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Post by johnjsgems on Mar 18, 2016 11:49:07 GMT -5
I recently purchased the Gy-Roc "Preformer" saw line. I have been making a few changes but have a need for opinions. I have sold many brands for yeas and even the best sometimes send out products that clearly were never tested before shipping. I got the idea of testing each saw before boxing up by cutting a free form preform and including the preform with te saw with note saw was tested by cutting. Yesterday I used the water sump and table from my test saw on the first complete saw to test cut to eliminate any scratches and avoid getting new saw too dirty. All went well except for one thing. To include a blade but keep price down I installed a green Chinese blade which tested pretty well on my test saw. The problem is the little bit of test cutting leaves scratches in the green blade paint. Do you think it is better to test cut with a test blade and install an unused blade on saw after test or sell with a blade that has been tested but is now scratched? Opinions appreciated.
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Fossilman
Cave Dweller 
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,723 
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Post by Fossilman on Mar 18, 2016 11:57:35 GMT -5
I would rather have a new blade with my new saw,if purchased brand new.....Thumbs up
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Member since January 1970
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2016 12:04:57 GMT -5
I recently purchased the Gy-Roc "Preformer" saw line. I have been making a few changes but have a need for opinions. I have sold many brands for yeas and even the best sometimes send out products that clearly were never tested before shipping. I got the idea of testing each saw before boxing up by cutting a free form preform and including the preform with te saw with note saw was tested by cutting. Yesterday I used the water sump and table from my test saw on the first complete saw to test cut to eliminate any scratches and avoid getting new saw too dirty. All went well except for one thing. To include a blade but keep price down I installed a green Chinese blade which tested pretty well on my test saw. The problem is the little bit of test cutting leaves scratches in the green blade paint. Do you think it is better to test cut with a test blade and install an unused blade on saw after test or sell with a blade that has been tested but is now scratched? Opinions appreciated. Some companies charge a "proofing" fee to do what you describe. For the extra money, the buyer wants to see the blade used. Why not make multiple packages? One with the Chinese blade and one with a 301? Let your buyers decide. Never make choices for the buyer. |
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Post by rockjunquie on Mar 18, 2016 12:18:12 GMT -5
I think it is a great idea to test each saw!! It should work well to eliminate any hassles for both the buyer and you. They are so big and heavy who needs the shipping headaches of returns? I do think they should ship with a new blade, though. A buyer has no way of really knowing how much you used that blade.
My husband is qa for Stihl chainsaws. They test every unit that goes out. Plus, dealers have to go through the process of cutting something with each new customer. It has helped their brand. It will only help you, too! I know that if I was putting out that kind of money, it would help to put my reservations aside.
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Don
Cave Dweller
He wants you too, Malachi.
Member since December 2009
Posts: 2,616
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Post by Don on Mar 18, 2016 12:42:00 GMT -5
people like shiny new paint. test the saw, give them a shiny blade.
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Post by johnjsgems on Mar 18, 2016 13:13:13 GMT -5
OK, consensus says new blade. After seeing the scratched paint I thought so too. I plan on offering two versions, one with Green blade, one with either 301 or Agate Kutter. Agate Kutter more likely as it is rated for high speed, water cooled and extra thickness tested better chopping through thick rock than the 301 which wanted to deflect. The 301 trimmed fast and smooth like the little MK145 with lapidary blade though. The green blade tested better than I suspected both trimming and cutting through 3" rock. About $100 price difference between green blade and either 301 or 305. Saw runs just under 3200 rpm.
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Post by Pat on Mar 18, 2016 13:14:34 GMT -5
I would accept the once-used saw blade, but would like a note attached to it (explaining the scratches) that particular blade was tested in that particular saw. You could include your freeform preform with it. It would give confidence to the buyer that all was well.
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 4, 2016 18:15:02 GMT -5
Well, finally got the saw on the website. Decided on using the Agate Kutter as standard and 301 as option (same price). After test cutting first saw decided it made too much of a mess and took a long time to clean. I put the preform in that saw tank and noted test cut. Going to just run the saw and pump from now on. It is a pretty simple saw so if it runs it will cut. Thanks again to all that responded.
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Mark K
Cave Dweller
Member since April 2012
Posts: 2,819
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Post by Mark K on Apr 4, 2016 20:00:17 GMT -5
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 5, 2016 10:39:52 GMT -5
Looks like it. I sell them as "Mean Green Blades". It test cut surprisingly well. Did not cut as smooth as the MK/BD blades but did cut slabs and 3" rock without deflecting or stalling. I sell a lot of them. One customer buys 5 or more at a time so they must work for some people. I used them on my first saw. Next saw I had I got one that wobbled. Got mad after trying to straighten and bought a 303C. Never went back myself. I really prefer 301 blades now.
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Mark K
Cave Dweller
Member since April 2012
Posts: 2,819
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Post by Mark K on Apr 5, 2016 15:26:07 GMT -5
I bought a package deal of those BUTW blades and what a pile of crap they were. I could not cut agate at all. They would barely cut soft stuff. When I complained, I got a read between the lines, "F you" reply.
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 6, 2016 10:56:23 GMT -5
I used the Green blade on my first saw and it worked OK. My saw runs at about 3200 rpm so maybe that makes a difference. Chinese blades are baffling to me. At Quartzsite when we did Desert Gardens show the Aussie sold very cheap priced Chinese blades. I had about 50/50 comments split between "I'll gladly buy your BD blades, those Chinese blades are no good" and "I would never pay those prices when I can get the Chinese blades for a fraction of the cost and they work great". Never could understand but always those two extremes with seemingly no middle ground. By the way, I sell the Green 8" for $20. The BD/MK 303C are $50 ea. Big price difference. And then there is the 301 and 305 blades.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Apr 6, 2016 12:12:06 GMT -5
I used the Green blade on my first saw and it worked OK. My saw runs at about 3200 rpm so maybe that makes a difference. Chinese blades are baffling to me. At Quartzsite when we did Desert Gardens show the Aussie sold very cheap priced Chinese blades. I had about 50/50 comments split between "I'll gladly buy your BD blades, those Chinese blades are no good" and "I would never pay those prices when I can get the Chinese blades for a fraction of the cost and they work great". Never could understand but always those two extremes with seemingly no middle ground. By the way, I sell the Green 8" for $20. The BD/MK 303C are $50 ea. Big price difference. And then there is the 301 and 305 blades. John, do you know if the BD-305 Agate kutter blade is a newly designed product from Barranca or a relabeling/re-marketing of one of their older tile saw blades? Also curious if you or anyone else one this site has tried that blade yet. I've been wanting a high diamond concentration water cooled blade for trimming slabs and the BD-305 looks interesting. Also had been looking at the MK-62Q blade to give a try as a water cooled blade on my 14" drop saw but the BD-305 would be less expensive and has a thinner kerf than the Mk-62Q. Does anyone here have any user reviews of either of the BD-305 or MK-62Q blades that they would like to share? Larry C. |
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Mark K
Cave Dweller
Member since April 2012
Posts: 2,819
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Post by Mark K on Apr 6, 2016 14:30:03 GMT -5
I think I should clarify something very important.
I did not buy those garbage blades from John. John is NOT the one who gave me the F.O. response.
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 6, 2016 18:01:37 GMT -5
Mark, I tried the 305 for first time on this saw testing. It worked well for slabbing because of the .050" thickness. The 301 at .040" breezed through slab trimming amazingly fast but deflected and stalled motor slabbing without a vise. The 305 has a much taller rim and high diamond concentration. It is the MK Hot Dog blade relabeled. The 305 went through 3" hard rock well but due to extra thickness did not trim slabs as fast. I am making it the standard blade mainly because it is rated for high speed water cooled applications. And because it would work for trim or slab. I've never used the 62Q but it is the blade included on the core saws. I know several mines are using the 301 for core sample cutting because the cut surface is so smooth they can inspect easier.
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Post by johnjsgems on Apr 6, 2016 18:03:06 GMT -5
Mark, another thought. I have used painted blades in the past that had such a thick layer of paint they did not cut until the paint was worn through. You might want to try dressing one and see if it will cut.
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Mark K
Cave Dweller
Member since April 2012
Posts: 2,819
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Post by Mark K on Apr 6, 2016 18:12:49 GMT -5
I cut a chunk of grinding wheel with it. It didn't change anything.
The MK blades are what I use.
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