glenng
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2015
Posts: 16 
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Post by glenng on Jun 18, 2016 22:20:20 GMT -5
Does anyone recognize this old 18" saw? I was told that it is a Lortone. I bought it used and it had recently been repainted blue, so I do not know the original color. I cannot find any manufacturer markings. I have never taken one apart, and I am trying to figure out how to remove the arbor flange to check the bearing. It sounds a little rough. Looking for some help with the first few steps. Hate to create a new problem. Hopefully the picture comes through - never posted one before. Thanks  |
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Post by catmandewe on Jun 19, 2016 0:03:30 GMT -5
That is a Frantom. Good saw!
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glenng
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2015
Posts: 16
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Post by glenng on Jun 19, 2016 12:12:34 GMT -5
Thanks. A little of the right info goes a long way. Any idea if the arbor flange is secures or just slides off the shaft? Thanks again.
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Post by Peruano on Jun 19, 2016 13:29:32 GMT -5
Another one of the rare left-handed saws. Even painted blue that's a keeper. You should see threads if it is indeed threaded, so I'm guessing that its held in place by a set screw, (but I'm just guessing).
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Deleted
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Member since January 1970
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Post by Deleted on Jun 19, 2016 13:42:27 GMT -5
Another one of the rare left-handed saws. Even painted blue that's a keeper. You should see threads if it is indeed threaded, so I'm guessing that its held in place by a set screw, (but I'm just guessing). I have a Frantom 24" at home. Ill look at mine to see if I can help. Does anyone else think its bizarre they drove the right side blade from the left side? Long shaft totally unnecessary, and less than ideal. |
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glenng
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2015
Posts: 16
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Post by glenng on Jun 19, 2016 14:16:09 GMT -5
Sorry for the misleading picture. I just had the blade sitting to the right side of the tub while looking at the end of the shaft. The area under the flange does not appear to be threaded, but didn't want to try to pry it off if it is set with a roll pin or set screw that I don't see.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 19, 2016 15:21:57 GMT -5
And when you roll it? You cannot see a set screw?
We are talking about the big collar/washer that holds the backside of the blade. Correct?
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glenng
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2015
Posts: 16
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Post by glenng on Jun 19, 2016 17:56:57 GMT -5
Yes, the one on the back side. Turns out there is a screw that is supposed to hold the sleeve to the washer. It was missing and the sleeve had been jammed into the back shoulder in the flange with the holes offset. I pried the sleeve back and there were two set screws pinning the flange to the shaft. Now I just need to figure out how to get the aluminum flange free without damaging it.
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glenng
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2015
Posts: 16
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Post by glenng on Jun 19, 2016 17:57:53 GMT -5
Another of several things that have not been quite right...
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Jun 19, 2016 18:23:38 GMT -5
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glenng
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2015
Posts: 16
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Post by glenng on Jun 19, 2016 19:10:11 GMT -5
Thanks. Will take another shot it tomorrow after a trip to the store.
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Post by catmandewe on Jun 19, 2016 20:07:40 GMT -5
Do the bearings sound like they need replaced?
If you are going to work on these a gear puller is invaluable.
Have fun.
Tony
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glenng
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2015
Posts: 16
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Post by glenng on Jun 19, 2016 22:15:09 GMT -5
There's definitely a rough spot in the rotation when turned by hand and appears to be grit in the grease. Grease seems a bit thin too. Figured I'd take a closer look to see what's going on, learn a few things, and clean up whatever needed before installing a new blade.
Suggestions, cautions, and words of wisdom welcome! Thanks
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quartz
Cave Dweller 
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,359
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Post by quartz on Jun 19, 2016 23:49:06 GMT -5
Aluminum expands near twice the rate of steel with heat applied. Warm the flange w/propane torch or similar before using a puller on it.
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glenng
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2015
Posts: 16
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Post by glenng on Jun 25, 2016 0:45:32 GMT -5
A little heat and a puller did the trick. Thanks for the help.
The bearing at the arbor end of the shaft looks pretty good so I'm not planning to go deeper there for now. Going to take a look at the bearing behind the pulleys. Grease comes right out through that bearing while the saw is running, which seems a little strange.
Anybody have a parts diagram or drawing for the Frantom saws? It sure would make it easier to inspect the machine with confidence!
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glenng
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2015
Posts: 16
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Post by glenng on Jun 26, 2016 18:06:23 GMT -5
Turns out the noise and roughness in the rotation was the spring and ball from a grease fitting that had fallen into the shaft housing at some point in the past. The grease fitting in the shaft housing was missing both, and I found them when I pulled and cleaned the shaft.
Only issue left is the inside bearing. It appears to be an oiled bearing but there is no oil bath or feed system. There is no place to inject grease when installed in the housing. there are a couple of grooves on the outer race and a couple of small lube holes in one of the grooves. Don't see how it is supposed to be lubricated, unless grease is supposed to get pushed through the bearing from the shaft housing. Seems strange. Maybe someone changed the bearing from original design? Anybody know if this sounds like the original bearing design for the Frantom saw?
External bearing feels good, just needed some grease. The grease fitting was missing and who knows when it was greased last. I did not realize there was an external fitting missing.
Shaft and arbor flange cleaned up. Looks like the outside arbor flange is not the one that should go with this saw. It is much smaller than the inside flange. Considering purchasing new outside flange.
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quartz
Cave Dweller
breakin' rocks in the hot sun
Member since February 2010
Posts: 3,359
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Post by quartz on Jun 26, 2016 23:36:47 GMT -5
The inner bearing is of a re-lubable design, original or not? Where is the zerk fitting located in relation to the outer bearing, sounds like it is between the bearings if the zerk parts fell into the housing. Does either bearing have seals on the inside of the bearing? If the sides of the bearings facing each other are open [no seals] and the zerk is between them, it may be the zerk is supposed to lube both bearings.
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Post by Rockoonz on Jun 26, 2016 23:42:52 GMT -5
Yeah, what Larry said...
The idea is to keep it packed with grease so a little seeping through the bearings will prevent rock snot from finding it's way in and ruining the inner bearing. Same principle as the wheel bearings on a boat trailer.
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glenng
off to a rocking start
Member since July 2015
Posts: 16
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Post by glenng on Jun 30, 2016 23:54:35 GMT -5
The outer bearing is a flange bearing with its own zerk as original design. Diamond Pacific guy says the inner bearing is supposed to be a sealed bearing and nothing goes in the housing between the bearings.
If true, it appears to me someone put an oiled bearing where the sealed bearing goes and installed a grease fitting into the shaft housing in order to pack the housing to lube the inner bearing and keep debris from getting into it as you guys suggest. While both can work, the sealed bearing seems like a better idea.
That said, I'm just going to go with the current equipment and pump grease into it as long as the grease will go through the small bearing clearance. If not, guess I'll have to change the inner bearing.
Now to get it back together!
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Post by Rockoonz on Jul 1, 2016 16:20:41 GMT -5
If you replace the bearing get sealed AND shielded if possible.
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