counterweights on each end of the shaft. In my crude drawing top left is zero motion. Then in "hourly" increments the strength of the vibration increases, with infinite adjustability, as the two counterweights get closer, the vibration gets stronger. Bottom right is maximum motion. My gut feeling says that when one finds the sweet spot for fragile obsidian, that same setting will work for harder materials. Maybe the cut is slower on harder stuff, but will still work. Alternatively, one can adjust the machine to cut both materials optimally and note the setting for future loads. Maybe my gut is wrong.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on May 2, 2016 12:05:43 GMT -5
I will check, I think they were 5/16" nuts welded to the collars. Nuts so bolts can be secured for further off-balance.
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quartz
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Post by quartz on May 2, 2016 22:59:45 GMT -5
I like the idea of being able to slide the barrel a little, adds to versatility. When you make the weight set, make some reference marks so you know where you are, relative to where you were, when hunting that sweet spot. I marked the moveable weight every 1/8" with a center punch, have one reference point on fixed weight.
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quartz
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Post by quartz on May 3, 2016 12:16:54 GMT -5
I don't know where you plan to put the weights, but inside the pillow blocks is much better than outside as I put them, big safety hazard. The only reason I put them outside is to make them easier to change if I had to make a big swing at adjustability, not knowing at that time if the machine would work at all. If I have to take mine apart, the weights will then go inside.
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