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Post by captbob on Nov 28, 2016 14:14:14 GMT -5
I'm finally able to make some time to work on the DP-24 saw that I bought a few months ago. MUCH cleaner now!  Out pressure washing and cleaning the hood today - muriatic acid takes that dried on concrete that the pressure washer didn't get right off! Anyway, I'm wanting to repaint the hood. The folks that had it before didn't treat it too nicely, so there is rust and a lot of chipped (flaked off) paint now. May do the entire saw, time will tell. Gotta see how involved it would be. I am thinking about loading the hood in my truck and seeing what my nearby auto body / painting shop will charge for a "real" paint job. But, I'm guessing that they are gonna ask more than I care to spend on just making this thing pretty again. So, I'm wondering how folks here that have refurbished big saws paint 'em. Figure that I can strip the paint off the hood easily enough. Easy, just time consuming. Then prime and paint? With a sprayer like you paint a house with? I have no idea if such a sprayer can do as good a job as I would like to end up with. I would like a quality paint job on it, don't want it looking like a hobby shop job. Can I do that here at home? Or should I strip the paint and then take it to the auto paint shop and let the professionals paint (and bake) it? Thanks for any advice and suggestions!] |
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Post by Jugglerguy on Nov 28, 2016 14:31:03 GMT -5
Maize.
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 28, 2016 15:36:22 GMT -5
Hopefully it isn't powder coated. A good equipment paint I like is tractor/Equipment enamel from a tractor supply. I order through Tractor Parts ASAP with hardener. The hardener makes it dry faster and glossier. Also fades less. If you thin it a little with Acetone, add a little hardener it applies easily with a cheap gravity feed spray gun from Harbor Freight (around $10-$15). You need about 50 lbs. air pressure. Instructions on can for spraying with airless sprayer but never tried it. I sprayed an old tractor with my old syphon feed gun and it came out nice enough but with a little orange peel. I switched to gravity feed gun because it sprays well in more positions and was hoping for orange peel on my aluminum saw castings. Of course when I wanted orange peel it came out dead smooth. The most professional looking equipment paint in my opinion is the "Hammertone" or hammered finish paints. Hard to get in CA in gallons or quarts. Most automotive paints can not be shipped to CA. Nice thing about rock saws is they only have to look good for initial pictures.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Nov 28, 2016 15:41:36 GMT -5
If it is pitted with rust I would sand blast those areas before priming it.
Larry C.
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Post by captbob on Nov 28, 2016 16:49:51 GMT -5
Not powder coated. Just put it in the back of my truck and took it up to Maaco for an estimate just to see. Yeah, I know ... Maaco - I sure wouldn't let them paint my truck, but this is "just" a rock saw. 400 bucks to do as is. That means they sand, prime, paint, bake and clear coat (bake again?) hmmm... still kinda pricey I'm thinking. 300 and I'd be thinking seriously about it, save me having to sand it is worth something to me. I could probably sand it down, prime it and paint with a hammertone paint for half that, but that means I spend a week sanding the thing. MY auto painting place guessed $1200 over the phone... *snort* Not sure they understood what I was talking about. But they are the best place in town. Parking lot full of BMWs & Porsches kinda place. Don't need that good!! Wonder what my go to powder coat guy would charge...  Hey John, johnjsgems , thank you for all that information! You don't by chance know the paint code for these big saws do you? Rob... maize - you're funny! pffffft  Any thoughts on how much more I could get for this saw if it's fixed up NICE vs how it would be not painted? At the moment, I'm thinking about prettying it up, putting on a lapidary blade (vs the concrete one that I got with it) and changing out that 220 5 HP motor. ETA: Wonder what it would look like sprayed with that bed liner stuff. They (place over in Tampa) do colors now... Thing would never need painting again! |
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Post by Garage Rocker on Nov 28, 2016 16:55:45 GMT -5
Sorry about that break Saturday. Impartial observer and I think your team got jobbed on that last 4th down call. No experience painting saws. It does seem that they don't stay pretty for long though. May not be worth the effort and $$ unless you are definitely selling. Then, maybe still... |
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Post by captbob on Nov 28, 2016 17:49:19 GMT -5
No experience painting saws. It does seem that they don't stay pretty for long though. May not be worth the effort and $$ unless you are definitely selling. Then, maybe still... This saw goes for over 8k new, and I picked it up for less than 800 bucks. So I figure spending a reasonable amount fixing it up some is worth the time and money. It was previously owned by the DOT used for cutting concrete core samples. Being it didn't really belong to someone that took care of it, it needs some cosmetic overhauling whether I decide to keep it myself (I already have a 24" HP saw) or sell it. Heck, I may end up keeping it and selling the HP. Depends on whether I can talk myself into moving the HP out of the shed in the back yard and swapping out the saws. Moving a saw like this is around my house is a major undertaking. Probably end up selling this blue one just so I don't have to move saws! Plus this gives me something to do! I enjoy refurbishing old/used lapidary equipment. That Raytech 10" saw I bought for a song off craigslist last month is presently at my powder coating guy. I've gotta fix stuff! |
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Nov 28, 2016 17:56:46 GMT -5
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Post by Garage Rocker on Nov 28, 2016 18:08:10 GMT -5
No experience painting saws. It does seem that they don't stay pretty for long though. May not be worth the effort and $$ unless you are definitely selling. Then, maybe still... This saw goes for over 8k new, and I picked it up for less than 800 bucks. So I figure spending a reasonable amount fixing it up some is worth the time and money. It was previously owned by the DOT used for cutting concrete core samples. Being it didn't really belong to someone that took care of it, it needs some cosmetic overhauling whether I decide to keep it myself (I already have a 24" HP saw) or sell it. Heck, I may end up keeping it and selling the HP. Depends on whether I can talk myself into moving the HP out of the shed in the back yard and swapping out the saws. Moving a saw like this is around my house is a major undertaking. Probably end up selling this blue one just so I don't have to move saws! Plus this gives me something to do! I enjoy refurbishing old/used lapidary equipment. That Raytech 10" saw I bought for a song off craigslist last month is presently at my powder coating guy. I've gotta fix stuff! Gotta love first world problems. Sounds like it's win/win for you. |
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Post by Peruano on Nov 28, 2016 18:27:54 GMT -5
I'd avoid bed liner like the plague. It is rough and would be a trap for every bit of dust, oil, grit, and air borne garbage, and impossible to clean. Its okay for hiding blems, but you are wanting to remove blems, not mask them or "highlight" them. I would paint it with satin or flat paint. Shiney will just not look shiney with that patina of oil film, rock dust etc. mentioned above. You want something you can wipe off and keep clean to a certain extent. Just thinking.
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panamark
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2012
Posts: 1,343
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Post by panamark on Nov 28, 2016 18:52:55 GMT -5
Bob, I used rustoleum hammered paint for my rebuild, applied carefully with a brush. After a couple years of hard use it is still doing EXCELLENT! Very durable! You can see how it came out at the thread (picture on 4th page): forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/61189/more-progress-highland-park-rebuildOnly use maize color if you never have to be accurate measuring anything. We got hosed several times by the ref's, but we should have put it away anyway. |
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Post by captbob on Nov 28, 2016 19:15:19 GMT -5
That's one sweet rebuild Mark! Kudos on sticking with your project and doing it right.
I have used the hammertone paint on a few of my grinder/polishing machine projects and I think they turned out nicely.
Gonna sleep on how I want to move forward here and just how "like new" I want this thing to look. Figure I can spend a couple thousand, counting a new blade and motor, and still get my money back out of this should I sell it. Just not my nature to leave it in it's present condition.
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Post by johnjsgems on Nov 28, 2016 19:18:55 GMT -5
Hammered finish hides a lot of minor imperfections. You could try calling DP for a paint code. They likely paint them in house.
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Post by captbob on Nov 28, 2016 19:22:03 GMT -5
Thanks John. Kinda figured I would have to give them a call. Need to put together my parts list that I want to order from them and maybe they will be more open to sharing the paint code.
Will be in touch with you when I get to the new blade purchase.
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mikeinsjc
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2010
Posts: 329
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Post by mikeinsjc on Nov 28, 2016 19:58:15 GMT -5
captbob, I have two 18" Highland Parks and I had the tops powder coated, and just rattle-canned the rest.
Cost me $100 per lid to get sand blasted and powder coated. Can't recommend this enough, as the tops get all the abuse. Plus they wipe clean much easier.
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Post by captbob on Nov 28, 2016 20:20:47 GMT -5
100 bucks = wow, thanks Mike! I'll run this by my powder coating guy tomorrow and see what he says. He's thrilled to be getting the business and I believe intrigued by the lapidary equipment.
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Post by captbob on Nov 29, 2016 10:54:42 GMT -5
Well it's gonna be 250 not 100. But for them to sand, prime and powder coat with an exact matching color ... SOLD! Just saved me a buttload of work were I to sand it myself. All I have to do is remove the window in the top.  |
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mikeinsjc
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2010
Posts: 329
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Post by mikeinsjc on Nov 29, 2016 13:16:16 GMT -5
Still money well spent. Guarantee you will be glad you did it.
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Post by Peruano on Nov 29, 2016 16:49:12 GMT -5
Ask me why I knew you wanted it smooth not rough. My home made top is a black lexan sheet on top with galvanized sheet metal sides. A quick swipe of a towel on the lexan removes the oil and renews the shine. Powder will be nice as well.
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Post by captbob on Nov 29, 2016 21:52:41 GMT -5
Why I needed to do something with the hood. Rode hard and put away wet by previous owner. NOT how I roll. (pictured upside down - in case the pic doesn't make sense to some)  |
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