ulalume
off to a rocking start
Member since February 2014
Posts: 12 
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Post by ulalume on May 13, 2016 5:57:59 GMT -5
Hi everyone,
I have been grappling with this particular saw for years now. I had it imported to Scotland in 2012, and ever since it has been troublesome. However, right now it is the non-sintered diamond blade I am running in it. It appears to have become blunt, or at least ACTS like a blunt blade would, uncommonly quickly- under a month. I have sharpened it numerous times but that no longer seems to have an effect. It leaves marks in the faces of specimens (most would be familiar with the elliptical scoring that must be later ground out) and vibrates more than is usual when cutting larger stones.
I was wondering if anyone could maybe please advise me on what the problem may be? I use water as a coolant, could using oil (mineral oil perhaps?) have a positive effect? I can't afford to keep buying a new diamond blade every month, so any help anyone can give me would be very much appreciated. Thanks
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Post by orrum on May 13, 2016 8:46:53 GMT -5
Blade is dished maybe?
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ulalume
off to a rocking start
Member since February 2014
Posts: 12
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Post by ulalume on May 13, 2016 9:06:15 GMT -5
Thanks for your reply. No, the blade does not appear dished.
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Post by victor1941 on May 13, 2016 21:53:18 GMT -5
I would use mineral oil and make sure the blade is sharpened after flattening the cutting edge with a ball peen hammer with the blade removed. I sharpen by cutting a Norton coarse grinding wheel several times or about 10 linear inches.
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ulalume
off to a rocking start
Member since February 2014
Posts: 12
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Post by ulalume on May 16, 2016 2:17:09 GMT -5
Thank you very much for your advice. I sharpen using a coarse grinding wheel, as you recommend, however, what mineral oil would you recommend I use? Thanks again:-)
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Post by Peruano on May 16, 2016 7:56:12 GMT -5
Any light mineral oil can be used. Here in the US baby oil and the mineral oil sold for laxatives are commonly used, although I have a distinct feeling that the mineral oils sold for horses and other veterinary laxatives are lighter and preferable. Go to your local pharmacy for small bottles or veterinary supply store and buy it by the gallon. However I doubt very much that switching to oil alone will solve your problem. You may be burning up (i.e. overheating your blade) and thus will have to adjust cutting speed and pressure no matter what oil you use and you may need a new blade to start out with in conjunction with the new feeding technique. Once a blade is gone its gone. Good luck and stay the course. Tom
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Post by johnjsgems on May 16, 2016 11:02:39 GMT -5
Is this a new Highland Park? If feed rate is adjustable Tom's advise is very helpful. Most saws that size use a feed motor without any adjustment. Make sure the vise carriage is square to blade and not worn. What blade is it?
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ulalume
off to a rocking start
Member since February 2014
Posts: 12
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Post by ulalume on May 16, 2016 15:59:30 GMT -5
Thanks very much to all of you for your help. It's very much appreciated. It's not an automatic feed, and so yes, I know myself sometimes feeding by hand I go too quickly, and use too much pressure. I'm just trying to eliminate any other factors that may affect the quality of cut. It's a Hi Tech Diamond 10" slab saw, I had it imported to Scotland a few years ago. The motor has been replaced. I use excellent continuous-rimmed blades from a small English company called Malvern Lapidary. I have the vise designed to fit the saw, however it didn't fit the saw! The shaft that the vise runs on tends to stick and it is very easy to have it fall apart while in mid-cut. So I started free-handing again. Anyway, thanks again, I will try using mineral oil.
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Post by victor1941 on May 16, 2016 17:28:58 GMT -5
Ulalume, since I can't see your blade my suggestion was to make sure the front edge of the blade is flat and not rounded or u shape. Sharpening or dressing for me is the next step after reshaping the front edge which helps determine the saw kerf and ease of cutting.
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ulalume
off to a rocking start
Member since February 2014
Posts: 12
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Post by ulalume on May 16, 2016 18:14:22 GMT -5
Thanks Victor. I have bought a hammer for the very purpose you advise, and will have a look at the blade again once I receive it. I would ask though, how much force should I apply if the blade's edge does indeed seem misshapen? Are we talking a series of small taps here, just to flatten it out? I wouldn't want to cause any further damage, of course. Thanks again for your time.
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Post by victor1941 on May 16, 2016 18:43:05 GMT -5
Ulalume, I apply light taps to see how much the steel bends and then go around enough times until the front edge is square to the side. I set the blade bottom edge on a piece of wood and hold the blade with one hand while I tap with other. I have done this many times over the years on expensive 14" blades with no problem.
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Post by spiceman on May 16, 2016 21:17:47 GMT -5
Just a guess because I have nothing to compare to, but maybe the bearing are bad and the inter race vibrates. If the bearing are from China it's possible. With the blade stopped check for side to side movement
Just a guess
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Post by johnjsgems on May 17, 2016 10:32:58 GMT -5
Sorry, I missed the Hi-Tech I guess. I didn't know they had that saw that long ago. If it is the one they make now it is a direct drive so only bearings are in the motor.
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ulalume
off to a rocking start
Member since February 2014
Posts: 12
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Post by ulalume on May 18, 2016 2:12:52 GMT -5
Thanks Victor, I will have a go. Thanks for your input Spiceman, the blade does vibrate when I cut larger material, and it does waver from side to side just before it comes to a stop after I shut it down. The main shaft has been replaced once before. All the imperative components seem to wear very quickly. Thanks John js, and yes I think the saw I have is a direct drive. I have a ball pein hammer and mineral oil due, so I will see if mediating my cutting with more sharpening and oil and blade maintenance helps. Thanks for taking the time to reply everyone:-)
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ulalume
off to a rocking start
Member since February 2014
Posts: 12
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Post by ulalume on May 18, 2016 10:57:18 GMT -5
Hi everyone. It runs fine. Cuts fine. Shakes almost violently at the end of a cut, obviously I am not "pushing" at this stage. So, from what has been suggested, it's a motor problem? The bearings? Anyone know where I can get a good saw imported to the uk for a decent price?  ? |
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Post by johnjsgems on May 18, 2016 12:09:11 GMT -5
Your problem is the import duties, VAT, etc. Those and freight charges double your cost pretty much.
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stillalive
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since May 2011
Posts: 136
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Post by stillalive on Aug 23, 2016 13:03:33 GMT -5
Hi Jan,
John is absolutely right,it's unfortunate for those of us who inhabit these distant isles!
I have seen,and purchased many fine items of lapidary equipment,(my much loved,and about to be upgraded to diamond,Highland Park e10),on ebay uk,- I know it takes time to find the right tools,-but they are the key to everything,and do appear over here,and are definitely worth the wait to find and renovate/upgrade etc,my old e10 is capable of seeing out several generations of lapidaries,with correct usage and a bit of tlc,-,and can be easily converted to a separate saw + full on cabbing unit for not much extra,for anyone who is interested,an unused Hp a50 on ebay uk right now-about as rare as rocking horse shit!
Pm,me Jan.
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Post by johnjsgems on Aug 23, 2016 14:42:33 GMT -5
You lost me on "decent price". With the import duties, VAT, etc. your price on anything is double our price in US. If the High Tech saw is plastic sump I would not use oil. Oil will eventually dissolve the plastic. Better for blade cooling but not very good in plastic saws. By the way, does it shake with different blade or no blade installed? Also, don't over tighten blade nut.
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ulalume
off to a rocking start
Member since February 2014
Posts: 12
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Post by ulalume on Dec 7, 2016 13:59:32 GMT -5
Thanks for all the help folks, I had assumed there were no new replies and not checked back here for some time....... Anyway, the shaking issues are due to the blade I think, not the machine. I think oil is advertised as being fine to use with the plastic casing, it is heat-treated plastic of course. I absolutely will not use water again as heat damage occurs to the faces of cut stones at random. Thanks for your help John. I will pm you stillalive, albeit forever delayed. Thanks for your help also.
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Post by johnjsgems on Dec 8, 2016 13:57:27 GMT -5
The dealer that sold my Cut Above saws at Denver had a Hi Tech 10" saw he was trying to sell cheap. He said it was a prototype he helped with developing. Really cheap looked to be more than it was worth to me.
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