jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,561
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Post by jamesp on Jul 31, 2016 10:15:15 GMT -5
This is the '6" to 4" reducer coupling end'. The shoulder of the 6" to 4" reducer has worn clean thru to the gussets that were pre-filled with silicon caulk. The seam line under finger tip is the bushing-coupling seam. The next seam line is actually the center seam of the coupling about 2 inches coming away from finger tip. So the finger tip is touching the coupling, note the scalloping into the meat of the coupling. Looks like the wall of the barrel close to the ends wears much more than the center. Out at the edge is where the sch 40 pipe wore thru and the entire barrel split in two pieces. Lasted 3 years running only SiC 8-16-30-46, mostly SiC 30. What I did notice was the abrasive effects of sharp tumbles with no grit. Piling sharp hammer broken tumbles and running them for several days 3/4 full w/water just below rocks. The inside of the barrel was very abraded after busting the sharp edges off with no grit just from the sharp rocks. so sharp rocks alone do have impact on PVC barrel wear. Running broken up SiC grinding wheels is also very abrasive to the barrel. They are constantly supplying sharp grit in time release fashion. They also flat grind some rocks. Bushing chock full of silicon right from the start. Liking the PVC. This barrel caught serious use. I believe I replaced the end cap twice during it's life. It started as a 22 pound barrel, then cut down to an 18 pound barrel. Ran darn near 24 hours a day on straight steel shafts. About half at 30 RPM and half at 55 RPM.
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Post by victor1941 on Jul 31, 2016 12:32:26 GMT -5
James, I run a uv-18 that wears out at the same area each time. Do you think if I coat it with clear silicone or silicone and rubber tire strips that the extra time and cost would be worthwhile?
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,561
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Post by jamesp on Aug 1, 2016 3:10:51 GMT -5
James, I run a uv-18 that wears out at the same area each time. Do you think if I coat it with clear silicone or silicone and rubber tire strips that the extra time and cost would be worthwhile? Notice how that silicon is contained in those compartments ? It stays put. I think you will find the silicon to peel off if applied to a flat surface. Most tumbler barrels are polyethylenes and a bugger to get much to stick to them. You could sure apply a bit to the hopper and see if it stays put. The cemetery/toombstone business is big here in Georgia. I think we make 60% of the county's tombstones. They coat the face of the tombstone with some kind of rubber. then razor blade letters, then sand blast the letters into the granite. I would like to find out what kind of rubber they use. Maybe it would stick. I do know that rubber and polyurethane are about the best for fighting off abrasion. Like a Lortone rubber barrel, those things last forever. I am just not to fond of the seal in the cap.
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Post by victor1941 on Aug 1, 2016 10:04:45 GMT -5
Thanks for your reply. It just hurts when 90% of something is good and I can't figure a simple and cheap way to extend the life of this product. I want a way to recap the outside and if you have any thoughts please pass them my way.
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Post by MrP on Aug 1, 2016 19:53:13 GMT -5
Thanks for your reply. It just hurts when 90% of something is good and I can't figure a simple and cheap way to extend the life of this product. I want a way to recap the outside and if you have any thoughts please pass them my way. victor1941 I coat the inside with cheap thin super glue. I have had to do it 4 times in 2 years but am still able to use it for polish the last year. Easy to see light through it but still works. If you do coat it do it outside because using that much super glue gives off a lot of fumes. Good Luck....................................MrP
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Post by victor1941 on Aug 2, 2016 15:30:32 GMT -5
Thanks Mr.P for your suggestions. It definitely makes sense to use the bowl for the polish stage since there is less abrasion and much easier to coat the outside.
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